hotwire

Yup - forgot! Duh That said - you could prolly cut the auto one down

Does the warning light come on with key & off when running? Has the alternator got power on the main lead going to it? It only requires these (& obviously earth circuit) for it to operate. Assuming that wiring in order - it will be the alt If the engine is cranking ok - it won't be an earth issue to the engine

Jon was simply meaning that he has an auto pedal box. Manual/auto are the same but for the auto obviously having no clutch pedal & the pivot bolt is shorter to suit. You can change the auto box to manual by simply adding the clutch pedal & the the longer bolt to accomodate it. Therein still lies the problem - getting hold of a clutch pedal. This is why most sell (as I always have) as a complete conversion - to eliminate this problem.

Were running @ around 36 - 37, although sometimes a little lower when failing to check I run them @ 38 now Suspension geometry is fine. As I have mentioned in another previous thread - on the rears I went to a cough... Chinese Tyre, (against my normal priciples) asymetric & a higher silica content. They have been on over two years (about 30k) & still @ about 40% wear left. Very minimal inside wear. Admittedly not a real performance tyre but the car is not driven as a race car & they are actually quite adequate. Not ovely hard as many Chinese are.

Tim, I have had Toyo Proxi 4 (in 18'') on our E39 & gone away from. Their durability on the rear is not good, the sidewalls would appear to be too soft & causes premature wear on inside. I had 3 sets of rears on (doing around 15k each time) before finally getting pissed off & changing. They are still running on the front & are ok there.

Yup, the kidney's are the same, the F/L's outers are the same as pre but for a cutout in the top to allow access to park light bulb

The chip must still be in the key or the car wouldn't run, unless it has been removed & fitted in the column by the switch. The chip talks to the EWS to allow the car to start. Munted key - a couple of other options 1: get a replacement blank key, get it cut to suit & transfer the internals - cheap option. I did this for one of our keys that had munted bttons. I got one in from the UK but I see someone now has them on TM 2: You don't have to get the full remote key, you can get a service key which has the chip but no remote function, from memory - less than half the price. You really need a spare anyway as without the correct chipped key - the car is usless - a 10 day delay from Germany. The cars were originally supplied with 4 keys - two mains, a service & a valet - I got all 4

Yep, expected it to be as you have said. They will have spent zillions on R&D & catered for all variables. - I would expect:-

Could be embarrasing - starting the car at every intersection - would sound to everybody else like you stalled it Pain in the arse too if you've got a F##ked battery & want to keep the car going - can it be overidden?

Wish I hadn't looked at the link, my eyes hurt now....

Make sure you don't sell your spares Jon

^^^^ Don't split it - they are always more saleable as a "complete" conversion... otherwise there is always someone chasing certain bits - as above

You won't regret the upgrade - believe me

Oooooohhhh I detect a hint of sarcasm Me, after one whole race - I'm liking Button

Girls? What's the diff - pointy bits at the front?

Seriously doubt you will get a 4:3 cheaper, adding to - there is daylight between them. I upgraded mine a few years back & would not go back. As I mentioned earlier - you can add reverse camera & nav if wished

I thought Ray was offering you a 16:9 upgrade for a good price - go that way - both units are plug play replacement for the 4:3

I've got this for a garage door opener - OEM option from the US Need to check the frequency your garage door is the same as this unit. I can't remember the two frequencies offhand (300... & 400...) but I understand the US generally use the opposite to us. Just so happened that our door was the same as the US spec unit so was all good

That's a good idea Dave. I have had mine plastic welded too, twice infact but the second fix has held well. The side cover is generic & also fits E38's which have more seat controls - lumber support etc, which is what the blank is for. These are a crap plastic component, as with a lot of the BMW plastics - my understanding the recycled componentry requirements in Europe

^^^^^ ha was just thinking that myself

Certaily better but still not overly good. Should suffice for WOF ok. Shite I see some shocker lights on cars at work that shouldn't have a WOF but do. Maybe keep an eye out for good S/H ones that someone has upgraded

Sounds like time to get it professionally checked as you are prolly just plucking staws with this

Two of Dans & yours

^^^^ Nail on head Jon!

HB Paul, & I was about to say the same as dave