nick496

@Olafbut you keep telling me to go 16s ?

Soon....

Yeah, and I'd say that would be true for most of the performance combos. But since this is going to be a weekend warrior, not a daily, likely an acceptable sacrifice.

Got the replacement master. Put that in. Swapped over to a Competition Clutch and light flywheel (7.5kg) (pedal is very heavy). -Can't say I recommend for daily use, but I got it for a good price, and it does the job. Fixed the boot locking issue, turns out it was a wire so worn it had split in 2 -Common enough issue, but and not where I thought it would split -Recommend to anyone who has E36 central locking boot issues, to fully peel back the loom cover on both ends and get a decent look at all the wires underneath to spot any potential issues. -Soldered that back together, and now I have central locking again Replaced one of the tyres, as I had an interesting wear mix, 2x 5mm, 1x 8mm, 1x 2mm. And replaced the windscreen... (Make sure you put down a towel or something when you try to remove wiper arms, otherwise they can cause a nice chip, which then spreads into a crack across the entire windscreen) Went in and got a wof, and so she's all road legal. Until I noticed that one of the park lights was out the following day Next on the list, replace the faulty camshaft sensor, and hopefully that fixes the intermittent idle issue. I would normally point the blame at a vacuum leak, but I just replaced all the hoses and gaskets on the intake, so I have my doubts. If the camshaft sensor doesn't resolve the issue. Time to build a smoke tester I think.

Well, you might need to increase your budget for all these suggestions If we assume that your shocks are old, and all you're bushings are pretty well shagged.... By the time you've replaced your shocks/springs with something decent, that will be most of the budget. After that, replace all your bushings. I can't comment on the coilovers vs shocks/springs (yet), but you can't stray to from the standard Koni + H&R combo Actually, now that I've searched for it, something like this would be fairly ideal: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-340454-e30-nasa-spec-e30-suspension-kit/?pdk=AQADAQ Though you might want to see how that stacks up price wise compared to sourcing individual components. I'd say Olaf's got the right idea though. For an M42, I'd say you'd be ok with Hawk HPS pads for street. I wouldn't recommend them for track use, but your mileage may vary with the M42. But personally, I would be spending the money on some decent tyres, replace the bushings, get some decent pads, then look at suspension upgrades.

I've done the swap in the E30, E46 inners, E36 outers. As M3AN says, you can use E36/E30 inners, but you'll need another purple tag rack in a short time.

I'd say the m40 g240 is fine, unless you're wanting to drop lots of skids. In which case the recommendation would be a manual ZF box from an E36. I'm using an M20 flywheel (which has been machined on the back to clear sump) and an OEM clutch, and it's been fine. Driveshaft you'd be best to see how you go, measure up the length you need, try find one the right size, give up, and get it shortened. Diff, ideally at 3.73 ratio, but others prefer more or less depending on their driving style. Or have a flick through gearing calculators eg: https://e30goodies.com/gearing-calculator/ You might also want to have a flick through my thread:

Guy on the E36 Car Club Facebook group selling one:

@Olafwill be upset with me. But what are the specs on those?

We sell unifi's wireless at work, and they're a great bang for buck, centrally managed solution. The issue if you dig around is that they can add and drop features and systems really quickly. So what can happen is your system doesn't work after you do an update. Which home users in particular don't like. Haven't had any issues with the wireless in that regard, but figured it was worth mentioning.

Ah... I'll just remind you that you have.... Briefly ?

Well, went to bleed the clutch, and the bleeder nipple snapped off flush. Tried to use a drill with an easy-out to get the rest out, but she was pretty stuck in there, and so snapped the easy-out in there. So ordered a replacement slave, put that in. Rookie mistake. Didn't order a replacement master as well, as the seals are basically gone on that. Clutch pedal releases just about the floor, but managed to take her out for a quick drive to test out the gearbox, and there are no crunches, so that's nice. Drives much nicer now, and is a really comfortable drive. I found it much nicer as a daily than my E30, which is a bit concerning. Have got a single-mass flywheel to go in that's actually suited to the engine to go in, and will order a replacement master too. Will get those in, put all the trim pieces back on, figure out the boot locking issue, then take her in for a wof.

Recently had my E36 328i going. It's been really nice to drive. As others have suggested, pick something up for less, and use the rest of the money on upgrades and maintenance.

As huff3r says, I've found clean fill sites to be the cheapest option. But it depends on how much you have to get rid of.

A very excellent read. I wonder if the n52s suffer the same issues, or only to a lesser extent as they would likely be going slower.

Yeah, and I hate the puddles in the garage. Good video though. Need to buy heaps of new gaskets it seems.

The video just says that they'll mostly leak oil. Break... probably not. Just keep it topped up ?

Here's a question for you, just pulled the sump off mine (out of car on crane). And the rear of the sump was catching on the galv plate that goes between the engine and the trans. Did you find it was just a case of sliding the sump forward so that it wasn't in that wee slit? Or did you not have that issue?

Ah, didn't pull it off the parts car, so have to make one up.

Managed to drop the autobox by myself. Need to purchase a 1/2in 0.5m extension as I didn't have enough extensions to easily get behind the auto box. Put on the dual mass 318i flywheel and clutch. Not ideal, but will get the job done for now, I'll look at replacing this setup once shipping costs have died down. Put on the gearbox and everything underneath the car. Still have to: -Bend the clutch line and fit -Fit the intake back on -Swap oil filter, and fill with oil -List whatever hoses need replacing, and get those post-lockdown. -Get the shifter carrier cut and welded so that it's where it's supposed to be. Lessons learnt: -Just pull the whole engine, makes the job easier, especially when it comes to the clutch line -Don't do this job by yourself. Took probably twice as long as it would have with help, and I managed to pull some muscles in my arm, so lost strength in it after I got the exhaust back on day 3. Again, might not have been an issue if I had just pulled the engine out.

It got sold with an m20b25 back in it. It was then in an accident where it hit a curb or something, and there was a bit of chassis damage from memory. I believe it's in Auckland somewhere, but I don't think it's in a drivable state currently.

A couple of weekends back, did the valve cover gasket. That had to be be pried out with pliers out of the cover, as it was so hard and brittle. Managed to chip a piece off into the head, so had to borrow a mates air compressor, and fortunately managed to blow it out. Also did the oil filter housing while I was in there, which wasn't too bad, but likely needed to be done. The head looks much cleaner than the one in my E30. This weekend pulled out the auto box. Bit of a pain doing that solo, as it's flipping heavy, and I didn't have enough extensions to got the whole length of the auto box. The fluid that came out of the auto box was dark, so that probably wasn't helping the poor jatco. Manual pedal box is in. Fresh fluid inside the manual box, the little bit of oil still left in it was nice and pink, so hopefully she hasn't been abused too much. Providing I have a spigot bearing, should have this rolling after easter.

Mighty car mods had an issue importing an engine into Australia, as it potentially contained asbestos in its head gasket. I think they planned to get the engine disassembled and then reassembled overseas with new non asbestos gaskets. So this is likely where the msds comes in. Weird that you would have to do it for an export though. But given the age of the engine, this shouldn't be a factor in your instance.

Finally sold. To a friend of a friend.

Put some Hawk HT10 pads on the car, along with some R888R's all round. The pads made the pedal feel very vague with no heat in the brakes, but after warming them up, performed very well, and had no issues with locking up. They are of course, not great on the street, so had to keep my distance driving there and back. After the track day, they also squeal when cold. No action shots this time, as it was just me, though I guess I should figure out filming along with recording lap times. Managed a PB for me of 1:55.74. PB of the car (In it's prior state with shot HPS pads and street tyres is 1:55:44) All in all, a very consistent 1:57 Managed to pass an E46 330ci, and kept up with a few slightly higher power cars too (V8 powered AE86) So very happy with the pads, they seemed to lock up even after several laps. Now that I have pads I can trust, need some time to get consistent, so I stop locking up and wearing flat spots on tyres >.> Only real issue was at the end of the last session, when I came into the pits, turned the car off, and coolant started coming out of the overflow, leaving a massive puddle for me to clean up. Electric fan wasn't running like it was after other sessions, and temperature gauge was showing below average. Coolant pipes were solid. Ended up driving her home without incident, so we shall see. Potentially an airlock that finally got freed after almost 200km's of track duty?