nick496

Ah, it looks like Schmiedmann have some in stock again. Otherwise Coombes https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/heater-radiator-pg662-catn-ol

Normally one of the following. I'm pretty sure they're a bit more active on Facebook. And you'll certainly find these guys if you hunt on the e30 pages. Andy down in Wellington Jon B Nick Weitz (Weitz industries) Brent (BM World) I'm not sure if Ray from Hell BM still dabbles in e30s. As for the heater core, I think you would be better off buying new, otherwise getting yours repaired would be a better bet than second hand.

My aluminium one has lasted well. However I've struggled with making gaskets for it, but that's more likely a me thing.

There are a few 318ti's that are 2000 registered. My one was a great wee runabout

The 318i swapped to an n series motor.

My e30 bar is not symmetrical, and the wee hump is likely clearance for the muffler.

Probably the next steps would be spark plugs, and checking over the cooling system.

Yeah, I'd go with Jon's advise on testing where the leak is coming from. I'd add to his notes, that it's worth removing the center console, and glovebox, and putting down some towels to try catch whatever comes out Hopefully it's just a dribble, and you don't end up with something like so

So the best advise is that it all comes down to the individual certifier. Most places will be fine with your manual swap, though some might want driveshaft hoops if the driveshaft has been modified. The steering rack swap, you'll likely be looking at a bump steer test, and depending on the linkage, they may not like that if the universal joints are out of phase. Never had any issues with the steering lines, but brake lines they can be picky on. You could try getting around the bump steer test by contacting LVVTA and seeing if they have records of other e30's with the rack swap that have passed cert with that setup, to then pass onto your certifier, but chance are your exact setup has never been done, so they'll want it done anyway. (Disclaimer, I have not tried this)

Only if you don't like the colour I suppose. Otherwise it's 5k more for something more original. https://www.trademe.co.nz/3380150900 Or if you'd rather just have an convertible m3 for those rear seats, https://www.trademe.co.nz/3419345667 But it looks to be sitting about right compared to what E46 M3s are currently asking.

I think it depends on if you're looking to replace an aging car anyway, because you will take a while to realise any savings if you have to purchase a newer (and likely more expensive) car. 2 Cars seems to be the way to go if you have space. But if you're locked down to a single car a hybrid if you do mostly around town and a few long distance, or a diesel if your commute is long enough to actually warm it up each day.

Ended up getting a leaf, and it's the perfect around town vehicle for me. E30 for out of town weekend trips (if its not on stands). Went and had a look at hybrids with a mate the other week, as he wants something that can go the distance. The most interesting one we looked at was a Nissan note. https://www.trademe.co.nz/3199079352 Which was basically a leaf power train, but instead of having a battery, it had a 3 cylinder petrol producing electricity for the electric motor to drive the wheels.

Just the panel is rusting again. After getting all the rust removed. I would suggest glancing your eye down the cassette tray when you've pulled the sunroof out to see if there is anything there. Mine seems to be fine.

Or actually rust free. Split my sunroof, got it acid dipped, and painted 2 years ago, it's already rusting between the 2 sheets again, as well as on the tabs. And this is on a car that spends most of its life in a garage. Not sure if I'll bother to go through the process again, something like this is probably the way to go. https://www.highline-motorsports.com/product-page/e30-sunroof

The official requirements are here: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf Basically, if you've only done a manual swap, and used factory parts for it, you shouldn't require driveshaft hoops. "Interchangeable drive-shafts: In the case of a vehicle which has had a bolt-in OEM (original equipment manufacturer) model variant engine or transmission conversion, or a bolt-in OEM model variant turbocharger/supercharger addition, a driveshaft safety-loop is not required provided that documented proof is provided by the vehicle manufacturer or their agent, verifying that all drive-shaft components are identical between the two vehicles, and that the drive-shaft remains unmodified."

Depends on the E30 Would need to put a mattress down in the touring, as there is a rear bar right where my back curves, which doesn't make for a comfortable sleep.

Yeah, I don't know if it's any more cost effective if you're not doing the work yourself. The difference being that at least you know that the gaskets etc have been refreshed while you've done the swap. The struggle is of course at the moment finding a decent example of a 2 door, 318 auto or 325i manual.

It's easy enough to draw the line in the sand about if you need to certify it or not That will determine if you do it before the cert or after.

I did the swap myself in my E30 about 5 years ago, and it cost me around 6k including the cert. Mine was manual to begin with. Prices these days for most of the parts have gone up, so ballparking maybe 10? Don't forget the exhaust. If you're not handy with a welder, that can get pricey.

Dunno if this link will work, but found some racaros for sale: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/147078040937173/

It's a Sparco Evo II. But it's a fixed back, so probably won't be what you're after anyway? Are you just after some more fabric in your bolsters? Yes, well it depends on if you think you'll be able to travel further before Christmas and if you want comfier seats before then.

I've got a sparco seat that I drive down to Taupo with in my e30. I actually find it pretty comfortable for the 2 and a bit hours, as I fit in there nice and snuggly. It's just the getting out at the end of the trip haha. Maybe take advantage of the lack of traffic and go for a drive to see if they really are uncomfortable after a couple of hours?

Shh you I painted my wheels a Honda colour too, NH583M, and they look ok. They don't seem particular close to 30 year old basket weave silver, but they are indeed a silver colour.

Yeah, that's closer to the price I paid recently to get my wheels dipped at Advanced Chrome Platers. They also spun up the wheels, and found 2 of them weren't quite round, and fixed that as well.

@E28E30I believe it was. Here's a very old thread of it for sale back in 2011: Note the panels are all the same shade of red, all the factory options are still there. Classic wee car.