hotwire

F/L yes but as above - the PF/L auto cars had taller diffs. Can't remember exactly off hand but I think around 2700 ish @ 100km/h

It will be a short in the R/H circuit somewhere. Look at the extremities first - each end. I would suspect more likely front

HB Greg, have a great day

Don't power what - the aerial amplifier? This is not the reason I am referring to. The OEM radio runs a diversity aerial system, of which the aftermarket radio's don't. This can lead to weak reception in weak areas. Doubt it would be noticed in city areas. If you don't believe me - PM Jochen & ask him, or search this forum. There will be NO ONE around that is more knowledgable than him on the subject. Period! If you are referring to, as I assume, not powering the aerial amplifier, then yes I agree with that. Reception would be absolute crap. What model vehicles are you referring to? I assume E36. They have a much more simplistic system to E39,46 etc

Crack up

You weren't following F1 when they were V10 Jack? Absolutely insane sound they made, never been as good since

That's strange, takes about 5 mins max to remove the OEM radio in an E46 - ease off the two dash mouldings & the radio is secured with two screws. Each to their own on the style, I prefer the more subtle OEM look, besides running aftermarket radios hinders the radio reception due to aerial system incompatibilities where reception becomes a comprimise. Obviously this doesn't concern those who don't use the radio to a great extent. The radio housings are DIN but the front facia panel is specific size/shape - as is the E39. I stand corrected, I thought they all had a separate amp. Be aware of running too much bigger amp - the speakers are a fairly nominal rating.

Did, I was being sarcky too

Great photograghy That 1M certainly dwarfs the 3's Love the 5'th pic - BMW's ruling the road

Don't quote me but I would think the car will be prewired for fog. Check for spare wiring/plugs in the vicinity of the headlights. You would probably need to add the relay & the fog light switch (assuming wiring is present)

It will have one - L/H rear corner from memory. Some Tourings came with a factory sub in the R/H rear corner. A fairly mediocre unit though

You really need to make the call. How good is the rest of the car condition wise? Where/how bad is the rust? Have you had a second opinion? Screen, light etc is not really an issue - those things apply to any car. Gearbox not an issue if you have a replacement already. What else is likely WOF wise? Maybe get the car appraised before you go about fixing. If the car is still good overall then maybe it's worth spending on (depending on that cost). Remember - virtually any car will cost you repairs/depreciation during ownership

^^^^^ Don't give a F##k, silly And... can't you read Ashkan? - Jon explained - it's an ACRONYM & NOT an abbreviation!!!

Just go with whatever the part number from the appropriate supplier is. There is only one version rear pad used though E30's

What year is the car? Pre facelift >2000, the lights are easily dismantled (lens simply clips on/off) Facelift cars require heating to soften the sealer to separate. If they are as bad as what you say then probably replacement is the best option

From symptoms it sounds like the FSR (plug play replace) rather than the fan motor (unlikely). You are only guessing though - best get it checked to confirm as you may find you spend money unecessarily on the wrong part.

Don't dispute what you are saying Ron but... In my case - not running a "hard tyre" but certainly harder than the Toyo Less static neg camber will still alter the "total" neg camber under "squat" position, so will make somewhat of a difference. On mine, toe in was fine, squat & body roll was not the cause as the car is mostly driven by "other half" & she hardly pedals the thing. I rarely drive it. These issues were between 25km & about 70Km so worn components was NOT an issue. I do suspect too soft tyre wall though - judging by the strange wear patterns we got on the inside shoulder. In this car I was not interested in uprating all the suspension components, particually when all the OEM content was still quite ok, nor in hindsight did I need to. That said - I fully understand what you say. I also agree - a decent rated tyre will be the go. I am merely pointing out what I have struck. I am not in this case "masking" any failings of the car by fitting "hard" tyres. I was not in the mood either to experiment with $300+ tyres.

Depends also on the tyres you are running. I had Toyo Proxi 4 18's on & wore three pairs of rears to canvas on inside edge before I spat the dumby. I would put a new pair on the front & swap front to rear. Rears were getting no more than 15k/12 months each time. Car has sedate driving too. Had several wheel alignment checks by a mechanic with a brain on his machine, where I even got him to dial out a little neg camber. Still inside wear. Nothing wrong with the car. Got talking to Jonno on here. He confirmed to me (as I suspected) they ( the Toyo's) were a soft compound tyre. He had a new Chinese tyre available (can't remember what it is offhand) with aparently a higher than usual silica content. Against my usual judgement for Chinese tyres (apart from my trailer), I got a pair of these off him & put on the rear. Asymmetric as opposed to directional. This just over two years ago & when I recently looked, they still have 50% wear left right across the tyre. Done about 30k's too. Car is not a race car & not driven like, but they still seem to perform ok. This does prove though - tyre variations will cause this problem. The Toyo's are still on the front & still quite ok in that position. I am not suggesting Chinese tyres as the answer. I fully understand the variables in tyre qualities/perfomance/noise etc but merely pointing out that the higher performance/softer compound tyres are a compromise in wear patterns on the rears of these cars when fitted with low profile tyres.

Just put an alligator clip on each lead & connect into the nav harness wiring plug in the L/H rear corner Red/green = battery, brown = earth, white/grey/yellow dots = ibus

Replaced the munted drivers door on the race car yesterday, machine cut then wax today. Couldn't polish out the dents though - bugger it!!

Can now, they are over 20 yrs old

Welcome, nice car. Forced to leave the M3 behind... what a bugger Would have been nice to see that bought out here

Stunning! Great to see it being looked after like it is

^^^^ That came to my mind too

Looks nice. I do hope, due to their relative rarity now, that you will keep it pretty original or at least subtle tasteful mods