nick496

I'm assuming it was a 330ci auto prior. I'd be more inclined to try track down a unmodified "factory" driveshaft, and then not require the hoops. Due to only requirement for the hoops is due to your driveshaft being modified. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjc58nL5sXtAhV0IbcAHSjmD0EQFjAAegQIAxAC&usg=AOvVaw292hljGfPsbMtkkM0ZeVUf Otherwise I would recommend something custom, as the general ones require holes in the floor pan, which while easy, isn't as tidy as a tunnel mounted one.

On mine, the factory wiring has a plug behind the passengers speaker in the the footwell. You'll need to then take this all the way up to the mirror.

While I don't have any first hand experience with them, I did look into them for a while as a way to run 5 stud wheels occasionally without having to mess with the steering geometry etc. As 16in style 5s look great: From what I can tell, those particular ones are the ones to go for, and numerous people on R3V run them, and I see a bunch of lads also using them in Aus. This is the main R3V thread which I'm sure you've flicked through already: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-classified-forums/for-sale-wanted/wheels-tires-for-sale-wanted/333379-4x100-5x120-4x100-5x114-3-cheapest-on-the-market-~-e30sports-com?t=364335&page=8 I have flipped back to just staying fully 4 stud, and running larger brakes, but just as likely to change my mind again in another few months.

Well ballpark if it was registered would be around the 15k mark. The rust, while a concern doesn't seem to be too bad in the scheme of things. And the faults you've listed sounds like just some general e30 love is required. I must admit I am keen on the rear seats.

@beemwr do you still have any sets kicking around?

@Olafbut you keep telling me to go 16s ?

Soon....

Yeah, and I'd say that would be true for most of the performance combos. But since this is going to be a weekend warrior, not a daily, likely an acceptable sacrifice.

Got the replacement master. Put that in. Swapped over to a Competition Clutch and light flywheel (7.5kg) (pedal is very heavy). -Can't say I recommend for daily use, but I got it for a good price, and it does the job. Fixed the boot locking issue, turns out it was a wire so worn it had split in 2 -Common enough issue, but and not where I thought it would split -Recommend to anyone who has E36 central locking boot issues, to fully peel back the loom cover on both ends and get a decent look at all the wires underneath to spot any potential issues. -Soldered that back together, and now I have central locking again Replaced one of the tyres, as I had an interesting wear mix, 2x 5mm, 1x 8mm, 1x 2mm. And replaced the windscreen... (Make sure you put down a towel or something when you try to remove wiper arms, otherwise they can cause a nice chip, which then spreads into a crack across the entire windscreen) Went in and got a wof, and so she's all road legal. Until I noticed that one of the park lights was out the following day Next on the list, replace the faulty camshaft sensor, and hopefully that fixes the intermittent idle issue. I would normally point the blame at a vacuum leak, but I just replaced all the hoses and gaskets on the intake, so I have my doubts. If the camshaft sensor doesn't resolve the issue. Time to build a smoke tester I think.

Well, you might need to increase your budget for all these suggestions If we assume that your shocks are old, and all you're bushings are pretty well shagged.... By the time you've replaced your shocks/springs with something decent, that will be most of the budget. After that, replace all your bushings. I can't comment on the coilovers vs shocks/springs (yet), but you can't stray to from the standard Koni + H&R combo Actually, now that I've searched for it, something like this would be fairly ideal: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-340454-e30-nasa-spec-e30-suspension-kit/?pdk=AQADAQ Though you might want to see how that stacks up price wise compared to sourcing individual components. I'd say Olaf's got the right idea though. For an M42, I'd say you'd be ok with Hawk HPS pads for street. I wouldn't recommend them for track use, but your mileage may vary with the M42. But personally, I would be spending the money on some decent tyres, replace the bushings, get some decent pads, then look at suspension upgrades.

I've done the swap in the E30, E46 inners, E36 outers. As M3AN says, you can use E36/E30 inners, but you'll need another purple tag rack in a short time.

I'd say the m40 g240 is fine, unless you're wanting to drop lots of skids. In which case the recommendation would be a manual ZF box from an E36. I'm using an M20 flywheel (which has been machined on the back to clear sump) and an OEM clutch, and it's been fine. Driveshaft you'd be best to see how you go, measure up the length you need, try find one the right size, give up, and get it shortened. Diff, ideally at 3.73 ratio, but others prefer more or less depending on their driving style. Or have a flick through gearing calculators eg: https://e30goodies.com/gearing-calculator/ You might also want to have a flick through my thread:

Guy on the E36 Car Club Facebook group selling one:

@Olafwill be upset with me. But what are the specs on those?

We sell unifi's wireless at work, and they're a great bang for buck, centrally managed solution. The issue if you dig around is that they can add and drop features and systems really quickly. So what can happen is your system doesn't work after you do an update. Which home users in particular don't like. Haven't had any issues with the wireless in that regard, but figured it was worth mentioning.

Ah... I'll just remind you that you have.... Briefly ?

Well, went to bleed the clutch, and the bleeder nipple snapped off flush. Tried to use a drill with an easy-out to get the rest out, but she was pretty stuck in there, and so snapped the easy-out in there. So ordered a replacement slave, put that in. Rookie mistake. Didn't order a replacement master as well, as the seals are basically gone on that. Clutch pedal releases just about the floor, but managed to take her out for a quick drive to test out the gearbox, and there are no crunches, so that's nice. Drives much nicer now, and is a really comfortable drive. I found it much nicer as a daily than my E30, which is a bit concerning. Have got a single-mass flywheel to go in that's actually suited to the engine to go in, and will order a replacement master too. Will get those in, put all the trim pieces back on, figure out the boot locking issue, then take her in for a wof.

Recently had my E36 328i going. It's been really nice to drive. As others have suggested, pick something up for less, and use the rest of the money on upgrades and maintenance.

As huff3r says, I've found clean fill sites to be the cheapest option. But it depends on how much you have to get rid of.

A very excellent read. I wonder if the n52s suffer the same issues, or only to a lesser extent as they would likely be going slower.

Yeah, and I hate the puddles in the garage. Good video though. Need to buy heaps of new gaskets it seems.

The video just says that they'll mostly leak oil. Break... probably not. Just keep it topped up ?

Here's a question for you, just pulled the sump off mine (out of car on crane). And the rear of the sump was catching on the galv plate that goes between the engine and the trans. Did you find it was just a case of sliding the sump forward so that it wasn't in that wee slit? Or did you not have that issue?

Ah, didn't pull it off the parts car, so have to make one up.

Managed to drop the autobox by myself. Need to purchase a 1/2in 0.5m extension as I didn't have enough extensions to easily get behind the auto box. Put on the dual mass 318i flywheel and clutch. Not ideal, but will get the job done for now, I'll look at replacing this setup once shipping costs have died down. Put on the gearbox and everything underneath the car. Still have to: -Bend the clutch line and fit -Fit the intake back on -Swap oil filter, and fill with oil -List whatever hoses need replacing, and get those post-lockdown. -Get the shifter carrier cut and welded so that it's where it's supposed to be. Lessons learnt: -Just pull the whole engine, makes the job easier, especially when it comes to the clutch line -Don't do this job by yourself. Took probably twice as long as it would have with help, and I managed to pull some muscles in my arm, so lost strength in it after I got the exhaust back on day 3. Again, might not have been an issue if I had just pulled the engine out.