nick496

My e30 bar is not symmetrical, and the wee hump is likely clearance for the muffler.

Probably the next steps would be spark plugs, and checking over the cooling system.

Yeah, I'd go with Jon's advise on testing where the leak is coming from. I'd add to his notes, that it's worth removing the center console, and glovebox, and putting down some towels to try catch whatever comes out Hopefully it's just a dribble, and you don't end up with something like so

So the best advise is that it all comes down to the individual certifier. Most places will be fine with your manual swap, though some might want driveshaft hoops if the driveshaft has been modified. The steering rack swap, you'll likely be looking at a bump steer test, and depending on the linkage, they may not like that if the universal joints are out of phase. Never had any issues with the steering lines, but brake lines they can be picky on. You could try getting around the bump steer test by contacting LVVTA and seeing if they have records of other e30's with the rack swap that have passed cert with that setup, to then pass onto your certifier, but chance are your exact setup has never been done, so they'll want it done anyway. (Disclaimer, I have not tried this)

Only if you don't like the colour I suppose. Otherwise it's 5k more for something more original. https://www.trademe.co.nz/3380150900 Or if you'd rather just have an convertible m3 for those rear seats, https://www.trademe.co.nz/3419345667 But it looks to be sitting about right compared to what E46 M3s are currently asking.

I think it depends on if you're looking to replace an aging car anyway, because you will take a while to realise any savings if you have to purchase a newer (and likely more expensive) car. 2 Cars seems to be the way to go if you have space. But if you're locked down to a single car a hybrid if you do mostly around town and a few long distance, or a diesel if your commute is long enough to actually warm it up each day.

Ended up getting a leaf, and it's the perfect around town vehicle for me. E30 for out of town weekend trips (if its not on stands). Went and had a look at hybrids with a mate the other week, as he wants something that can go the distance. The most interesting one we looked at was a Nissan note. https://www.trademe.co.nz/3199079352 Which was basically a leaf power train, but instead of having a battery, it had a 3 cylinder petrol producing electricity for the electric motor to drive the wheels.

Just the panel is rusting again. After getting all the rust removed. I would suggest glancing your eye down the cassette tray when you've pulled the sunroof out to see if there is anything there. Mine seems to be fine.

Or actually rust free. Split my sunroof, got it acid dipped, and painted 2 years ago, it's already rusting between the 2 sheets again, as well as on the tabs. And this is on a car that spends most of its life in a garage. Not sure if I'll bother to go through the process again, something like this is probably the way to go. https://www.highline-motorsports.com/product-page/e30-sunroof

The official requirements are here: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf Basically, if you've only done a manual swap, and used factory parts for it, you shouldn't require driveshaft hoops. "Interchangeable drive-shafts: In the case of a vehicle which has had a bolt-in OEM (original equipment manufacturer) model variant engine or transmission conversion, or a bolt-in OEM model variant turbocharger/supercharger addition, a driveshaft safety-loop is not required provided that documented proof is provided by the vehicle manufacturer or their agent, verifying that all drive-shaft components are identical between the two vehicles, and that the drive-shaft remains unmodified."

Depends on the E30 Would need to put a mattress down in the touring, as there is a rear bar right where my back curves, which doesn't make for a comfortable sleep.

Yeah, I don't know if it's any more cost effective if you're not doing the work yourself. The difference being that at least you know that the gaskets etc have been refreshed while you've done the swap. The struggle is of course at the moment finding a decent example of a 2 door, 318 auto or 325i manual.

It's easy enough to draw the line in the sand about if you need to certify it or not That will determine if you do it before the cert or after.

I did the swap myself in my E30 about 5 years ago, and it cost me around 6k including the cert. Mine was manual to begin with. Prices these days for most of the parts have gone up, so ballparking maybe 10? Don't forget the exhaust. If you're not handy with a welder, that can get pricey.

Dunno if this link will work, but found some racaros for sale: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/147078040937173/

It's a Sparco Evo II. But it's a fixed back, so probably won't be what you're after anyway? Are you just after some more fabric in your bolsters? Yes, well it depends on if you think you'll be able to travel further before Christmas and if you want comfier seats before then.

I've got a sparco seat that I drive down to Taupo with in my e30. I actually find it pretty comfortable for the 2 and a bit hours, as I fit in there nice and snuggly. It's just the getting out at the end of the trip haha. Maybe take advantage of the lack of traffic and go for a drive to see if they really are uncomfortable after a couple of hours?

Shh you I painted my wheels a Honda colour too, NH583M, and they look ok. They don't seem particular close to 30 year old basket weave silver, but they are indeed a silver colour.

Yeah, that's closer to the price I paid recently to get my wheels dipped at Advanced Chrome Platers. They also spun up the wheels, and found 2 of them weren't quite round, and fixed that as well.

@E28E30I believe it was. Here's a very old thread of it for sale back in 2011: Note the panels are all the same shade of red, all the factory options are still there. Classic wee car.

Yeah, I didn't have any E90 drop hats on the floor when I went to install them. Something I might do later on, but I mostly just wanted to get them in there and go for a drive.

Did another track day. This time mates came with me. As you can see, it was a bit wet on Saturday, so times weren't great. I drove around on my ACS wheels with lots of trend, and surprisingly didn't have many traction issues, which gave me some good confidence in the car. Came back on Sunday, and for the first time saw another E30 there at the same time as me. The weather fined up in the afternoon, and managed a 1:59 by the end of it, which wasn't too bad. Managed to burn some of the paint off the rims due to the heat. And then managed to get some H&R springs and install those. The car actually sits higher than with the Eibachs though, as I also replaced the front strut mounts at the same time. I clearly didn't bother to clean the car after the track day and before installing the new springs. I must say, I can see why everyone likes the H&R springs. They're firm enough to keep the car fairly level around corners, but not too harsh driving around town. I might swap to Koni's later on to get the damper adjustability, but until then happy with the Bilsteins.

Gosh, it's been a while since I've updated this. Not that much has really happened in a while to the E30 anyway I sold the Blue Ti I sold the E36 328i I installed some coilovers briefly thinking they'd give me better performance on the track. Drove around town. Hated them. Pulled them out the following day. They did sit nicely though. Lost a few door trim pieces (but have ordered some replacements) Did another track day, different wheels this time I can't recall why, but my times were great, but within the ballpark. No coolant puddles though, which was a bonus Then did a Motorkhana up in Pukekohe, which was great fun. And then got another set of wheels And then got my ACS wheels straightened and repainted. Stripped: After: There is quite a bit of dips in the paint, but that mostly seems to be due to them being powder coated previously

If you want to clean your VANOs, the "easiest" way was to boil it up in a pot with some washing powder: https://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/54588-e30-touring-m52-swap/?do=findComment&comment=656871 I was doing my VANOS seals at the time, so it had to come out anyway. But for in-situ, you would probably be best to grab a rag to cover the rest of the head, and get in there with a toothbrush + degreaser to clean most of the black stuff off, and preventing it from flying back into the engine.

Yes, there are a few interesting conversations about that on that Facebook thread. Such as "what if I leave my brake pedal alone, and have the wide pedal" "what if I replace my brake booster, would I need a cert for that?"