hotwire

Over advanced ign timing (even by a little) will cause pre ignition. So check/get it checked. It is NOT at all good for an engine to pre ignite. Pinging does sound like a rattle when engine is under load at lower speed. 98 is the best fuel for it, certainly not too high. Av gas makes them even better at around 105 ish octain

^^^ Get it checked by a radiator repairer. No point in replacing on a whim.

Has yours got the conventional distributor? If so - check the ign timing. Depending how much was taken off the head may be the cause. Also, don't run it on 91, 95 at least, 98 best.

Sorry, I agree. As much as I like angel eyes on BMW's, to me the E36 lamp just doesn't lend itself to them. Each to their own though

Was the radiator flushed/checked for blockage? Common denominator to what sequence you have described is the fan hub - both are different to the original (to which you said had no issue) Replace it with a new one! To confirm gauge accuracy - you need to confirm whether the coolant is infact hot - what temp is it getting to when the gauge reads high?

I have used Youshop a few times now from both USA & UK. Mostly good service. Had an issue with a package from the US, they charged me nearly $100 more than I had calculated for the package size. Several terse emails from me questioning there calculations, I eventually paid the fee with the intention of a battle when i received it. Duly arrived - the box in a much bigger box filled with polystyrene pellets (as I had suspected). Photos of & another terse message, questioning their claims to offer repackaging & why didn't they do it on this occasion - as I had asked. A phone call was returned to me, acknowledging the situation & a credit was made for the difference. Had a part arrive from the UK last week, was charged $4 fee for repackaging. I politely queried the cost, they replied saying they had repackaged it to condense it. Gave me the original dimensions v new package. It arrived in its original box with their bubble wrap, so the system does infact work sometimes. As far as their costs - in comparison to most US suppliers, I find them reasonable.

Adding to, the early type is a pain in the arse as it has the bigger yoke. The later reduction drive version is much more compact & easy to do.

+1

Yep - exactly as I said but in different terminology Again though - he said there was no ign supply TO the coil (mistakingly diagnosed as it turned out) hence us at the time suggesting that being the issue. Without that supply, nothing will work, DME included. It has since transpired that there is infact power to the coil, so now yes - other factors - CPS etc come into the equation.

Na not mine. It was an AA job that I went out to. No drive at all so I had to organise recovery on a truck to the workshop. Yep, will be next week before it even gets looked at to evaluate. Owner is back in Auckland with another car - he's not in a hurry for it. Happy if its not looked at until the new year. Will be interesting to see how many AA call outs i get tomorrow, last year was 5

But Andy, he said there was no power supply to the coil, this comes straight from the ign switch. Certainly there will be no low tension switching from the DME without a CPS signal to it

Great result. Bet you're glad you didn't take the first "mechanics" advice.

Just organised an AA recovery of an E39 today. Dropped its trans fluid & lost drive. Going to be an interesting inspection on the hoist next week...

Arseholes! Good luck (seriously) on getting them back - they do stand out. Pretty glad I live where i do, very unusual for this sort of thing around here. I am quite blase with things at times too

Andy, yes the one speak of is on the Motronic engine & yes does have a retaining clip as it does sit very close to the fan. Mine, although facelift Motronic originally, for Race series rules on pistons, I have converted the engine to L jet, & so as having no distributor on the front of the cam now, I had fitted the Ljet hose which takes a direct path down the front of the engine rather than the Motronic that wound its way around the distributor. This Ljet hose was the one that burst. Are you replacing the complete hose set - main, heater, bypass? There are 7 hoses from memory

Yep, no idea why the Japs don't think to put oil/coolant check lights in - they are a saviour. The gauge is as good as useless in this situation (unless you catch it on its mommontary rise before dropping off) Ironically the same hose I had blow, it caught me out big time as it had only been off a couple of weeks before & I judged it as good condition - looked/felt perfect, it was infact rotton as it proved. Bear in mind most of these hoses are 20+ yrs old now. Have just replaced every coolant hose with new.

Just a "split coolant hose" isn't anything to shrug off. You were indeed fortunate. I frequently go to overheat call outs where a hose has split, & often with fatal consequences, some get out of jail if they have been observant. This usually on Jap vehicles where there no low coolant warning systems. Euro cars - most, have been equipped with such for years. Depending on which hose, & how it splits, the coolant can be lost VERY quickly, i had this happen on my race car & by the time I noticed the light, it was almost empty. This hose had looked to be in good condition, yet gave way big time. I suggest you carefully check ALL coolant hoses, if in doubt - replace!

Have steam cleaned/water blasted many engines/bays of all models over the years without issue, except for water ingress into distributors - an easy fix. A little bit of common sense is all that is required...

The load sensing lamps i fitted on our car don't strobe, haven't turned the cold checks off either. That said, I have noticed when following at night the LED boot spoiler does - must remember to turn it off. Strange that you had to upgrade the LCM, i can code them all on or off in our 99 car.

Yep, exactly what I found. Not often that can be said. That said, bloody kids (not ours) managed to break that one too

^^^^^^ Well not in the wiring insulation, nor generally in potentially dangerous places (that I have come across) but seat bolsters, dash trims, cup holders & all the other bits that break, & probably the good old plastic impeller water pump. Then have the cheek to charge arms & legs to replace the said components.... No Euro manufacturer immune from the problem.

^^^^ Ahhh Mercedes & their recycled plastics again no doubt. Using them in the wrong places.

Ken, you need to confirm if they are load sensing - replicate the original bulb current. If so - they will be fine

Hence my statement of getting it diagnosed properly. The times i have seen MAF & 02 sensors replaced by people because of codes recorded, only to later find a mechanical issue has put them outside their parameters. Sounds like they may be out of their depth to come up with the statement you quote. I would say it is quite likely vacuum issue.

Get the mechanic to diagnose it properly. It sounds a very random statement to be stating that an 02 is suspect. An 02 sensor out is not going to cause the issue you allude to. The car needs scanning properly & monitoring live data to correctly diagnose.