nick496

The video just says that they'll mostly leak oil. Break... probably not. Just keep it topped up ?

Here's a question for you, just pulled the sump off mine (out of car on crane). And the rear of the sump was catching on the galv plate that goes between the engine and the trans. Did you find it was just a case of sliding the sump forward so that it wasn't in that wee slit? Or did you not have that issue?

Ah, didn't pull it off the parts car, so have to make one up.

Managed to drop the autobox by myself. Need to purchase a 1/2in 0.5m extension as I didn't have enough extensions to easily get behind the auto box. Put on the dual mass 318i flywheel and clutch. Not ideal, but will get the job done for now, I'll look at replacing this setup once shipping costs have died down. Put on the gearbox and everything underneath the car. Still have to: -Bend the clutch line and fit -Fit the intake back on -Swap oil filter, and fill with oil -List whatever hoses need replacing, and get those post-lockdown. -Get the shifter carrier cut and welded so that it's where it's supposed to be. Lessons learnt: -Just pull the whole engine, makes the job easier, especially when it comes to the clutch line -Don't do this job by yourself. Took probably twice as long as it would have with help, and I managed to pull some muscles in my arm, so lost strength in it after I got the exhaust back on day 3. Again, might not have been an issue if I had just pulled the engine out.

It got sold with an m20b25 back in it. It was then in an accident where it hit a curb or something, and there was a bit of chassis damage from memory. I believe it's in Auckland somewhere, but I don't think it's in a drivable state currently.

A couple of weekends back, did the valve cover gasket. That had to be be pried out with pliers out of the cover, as it was so hard and brittle. Managed to chip a piece off into the head, so had to borrow a mates air compressor, and fortunately managed to blow it out. Also did the oil filter housing while I was in there, which wasn't too bad, but likely needed to be done. The head looks much cleaner than the one in my E30. This weekend pulled out the auto box. Bit of a pain doing that solo, as it's flipping heavy, and I didn't have enough extensions to got the whole length of the auto box. The fluid that came out of the auto box was dark, so that probably wasn't helping the poor jatco. Manual pedal box is in. Fresh fluid inside the manual box, the little bit of oil still left in it was nice and pink, so hopefully she hasn't been abused too much. Providing I have a spigot bearing, should have this rolling after easter.

Mighty car mods had an issue importing an engine into Australia, as it potentially contained asbestos in its head gasket. I think they planned to get the engine disassembled and then reassembled overseas with new non asbestos gaskets. So this is likely where the msds comes in. Weird that you would have to do it for an export though. But given the age of the engine, this shouldn't be a factor in your instance.

Finally sold. To a friend of a friend.

Put some Hawk HT10 pads on the car, along with some R888R's all round. The pads made the pedal feel very vague with no heat in the brakes, but after warming them up, performed very well, and had no issues with locking up. They are of course, not great on the street, so had to keep my distance driving there and back. After the track day, they also squeal when cold. No action shots this time, as it was just me, though I guess I should figure out filming along with recording lap times. Managed a PB for me of 1:55.74. PB of the car (In it's prior state with shot HPS pads and street tyres is 1:55:44) All in all, a very consistent 1:57 Managed to pass an E46 330ci, and kept up with a few slightly higher power cars too (V8 powered AE86) So very happy with the pads, they seemed to lock up even after several laps. Now that I have pads I can trust, need some time to get consistent, so I stop locking up and wearing flat spots on tyres >.> Only real issue was at the end of the last session, when I came into the pits, turned the car off, and coolant started coming out of the overflow, leaving a massive puddle for me to clean up. Electric fan wasn't running like it was after other sessions, and temperature gauge was showing below average. Coolant pipes were solid. Ended up driving her home without incident, so we shall see. Potentially an airlock that finally got freed after almost 200km's of track duty?

Yeah, motor is sitting there. Have it all planned out, it's just a matter of time.

Give me a few years

Well sadly the wallet wasn't able to make that happen, but hopefully not too far away. Prior to my WoF, saw my front swaybar bushings were a little bulging out the side of their mounts. Pulled them out to find them like this: I'm not 100% on this, but could not pretensioning the sway bar correctly cause this level of wear in under a year? (Including a few track days) Passed the WoF, but she didn't take well to being touched by other men, and formed a nice puddle of coolant while she was there. Cause of that was a split in the hoses just under the clamp, which probably explains the weeping I was seeing around the thermostat housing. Shout out to Hillcrest Auto Services, who chucked on a spare hose they had so I could get home. They also pointed out the my heater core was leaking (Which is under 2 years old), so the dash will have to come out yet again. So just put on new radiator hoses top and bottom, which should hopefully mean my cooling system is going to hold up for a while to come.

Having done the swap in my e30, I recall there being a Rev hang, but I think I've just gotten used to it over time. Have yet to reflash the ecu with the factory manual map though. As for diff ratios, either is fine, and might come down to preference. Though I'm looking at the 3.15 ratio to closely relate to the setup I have in the e30 of 3.64 and the g240.

I'm local (Hamilton based), and have inpa that should work on your car. (works on my e36s) It does depend on the cable you use as the others have said. Flick me a pm and we can give it a go.

It's probably due to the reasonable performance, of a reasonably reliable BMW engine, in the classic NA straight 6 that BMW is known for. Currently they're in excellent bang for buck cars. (130i, 330i, 530i)

The facelift e46 318i's share the same n4x motor that are in the 120i's. Would stay away from those. The pre facelift e46 318i's have the m43, which are very reliable, but performance wise aren't much to write home about.

If the shifters were level in this photo, I've just taken the lines from the right gearbox, and matched at the upper starter bolt. Rotated 10 degrees, and she's pretty close to matching up on the holes. What you really want to look at is how level the top of the starter is in comparison.

It is still sagging at the edges, but I'll probably just give it a clean up and reglue it back together. Found out why the key doesn't work in the boot. It's the Valet key. So my assumption is that the drivers door has been replaced, and the lock wasn't swapped over. (If any of the previous owners could confirm that would be handy) Which would mean I just need a new full key cut off the passenger door code, and a drivers door lock rebuild kit. And hopefully the boot lock hasn't been swapped also. The boot lock decided it wanted to no longer work with the central locking. Fortunately the rear seats fold down, so was just a case of crawling in there and manually opening it. The solenoid still works when 12 volts is applied, and the rest of the system works when you move the arm back and forward. I'm assuming it will be the boot loom which looked ok at the parts where it exits the body and enters the trunk, so that will be some fun. Tidied the garage, and gave the gearbox a clean.

If this your m52 swapped e30, your getrag 260 is not going to be a bolt on replacement for your m40 getrag 240, as it will sit on an angle and require a little fab work for the transmission mount. That may or may not factor into your question.

I'd say the car would get results similar to what others say. But I've only really driven it around town (and not that frequently).

Couldn't really say, as only filled her up a few times, and the vast majority of trips were around town. I'd guess 12l/100kms around town, but you should average out around 10l/100kms. This will give you a better indication http://www.fuelly.com/car/bmw/318ti

Hi Guys Selling my runabout I had for a year while the E30 was getting panel work done. -Motorsport kit-Non-sunroofHas a fresh wof from VTNZ, so good until 2021.Recent oil and filter changeWriting on the transmission indicates that it was serviced fairly recently as well.Cons:AC doesn't workCentral locking doesn't work Link to trademe for some more photos, but we've all seen an E36 TI: https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2507450480 Will take $1800 from a bimmersporter.

Cheers for the tips @M M My first thought was to just grease the rails, but the door switch is something I'll look into. I've done literally nothing on the car, and it's already falling apart on me. That's just from the heat with it parked up on the street. I've finished tidying up my E36 Ti, so once that's sold, will be able to manual swap this and drive it. Will order some seals for the intake and a new tube for the ICV, which is normally a failure point, along with some bushings for the manual conversion.

Maybe gearbox? Otherwise the rear end looks like it would be in reasonable condition.

Well with E30 Mega meet over, there was only 1 event left in the year. Another track day down at Taupo. Fitted a Z3M radiator to replace my weeping one Made a paper gasket for the thermostat housing, as I was also weeping from there Then out onto the track. I took a friend with me this time, and he drove the car for a few rounds, so I have some (bad) footage. It's hard to see from my camera, but in person it was very weird to see so much body roll. Out on the track against an RX8, an AE86, and a Turbo MX5 Interestingly, my friend was faster in the MX5 around the corners, but the MX5 pulled away on the straights. That's the difference of being a more confident driver (as well as not having hot boi rims with no vents) My friend is a better driver than me, and managed a 1:55 something from memory. I did a bit worse than last time, and my best time was a 2:00.43 Brake wear sensor light went on after the 2nd to last session of the day. Figuring it might just be an old E30 thing, checked the pads, but they seemed ok, so did a final session. Got home, took off the pads, and found the fronts were gone. Swapped to some stock ATE pads, and now I can lock up my wheels on the street ? YAY! So yeah, don't think the Hawk HPS pads are up to my track day use, and I must have cooked them. Also, my friend left the doors open on the car during the day, and after 6 hours, the car didn't want to start. Swapped to a 710CCA battery After all this, figured that regular track days in an E30 touring might not be the best idea long term. So purchased an E36 328i: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/62999-the-bimmersport-family-e36-328i Probably will take the E30 out again a few more times until the E36 is ready though.