M3AN

Man, they don't hold up to use very well do they! Not such good work there BMW.

That was nuts. Awesome, thanks.

The thing hasn't even been on a dyno, and yeah, no manual box. What's the point? Certainly can't claim it's worth $50k when you can even explain why.

Nope... https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2535368753.htm

They shut down sport, then they shut down Radio Sport so now I have Newstalk to listen to during the day which is no substitute. I'm also watching my laptop a lot, up to 7 hours of Zoom a day. And then I'm so f'ing exhausted that I frequently fall asleep on the couch watching nothing at all. I have GB's of TV to catch up on, might start Dev's this weekend.

I agree. Although I did a de-cat in 2003 and it would prick my bum if they chose to pull me up on it now!

I just say accept the above advice. If you're undecided auto/manual then you absolutely need to drive an auto, and in traffic, before you decide. But if you're happy with a 'quick enough' auto then just aim for the be value/options one you can find. Regardless, even manuals can be had for <$10k so don't even consider the crazy priced ones.

And check for oil leaks from the engine or trans sump, $1500 each to replace if you take it to a shop. They all eventually leak, so it's just a matter of knowing and negotiating accordingly.

There are many modules in the e36 that only work via ADS and even more than can only report shadow codes over ADS. You can insist what you like @polley but the rest of the world that have tried have all reached the same conclusion. The debate was finished over a decade ago.

Read through here too: https://www.bimmergeeks.net/ Standard tools and a TinyADS adaptor... I disagree that USB is suitable.

Yeah, the two pieces of software you need are INPA and DIS (actually "EasyDIS" for copies out in the wild). INPA runs natively on Windows, DIS runs in a VM. You also need an ADS cable (search for TinyADS). You'll need a laptop with a genuine RS-232 serial port or a docking station/port replicator with one, a USB adaptor will not work. Win 10 x86/x64 is fine.

Yes, you need to read the code. Any scanner will be able to do that with the ignition set to "on" even if the engine's not actually started. I'm not the right one to recommend a scanner because I use the BMW software on a laptop. Your symptoms were similar to mine in my M52 and mine was a cam position sensor failing.

What's best practice for servicing the box? Just lube changes or more than that?

Well, as you know I have an auto but that was a conscious choice, not a matter of budget or availability. In Auckland, especially on my various regular commutes, a manual just wouldn't suit me. And I have the M3 if I need to shift manually. I used to be a "it must be a manual" guy but I softened on that when I got the auto 328 and the 130 has convinced me that auto's have their place. This box is so good that it's fine for a daily. My opinion would probably be different if I didn't have the M3. The NRW paddles have totally transformed my experience, I can drive it as hard as I want in manual sport mode and I reckon the box is at least as fast as an early 2000's SMGII "manual" box (e46 M3). I'm not here to convince you either way, just to say that the 6 speed auto really does seem quite a good gearbox, it's not detracting from my experience, it's actually making my daily commute more enjoyable. Having said that, manual 130's do pop up from time-to-time at really reasonable prices (sub 9k), there were a few about 4-6 weeks ago so if that's really what you want and you can afford to be patient then I'd say wait. It's worth noting that I do not know if my transmission software has been changed (the engine software has) and once we're out of lockdown I'm keen to try a known stock auto back-to-back with mine. Edit: regardless of what you get, 130's are a bucket of fun and I think everybody here who owns one would concur.

No worries, and yep it holds up fine.

Hey, I did that! ? Going on 5+ years and it still looks like new. ?

Better you than I ? a week later and it would have been me doing it! ?

That's an amazing looking result, nice one.

You have a Alcantara wrapped mirror? ? Anyway, the answer is "easy" it's held in by 4-6 "V" clips (for lack of a better description) and just pops out with a bit of leverage. I used a plastic trim tool but I suspect a credit card and fingernails could do. It is in there tight but comes out fine, the connecting cable is really long so no drama with that.

So, thanks again to @aja540i lending me a 14mm hex I got in there and had a look today... nothing. Basically I could see SFA and what I could see didn't tell me much. What I did see was that the blue (don't know if that means anything) diff fluid was bright and really clean (it looked brand new). Looks like it'll be diff cover off to tell the full story. No rush on my part.

A little bit more faux Alcantara... quite good I think and now matches the rest.

It get's pretty gross under there eh!?

I replaced the "fuel filler pot" today to fix the busted hinge (common problem). It wasn't too hard following a DIY but there are some stages that require a lot of force. All good now although it does close with a ferocious snap!

Seriously, Amazon are amazing. My package arrived one day late which I consider pretty good under the circumstances so I thought nothing of it... then I received this email from Amazon.

I've corrected my post above, you'll only need one resonator, it will go between the Y-pipe and the muffler, where the heat shield is. But get the Y-pipe sorted at the same time regardless.