allan

Have a chat to Joe at Euro surgeon believe he did Ray's M3-5 electronics and Glenn recommended him to me when I did my engine swap. If you have every thing from the 5er them why not swap every thing over I know it is never that straight forward. Would it be a M54B30 after all the deleting and swapping out of manifolds and other stuff you mentioned also the EWS your 5er could be series 3 and they are getting pretty involved in a lot of the process in operating the vehicle as a whole. Best of luck nothing is impossible keep us posted.

That's as bad as Clarkson and his log hand brake. Just don't get pricked by the prongs on those things nasty buggers.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_kw=bmw+zhp+rims

Hi, need to put some money aside for the little things like this as maintaining a bmw is, can be costly. All the parts are available OEM or genuine for most thing other wise you are fooling your self still always check the price.

If you haven't googled yet maybe this might help https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=diff+tooth+contact+pattern&newwindow=1&hl=en-NZ&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=qM5gU_f6G4j6lAXNpIHgAQ&ved=0CDYQsAQ&biw=1426&bih=766. Also would like to know the out come of this situation.

Pelican sent me some articles thought they might be of interest. http://www.multibriefs.com/briefs/cb-pelican/cb-pelican042314.php

Thanks Josh, would one not take a copy of the original program onto a separate disc or such and then carry out the changes that are required so if something went walk about it has not been a total waste.

If I may gentlemen can you "dumb it down" so some one like myself who is interested in this aspect of BMW cars can learn and understand what you are talking about many thanks.

Have you checked to see if the drain holes in the bottom of the door are clear also the condition of the rubber seal against the window glass.

Thanks , on the ti it does not go their it leaves the sensor connector located at the front of the washer bottle goes to the loom which has head lights, horn, fog light etc runs up the inner guard in the engine bay past the top of the strut tower under the protection panel for the brake booster under that and through the firewall via a large rubber grommet. https://www.google.co.nz/search?newwindow=1&hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1426&bih=766&q=e46+ti+engine+bay&oq=e46+ti+engine+bay&gs_l=img.12...0.0.0.4499.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1ac..41.img..0.0.0.Ss4Lkeulihg#facrc=_&imgdii=ufyFjKaTHU2GrM%3A%3BP1lNxNIvfj7fjM%3BufyFjKaTHU2GrM%3A&imgrc=ufyFjKaTHU2GrM%253A%3BAW1TaaOSlC1kuM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.xs4all.nl%252F~ebiemold%252FBMW%252Fcompact%252Fbmw001.JPG%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.bimmerfest.com%252Fforums%252Fshowthread.php%253Ft%253D143126%3B708%3B532

Yes the bottle is full of water checked both full, empty and moving the float up and down. The testing was done with it unplugged from the cluster and then replugged it back into the cluster making sure that the connecter had engaged correctly and able to move the securing arm and lock it in place.

Hi, electrical gurrues Have a low fluid windscreen washer bottle light on. The vehicle has been scanned and the sensor replaced but still the light remains on checking the wiring with an ohm meter and have a circuit even tried another washer bottle and moved the float up and down. Connect it all back up and light still on. Have I missed something or is a cluster fault help most welcome thanks.

Hi, A real pain in the rear when you find a butch job done on your car and hours have to be spent repairing it. In the debating chamber section 330 manual conversion would have a talk to Ray on this one not impossible but is it worth it ( pro's and con's thing). Best of luck with any other mods you intend to do like the colour

Hi Dan their are a lot of e46 compacts out their most are the 316 or 318 variety http://www.auto-data.net/en/?f=showCar&car_id=9974. Will have to put mine over the scales to see what it comes in at

Thanks guys not very tech minded so most of the 720vp 30fsp etc stuff means diddle to me but your other comment say a lot about it thanks.

Not to many found only 3 when I was looking some time ago believe this was one of them Wanaka way from memory.The others I've come across were auto's a couple have appeared in Wellington over the last couple of years the sport model looks way nicer. http://www.carsbase.com/photo/photo_full.php?id=63696 https://www.google.co.nz/search?newwindow=1&hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1600&bih=796&q=e46+325ti&oq=e46+325ti&gs_l=img.3..0j0i5l2j0i24l2.7365.10609.0.11

Just going through the super cheap Easter cat and came across this any good http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/NanoCam-Pro-720p-Action-Sports-Camera.aspx?pid=344095&menuFrom=1021133#Cross

http://www.turners.co.nz/Damaged-Vehicles/Search/BMW/530d/12344511/

Thanks

I believe Sept 2000 is the magical date they changed to the world wide tuners. Unless you have a real early fitted model radio and the car being 2001 it should be able to be changed to Oceania or similar. If you have the 16.9 wide screen then the radio will be in the boot on the left hand side with the amp nav gear. To put the radio back instead of the screen could get involved or have I got that wrong.

My old 530 had one was hooked up to the expansion tank via a long hose went down to the bottom of the fan cowl and across the bottom of it to a small pump (think it was) and another hose that went off into the clutter of pipes and other stuff. Look on Realoem.com under the engine section and look through until the cooling part should show it but might not have a number for it.

No spare = weight saving exercise plus less cost practical umm from who's point of view. Run flat tyres an answer to the no spare maybe what is the cost via vee believe they are into the 3rd or 4th gene on run flats and the hard ride thing from previous genes has been addressed or not ?.

Clinton, Good advise given by that gentleman these motors are bad news give them a cc and they will deliver a litre on your garage floor plus a whole lot of bad smells plus an empty wallet sorry if this is getting repetitive just trying to give you a heads up.

You need to be looking at a complete heating and air exchange system. New Zealand is years behind in this field and for the most part the systems offered only do part of the job required. They warm the house which is great but by doing so they allow more moisture to be carried by the warm air. When this heating is turned off or down the moisture laden air condensates on the coolest surface. This moisture ladened air now needs to be removed from the house with out loosing all the energy used to warm it this is the most important and expensive part of the exercise. Look over seas at the type of systems they have and what they do to keep their houses warm and moisture free.

Are you after a NZ one or would you consider importing one as their have been a couple of 07 323 wagons with low k's show up.