Allanw

later cars have plastic belt pulleys - screwdriver in teh bolts can crack them. I use the thump method, never had a problem.

11, but I couldn't find the "Who the hell cares" button for a lot of them.

Sounds normal.

So that's not nail polish remnants on YOUR finger? I thought you might have had a MAN-icure too - I've still got a bit of grey on mine, from etching some wheels

Why did the head gasket blow anyway? Fan clutch won't affect hill climbing - it's really only for idling in traffic... and even then, ONLY if the radiator radiates enough heat to heat up the thermostat on the clutch. If the temp is climbing on hills, it means the engine is making more heat than the cooling system can dispose of - most common cause is either lack of airflow (not a problem if the car is moving) or a radiator that either isn't flowing enough (clogged/blocked), or can't get the heat from the coolant to the outside world (internally coated with crap or that dodgy stop leak stuff). If the headgasket cause is unknown, then good practice is a cooling system overhaul, or at least a thorough inspection, including the radiator. I'd not bother taking the radiator to a shop, when that money can go directly towards a new radiator. The really only effective way of cleaning a radiator, is to remove the tanks, and "rod it out", which isn't cheap or easy - The '29 Ford cost $400 bucks to open and clean out. (but a replacement costs a lot more than an E30 one!)

What he said. DO NOT use the gauge to tell you if it's overheating or not. IF it moves above normal, it's ALREADY over 110C, and once it hits the red, it's seriously hot. There's a few parts that should really be replaced, if one has failed - you don't want to risk the engine. IF you drive, use this: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/47848-e39-obc-secret-menu-ktmp-coolant-temperature/ remember that a sudden drop in temperature can be as bad as an increase - if enough coolant gets out, the gauge won't show any change, or maybe even a decrease, because the sensor is dry. You want to be careful, because fixing an M54 headgasket can mean having to Timesert the block, and it usually has to come out of the car to get to the rear holes.

It can be a major, but it's been known to be caused by a dodgy battery too... Don't get your hopes up just yet though. Glenn should be able to sort you out OK, though if it's only done it once it can be hard to pinpoint the exact cause on the first inspection.

I've reported 2 events to the cops in the last 3 years. One when a guy tried to run me over with his truck, and one after a home break in. On both occasions, the cops couldn't have made more effort! The truck one, the Cop arranged to come to MY house, on Sunday, AFTER Fathers day lunch last year, at a time that suited me - He was making it super easy for me, and I expected it to be what ever suited him. Let the kids play in the car, and turn on the flashing lights and siren, after he radioed in what he was doing. With the break in, they were sympathetic, helpful, sensitive, and answered anything we asked about their procedures and thoughts.. The truck driver was fined, but they never got anyone for the burglary - had $800 of crap stolen from the house (petrol, sausages (!) video camera, etc - nothing big), but about $1800 of damage done getting in!

like the spare tyre (German Metzeler 5-60 15) on my '72 Beetle, with a 172 DOT code??? Still got knoblies on it I think it's harder than the rim is! Today may be the first time that rim/tyre has been on a tyre machine since 1972. Is that too old?

Yep - my leased cars had oil changes - nothing else as per schedule. They even put a clutch plate back in when doing a trans repair out of warranty (synchro repair), and tech told me it had about 10K of life left (getting close to end of lease!), it lasted 12K and they had to replace it before my lease expired, at 3 years and 160kms. The were betting they could sell it to some poor sucker, before having to spend a couple of hundred on a clutch. Hell - the last two had more windscreens than either spark plug changes and air filters COMBINED! Another time the rear brake linings had 0.5mm left, and they told the dealer to leave them in until I complained of noise! The ex-lease cars sold as "well serviced" are a complete crock!

So it's (mathematically) two M20's with 3 M40 heads on? Is that metric? M54 is a nice engine - all alloy, so not too nose heavy. Probably going to use less fuel than an M30, with similar demands, but probably a better performer in full Vanos giuse - the M54's have an impressive torque curve, and are REALLY happy to rev. They're like an M20, but with some nice low down grunt. Plenty around too.

What they said ^^^^ Each car needs to be looked at for what it is. Without seeing it, biasing opinion based on where it came from is a waste of time. I've had leased NZ cars that I'd NEVER want to own afterwards

Dog = Great Pyrenees: If that face appeared at the house window, You'd have nothing stolen, but a small mess to clean up outside

Forgot: If I were a rich man, I'd have an X4 parked here right now. November 5th isn't THAT far away.

For some reason... reminds me of the Mini Ogle: At least the Ogle had an excuse though... The 70's! And it's funky in it's own way.

Single speed? My Beetle is single speed... but I just realised they self park now! A wire was loose, so you had to park them yourself before! Awesomest techanogical discovery of the week!

NO IDEA for prices, sorry - not really my area. MK4's tend to seem expensive in comparision to the MK5's, considering the 5's are quite a bit newer and often lower milage, as the 5's are more "classy" rather than sporty, where the 4's are a bit more "raw" - more appealing to a certain group - the value seems to hold better. here is the pin thing: Seems to wear in all the 02M trans's. (and 02Q, which is basically the mk5 version of the trans). If you get it, get one of these: 02M301127 on your first parts order. Take out starter, swap screw/guide replace starter :-)

$26 mill is nothing really - you'd be amazed at the money wasted every day. Even though you think it's a lot, it's probably more than you think. Of course you aren't allowed to publicly say bad things about the "establishment" you work for... and they are all the same, to varying degrees, it seems - like everyone didn't already know THAT! Seriously - $26M is about the value of the gear "A guy I know" looks after in "his" department... in a certain establishment (with 3 outlying establishments), in a small town - and that's only the little stuff, most expensive singleitem is about $250K, the BIG gear, that's kind of built in, is more millions, per system. That only covers 150K of the NZ population. "Social Security and Welfare" costs about the same as Heatlthcare AND Education combined!

You haven't seen his driving... plus: his driveway is probably 20 metres long too

Check the timing chains (decent shop can check the figures in VCDS or similar). They're known to destroy the guides, and sometimes even break chains... a nasty rattle on cold startup is a good sign it's imminent. Bit like M62TU's really. Not a gauranteed thing, but if you can avoid it, you'll save some cash. The timing chains are a pain to do, as they're on the trans end, but the bits are cheap enough. If it's not noisy now, Plan on doing the chains at the next clutch, to save masses on labour and avoid massive engine failure if it DOES happen. The haldex controllers can get water in them, but it appears to be more a nasty environment thing, like the UK where corrosion helps break the seal. Not so much on mk5's though. The trans can break selector forks, but it's not SUPER common, though the guide pin screw behind the starter can wear and contribute to the problem. They're only about $10, and can be fitted in 20 minutes - worth doing every 60 to 100K IMO. I've got a MK5 type (184KW) R32 engine in my garage, waiting for chains before being bolted into our next family car. Family cars needs more VR6 noise. It's got 150K on it, and no noise symptoms, but I don't want to pull it out later, again. Apparently the MK5's are less prone to chain issues, but enough have had it for me to not call them "solved"! They're not really very fast, not by newer 2.0 GTI standards, or Golf R, but they have awesome torque - similar to recent 3.0 TD hiluxes at 3500rpm (though less lower down, as no turbo, but twice the useful RPM range too!), so great cruising power.

HAHA! I had to Ulike that, so I could like it again :-)

Did you buy some seat base protectors yet? You don't want to get stains on the passenger seats.

Ron is looking for a beach hack.

Funny, I've had a few too, and also had the engines in VW's. The company one 92 Legacy VZ from 40K to 380K needed: a radiator - it blew the side tank, and I din't notice - I drove it a considerable distance, and when I got home, the coolant had evapourated down to JUST the coolant additve, right down the side of the car, and when it cooled, I put 5.5L water in. Figuring it was rooted, I drove it to work the next day, and had it looked at - needed just the radiator! the alternator died one day (dry joints), but go SO hot from the fault the solder melted and fixed itself :-) Never had it looked at. Auto trans stuck in 3rd. Had a manual conversion done. Engine ran out of oil... because of a crack in the oil pump housing... was on the way home from the panel beaters after a frontal collision when my boss was driving. It was impact damage, and replaced under insurance... still no issues. This this used to get caned all the time, even from cold. It's what it was for - a workhorse. Mrs W's 95 Impreza: Brought at 288kms with one owner and a full history printout from import at 77K. Worst repair was diff seals, and it was really maintainance, as they were weeping. The guy we got it off never had a breakdown and just had it serviced 6 monthly. I swapped the engine and trans, because I had better ones (with a manual box!) and had no problems except a missfire (dodgy plug) until 320+ K, when the fuel pump died - it didn't technically leave my Mrs stranded... it was running, but low on power - I told her to turn it off, then it wouldn't start :-( Also, failed 2 WOFs in its life in NZ - one I left an exhaust clamp loose, the other - Mrs toore off the front swy bar mount camping :-) Also had a 95 Legacy manual, first NZ owner had it from 22K to 220K when I brought it with a poked clutch and rocker cover gaskets. Fixed it up and was a good car, until I sold it and it demolished a caldina wagon. Rocker cover gaskets done previously by original owners, so required twice in 220+ kms. Averages out less than the E39! The others, Either I brought as basket cases, for were purely for stripping. Hell the EJ25 in my VW Van used to haul close to 3 tonnes happily. And anybody who thinks any "Dealer" is the be all and end all of servicing is SADLY mistaken! Regardless of make. They're variable, at best. Just like Independents!

So, how do I work out the imperial MPG on my electric bike?