M3AN

I take big metal parts to a steel scrapyard and the rest goes to landfill. If I'm feeling particularly environmentally conscious I'll wash them in a bath of degreaser before chucking them in the trash.

One of the components was fried, sent it away to Christchurch to get fix. Aside from the hit on my wallet it was easy!

So, long time no post. This is a bit of a reminder for me to update: ECU repaired Fuse box replaced (PITA) Injectors being serviced Front bumper repainted (new fixtures arrived for fitting) New fuel filter to go in Replace windscreen washer pump and level sensor (new parts arrived) Swap alu radiator from the 328 into M3 (new OEM rad for 328 has arrived) Some work to do...

No, I just got mints... don't think they're German though, Danish perhaps? But I get what you mean - when i was living in the Netherlands I got heaps of stuff from Germany and they always came with Haribo gummy bears.

Received these both today. Ordered a few mins apart from FCP and Schmiedmann and delivered at exactly the same time, two courier vans in the driveway together! Big one is a radiator which will be going into the 328 and the alu one in the 328 will go into the M3. Smaller package is all the fittings I need to reassemble the bumper onto the M3 (edit: and a fuel filter hence the long box).

That's what my old man kept telling me about girls... I suppose it did happen eventually... I hope Graham doesn't have to wait that long!

No, come on guys, do the mechanical engineering analysis 101, duh! Anybody making even a casual scientific observation (or having a rational state of mind) would realise that in real-world applications it DOESN'T MAKE A F'ING DIFFERENCE. Sigh.

That's a "guibo". It's absolutely not a "universal joint" (aka a "constant velocity (CV) joint"). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint

Different things... the "guibo" is #1 in that diagram, the uni is the (unnumbered) coupling in the prop shaft.

I also assumed they were all the same and most seem to be 12mm which is obviously enough for most applications. Why BMW/MINI went for 14mm is beyond me. Any normal person could make this grievous error I'm sure. I'd still rather spend the $ on the studs than a machine shop.

Okay Bill.

#2 is the only viable option for the reasons you mention about #1. Apparently a common problem, but also a common fix: https://www.outmotoring.com/mini-cooper/mini-cooper-M14_stud-conversion-kit.html

That is nice work, props. And let's not quote all the pictures folks, way too much downloading and scrolling.

Removed the injectors from the S50 to get them serviced. Bit of a spur of the moment thing (as in, I've been meaning to do it for months and have only just got around to it) and quite the pain in the backside. That fuel rail was on there tight! Three injectors came out with it, 3 remained. Off to Injector Tech in Glenfield tomorrow for a service @ $30 each which isn't too bad.

When you're buying a car like this the tyres are so inconsequential that it's not worth wasting any internet over.

I assume rattle kit on these doesn't mean cam out and re-time like on the S50? If you need to re-time then skip it. As for vendor options and cost, I can only vouch for Beisan because I got my kit from them. The after-sales service was outstanding and Raj (owner) even sent me extra parts that I ended up needed for postage only. He answered all of my questions (I had a hell of a time, see my M3 PLOG) really quickly and was very helpful. But you're right, the cat's out of the bag now on what is required and how to do it so you might save a bunch purchasing elsewhere. But I'll only ever recommend Beisan.

And towbars on M3's... owners manual explicitly states "DO NOT TOW WITH THIS VEHICLE"... :-/

I hear through the grapevine that Instant Finance are looking for a "CIO" (which is actually an IT Manager role given the size and strategic outlook of the company). Apparently not yet advertised... I know nothing about the role or your suitability but it might be worth you reaching out?

^ did that and the answer was 42. Where to from here?

Stainless pfft! Too expensive. Mild steel, for that rusty patina.

I don't think that link really helps with the answer and you might consider using this instead for the lols: http://lmgtfy.com/ To the OP, this is better Google-foo, look at the first link: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=towbar+bolt+strength

Surely you'll need (in cabin) selectable maps, boost ramps and traction control settings to suit different conditions/purposes? I can't see 600hp on a wet NZ motorway working particularly well...

Paint me a sceptic. I don't believe there's any way you can come out ahead (economically speaking) buying a brand new vehicle. Unless you're particularly unlucky you could never spend the equivalent of depreciation on maintenance. Isn't the rule of thumb - 10% as soon as you drive it off the lot, 15% once you've hit 1,000 km's and 20% in the first year? And apparently 50% after 4 years (https://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/news/89145417/new-zealand-has-highest-car-depreciation-rate-in-the-world-says-study). By the time depreciation slows to a reasonable level the warranty has expired and you're paying for maintenance anyway. Maybe I misunderstood some of the previous posts?

Don't forget engine management systems. If you're going to get up to 600hp then a lot of that is going to be as a result of compressed air so you'll need a sophisticated engine management system that has boost management with infinitely variable ramp settings and fine wastegate control. Think about how you're going to manage traction and launch control as well. Water injection should be considered to help eliminate detonation. Intercooler efficiency and auxiliary cooling for that are also worth thinking about, it's going to get real hot under there at these levels and you need to maintain density. I have no idea about the engine itself but I agree with recent comments; make sure all the loaded elements are forged and all the friction elements are coated, use the highest grade fixtures, gaskets and rings available. Can you bore or stroke these? That might actually be a good way to start if you can. However you proceed I'd like to see it.

Yup. I've got the "street" version and they're epic.