nick496

Oh Gosh, this old chestnut. Do you have this in writing that the cert isn't required from NZTA and LVVTA? LVVTA website: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/knowledge_base.html "Does an auto to manual gearbox conversion require certification? Yes, all gearbox conversions require certification as the braking system has usually been affected with alteration or modification to the brake pedal-box." Here's where it can come down to interpretation: Good old NZTA guidelines, as you say, proving it's all OE. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/miscellaneous-items/engine-and-transmission?fbclid=IwAR2-FTQGwnolB46UxVLJzpvmfvM4GcOm8R2muIhXQ_lnAQ-eapQKIpetT44#tab2 However, good old LVVTA interpret OE as OE to the vehicle in question. https://www.facebook.com/LVVTA/posts/does-my-auto-to-manual-conversion-require-cert-even-if-im-using-oem-componentsth/2381117905319025/ It has been discussed a few times, and to take a clear example from the comments: In summary, yes LVVTA say you need a cert for your manual conversion. Will you fail a wof on it? Probably not if you've actually done it well. What will insurance say in event of an incident? Well that will be fun for someone to figure out, because LVVTA say it needs a cert.

Eagle is right. You probably don't want to mess with your ratio with the little m40b16. You could go to a 4.1 which is what the m40b18s run. Lsds are getting expensive these days, and if you're wanting to do a swap, you'd be looking most likely at a medium case of some ratio. Though you'll see in the link below the m42 e30s ran a 4.1 small from the factory. I run a 3.64 behind my m52 swap with a getrag 240. https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Differential

The Leaf's kwH/100KMs is that I've calculated mine out to be based off a few charges, so the results of that are fairly accurate for my use. The Outlander dealer site says Dealer site say 7.4l/100km, electricity at 16.9kwh/100km, so I've just inflated those numbers slightly. I purchased it looking to save 2k a year in fuel, and more in maintenance for the next 2 years. Countering against it devaluing to next to nothing over the next 5 years assuming the battery degrades to below 50kms of range. So it should save me a little bit of money over all, but probably won't have been the case if it was 10k+ Total emission calculations really are a mixed bag, as it requires drawing a lot of data from a bunch of places who aren't particularly forthcoming about providing such data. I'd say that for everyone, you might as well drive your current vehicle until you want to replace it, and then see what has come to market.

I've recently purchased a second hand leaf, mostly because the cost of it was so low (4 figures), and it meets 90% of my driving requirements. (E30 suits the longer distances funnily enough) But they do seem to have gone up in price with that clean car discount, which is achieving it's true goal of driving more initial interest in purchasing a new EV. Which is ok as a short term strategy, but debatable long term, as I feel that simply continuing to hike fuel prices would be the easy way to force people into more efficient vehicles, or public transport. In terms of running costs, there's no question that EVs are currently super cheap to run. However it really depends on what the government decide to do once the RUC exemption expires in 2024, and if they'll charge them at the standard RUC rate, or come up with another scheme. After that I'd guess that having a Hybrid would probably still be the vehicle of choice as a single vehicle. But I imagine there will continue to be a large number of enthusiast who will hold onto their vehicle(s) of choice I put together a wee calculator based off some claimed economy figures from fuelly to play around with to justify the purchase of a third car.

I'm running the e28 round motor mounts, with a barina steering shaft.

Is the vibration on the steering column happening on idle? On Straights? Or only on certain corners? I had an issue with mine, which turned out the be the engine moving on tight corners on the track, causing the exhaust to touch the steering shaft. Ended up getting the headers modified to be a bit further away, and it's been fine since.

After a 188mm 3.23/3.25 ring and pinion for a future project. Ideally in an complete e30 medium case housing, but will see what comes up.

I think the underdash panels are pretty well received. Not sure about the mtech kits stuff though, you would probably be best to have a search on the E30 Enthusiasts Australia facebook group.

You know what, as an around town car, ideal. It's actually covered 90% of my driving requirements. Back to BMWs, as other have said, the E46 reds like to peel. I'd probably avoid the 320i, but you know what, the M43 powered 318i's aren't too bad.

It really depends on what was used for the 220 manual swap The E36 flywheels are dual mass, however you can use either -The 318 flywheel -The 32x flywheel. If you don't know what you currently have as a starting point, that will be difficult to recommend.

Based on what current cars are selling for, I'd say 6-7k is on the money providing it doesn't have terminal rust. https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Rust Heck, I know a few people who'd jump on it at 6k

Even off the road. One of my mates neighbours was attempting to do skids in his front paddock with his ute in the weekend.

But on the positive side, they're sports seats and don't have rips in the middle of them.

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/general-technical/168215-instructrion-of-how-to-remove-dash-hvac-heater-face-plate-etc Looks like you're up to step 6 to remove that box. You'll need to remove the panel in the engine bay, and there are 4 nuts you need to remove which will free up the box.

Yeah, I have tried to squeeze a viscous fan on my m52 swap, and would have had 2mm clearance with the radiator, and was concerned that under heavy braking on the track that they'd end up touching. Install would have involved removing the radiator, installing the fan, and then reinstalling the radiator. Some people have somehow made it work. But I, like most, have a 16in electric pusher fan on the radiator which works well.

I've found if you can get a pot large enough to sit an end in, and put that on the boil, and add washing powder will do a great job.

In the E30 you could get cruise control in the manuals. Very rare over here, but some cars internationally had it fitted.

You'll definitely want to replace the seals on the heater box which go to the firewall, and also the one on top that goes to the dash. Ah, so you snapped up the cruise control. I'd finally finished my tour around the south island, and figured cruise control would be a great thing to have.

Hawk HPS pads are good for spirited street driving. I think 16's are the right size, but it's really a personal preference thing. Hmmm, the whirring is probably it attempting to engage the ac pump? (so something wrong with the system) Or does the sound occur if you have the fan on low speed as well? (in which case, it's probably the fan rubbing on something) Coilovers I'd suggest driving some others to see if you can find a setup that you like, and then attempt to copy that directly. I have moved to an H&R setup with Bilstein's, which I find the sweet spot for me, but some people are fine with even stiffer springs. The race series guys are correct, and the stock brakes are fine. I think even the E30 series in Aus runs stock brakes, and they run 325i's. I've personally found them to be fine when I take mine out on the track with race pads and race fluid, though I start getting inconsistent after about 4-5 laps, which is likely just a me and my poor driving. That said, for that purpose I'm looking at upgrading the fronts to a larger disc for the heat, but staying 4 stud.

I recently redid my insurance on my 24V touring up to 25k, given there have been a number of decent looking cars around the 18k mark. And as above, a look of people wanting 10-15k for their 320i sedans, or 15-20k for 325i's autos.

My advise is to think about what you want to achieve with the car, be it a certain look, or performance goal. Then choose what wheels and size tyres you want to run, and go from there. You should also take note of what your current cert plate states in terms of maintaining legality for insurance purposes, but if you're considering coilovers and a 5stud, then you'd be looking to recert anyway. - Retrofit AC --This is quite an involved processes, and requires a heater core swap from an AC equipped car, along with some extra wiring. - Coilovers vs spring/shocks -- I think coilovers are great if you're wanting to achieve a specific ride height or are tracking it, otherwise springs/shocks are the way to go - 5 stud conversion -- You can get the caster right if you use the E36 M3 Evo arms up the front, but my understanding is that some of the other parts for the swap you can no longer buy new. -- And I believe it's with the non M3 options that have issues with getting the caster correct. -- Still recommend you figure out your final goals for the car first.

Yeah, you won't end up with too many spares from that kit. Most likely -Engine Coolant Recovery Tank -Engine Coolant Recovery Tank Hose I've tried to fit in the viscous fan, but even with the thinner E36 rad I would only have had a few mm of clearance.

The oil cap looks standard for one that hasn't been replaced. Probably best to get a leak down test done before you throw a new rad in there. In terms of radiators, since you've got a fl expansion tank, you should be able to run a 6 cylinder rad off an e36. Most common upgrade is the e36 Z3M radiator which is a bit thicker, though if your swap somehow has a viscous fan that might case fitment issues. In terms of hoses, I think I used e36 stuff for everything but the heater core pipes, and the overflow bottle, which I think are stock e30 ones, or a mixture.

I use DTC-60's on my car when I take it to the track, then swap back to street pads. Fluid is definitely a must as well. Setup seems to perform well enough, though rotors definitely take a beating.

Yeah, I saw those ones go up for sale, and wondered how much a new set would be. And 3k isn't too bad, though you'll also need to throw in centre caps and tyres. But at least they won't need to be refurbished.