allan

Do you want a High or Low pitch or both came out of the donor car a 2001 325i. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=702172900 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=702173860

If all the rest of the system is connected and works then as you say the only missing bits are the xenon bulbs and reflectors. Take note of the light rating I think BMW used 4500 as standard while other use a higher rating this is important as it will be directly related to the light quality you get. Also check to see if your headlight have an earth connection inside them this earth's out the reflector units in case anything goes wrong as their is some very high voltage flying around when this type of bulb is turned on. Best of luck and let us known the outcome.

If that is the case then you should be ok to fit the xenons. But does the vehicle still have the control module and the sensors on the front and rear suspension to tell the headlight adjuster motors to move up or down with suspension travel?.

This has been raised before might need to press the search button or have a look on the LVVT site. Thought the problem was due to people not matching the correct bulb type with the correct reflector hence the incorrect light pattern being displayed and a fail on the WOF. On the facelift type E39 headlights the low beam, high beam reflector units are able to be separated, couple screws hold then together from memory hence the xenon type units being fitted. This I found out when I transferred the units from a busted set from a 540 into my old 530 which only had H7 bulbs as the low beam. Then you need to get the control module, wiring and sensor fitted to allow the lights to move up and down as the car goes over the bumps in the road to stop you blinding the on coming cars. This is not a cheep option imo if you are going to do it correctly or buy a vehicle with them already fitted my 2 cents for what it's worth.

But but aren't the keys' gods spending your hard earned $$$$ to bring us out of the pen a paper age???

Another saving to be had should this pass is the $9.00 booking fee you get stung for every time you purchase more miles

If Ray is unable to help give which I doubt pm me.

Hi Neal, Looking at the last photo what a mission looks like you had to strip the interior and the boot total. Nicely done on the door card lay out and tweeters hope the remainder is a breeze if I may what is your goal with this?.

What the !!! guys don't give up your day job but it did give me laugh , Andy put some muisc to it and it might go virual (spelling I know)

An update on this I found a repair on line but it was basically glue the broken bits back together. A bit difficult if you haven't got all the broken bits after looking on trade me I found an earlier cassette type 43 model with a push button on/off like mine which I bought a bit of punt. It arrived yesterday and after checking out the switch setup it was totally different bugger. So either fix it or buy another CD53 unit so I decided to try and fix it. Upon checking out the small bits I had was able to rebuild one of the mounting points for the switch bracket. The other mount was to badly broken to do anything with so I filed it off flush with the base leaving a slight mark of it's position. After looking through some old computer cases I found a piece that I was able to reshape and reduce in length. Using a pin as a locator I slid the pin through the hole on the piece made and super glued it in place then removed the pin and before the glue set located the switch bracket in place to make sure the repair was in the correct spot and put it aside to let the glue set. After a couple of hours I fitted the switch set up to the face plate and reassembled the rest of the radio then connected it to the wiring in the car and pressed the button it felt positive and low and hold it worked. The photo shows the broken parts ( black arrows) while the locating ones are the (red arrows) http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/Allanson54/switchsetup1_zps40d376e0.jpg

Off topic I know would you have any style 97's 17" e46

All good, I was never able to find an reason why the second set of tail lights I fitted got fried even after having the lcm changed and recoded etc hence the capacitors being used.They can be fitted in the spare wheel space or neatly beside the tail lights as mine were. Best of luck with it they do make the darker coloured cars look sharper. If you haven't already stick in some phantom bulb's in the indicators get ride of that orange blob look.

Hi Julian, Hope you have better luck with the Clears than I did when fitting them to my old 2001 530. Had the led parks but amber indicators which I wanted to change to the clears after two failed set of lights I fitted the capacitors and had no trouble after that. Things I found different light connectors old type a square connector new a flat six pin, modify the body slightly like you had to and a couple of other things. Most important make sure you get a good seal with the new tail lights on the body as they form part of the water channel for the boot drain and if they leak you can get some nasty electrical problems apart from a boot full of water. Good luck

Could the Council or Land transport be held liable for the no signs being posting, Public health and safety and all that?

Don't limit yourself to a BMW

drunk as or going like hell showing off!

Thanks for the info guys this idea is being shelved for now other things taking priority.

Looking for a medium case diff 3.15 or 3.23 to fit an e46 thanks for your help.

It is for an e46 guys.

Wish to swap out the heater controls from the dial type, top part of photo to the push button pixel display bottom part as per photo. Is this a straight swap or does some aligning, coding of the new unit need to be carried out thanks for your assistance. http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/Allanson54/heatercontrols_zpsf9a5a3e4.jpg

BMW interiors are world renown for being the most boring or having the worst colour comb's around maybe just maybe the wood grain make it a little classeee One of those personal choice things I feel.

Went to turn the radio on and nothing happened upon stripping it down found that the on/off button has come adrift and the plastic part that holds it is place is broken. Would this part be available or is it purchase another radio time thanks for any assistance the radio is a CD53 from a e46 the label also has Alpine made in Japan etc. http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/Allanson54/radiobits2_zps52bd7539.jpg

How about comparing apples with apples ie a 6 speed auto against a 6 speed manual of course the 7 or 8 speed auto will be more fuel efficient as you state 7& 8 are overdrive and put their for that purpose. As for burning out a clutch that is poor driving or sh*t road design allowing traffic to stall or crawl along. Maybe those that have a manual are not interested in heel toeing it or speed shifting woop woop leave that for those on the race track I say. It comes down to a personal choice in the end I feel and having learned to drive in a manual car prefer them so each to their own. Even if the dealers don't wish to carry the extra stock because of their profit line getting hit they should still let the customer know what options are available to them.

All good and well but what can the 20% do to get what they want when the dealership is pushing another barrow. That is with out going down the conversion route, having to buy new or import it not all of us are Roth child rich.

NZ market not large enough to warrant pushing them and with all the fancy buttons to boot with an auto. Plenty in the UK as fleet cars and they appear to be lower spec if you find a NZ one it will have had the manual box ticked when ordered from new or requested as such when imported. Why not just buy a 330 auto and convert it to manual that's what Ii did in the end when looking for a manual 325 compact.