Allanw

I should think he charges extra if you make him keep the jap one

I really think scan it, like Glenn says... it might be something REALLY easy... Anything else is just guess work for the meantime. (Also - if you have it scanned, the fault code doesn't always point to a faulty item - it needs to be interpreted and diagnosed - O2 sensor out of range codes can actually be a split hose, rather than a faulty sensor)

It's always hard to hear nioises properly in videos, but that sounds like a backfire to me - wierd. Are you sure it's mechanical, or could it be popping in the exhaust (or intake)? I'd check very carefully for an intake boot leak, though I don't think it is that - it's just VERY common. I'd also plug it in and look at the live data, to see if there are any readings out of spec - such as Vanos advance, mixture etc. You don't appear to be getting a malfunction light, so I assume it's not registering as a misfire. Does it do that as soon as you start it cold, or does it take maybe 10 to 30 seconds before it starts running wierd? Also, if you start it cold, and drive off instantly, does it do it? (like start, put it in drive and go - no waiting) Does it ONLY do it at idle? it you hold the revs at say 1000 or 1500 with no load (park), does it still do it? The thing with an M54, is they retard the exhaust timing like crazy when cold to heat the cats up (dump unburnt fuel into the exhaust). They have been known to get bad enough to cause stalls, though it affects the 3.0 the most. Bad Vanos seals can cause this, though you don't normally get the popping or knocking (I really can't be sure from the video what the noise is). It could even be a coil pack, or spark plug that stuggles to ignite the cold start fuel mixture, but is fine when the engine is warmed up. Even an exhaust leak can cause popping as air ges sucked into the exhaust, but shouldn't affect the revs like that.

Probably better to buy new - using an old one can be more trouble than they're worth.

You're assuming they haven't lost it...

You can buy genuine BMW retrofit kits in the UK/Europe (I got one for ours). it comes with a basic form of self-levelling. It's almost impossible to retrofit the full E39 self levelling system. Ebay, or ebay.de The Xenons are OK, the halogens are complete crap on the E39. neither is stunning, though the xenons are vastly superior. Self-levelling and washers with xenons are required to "work if fitted", but are not actually required in the UK - the wording is funny.

Our E39 is polybushed right through the front - no harshness and certainly doesn't feel any harder than the standard bushes were (and they were poked). Best thing about polybushes, is the are easy to get in and out - no press, so can usually be done on the car. Often cheaper the new OEM type too If they going to worry about BS like that, they'd need to worry about lower profile tyres, aftermarket rims, cheap-ass tyres and worn (but not leaking or rooted) shocks too. They don't though.

Wrong thread bro.

Tell her to slow down to 75, and cross the centreline on every corner using only secondary roads with poor visibility. It'll take longer to get anywhere, but the cops will pay ABSOLUTELY NO ATTENTION to her whatsoever I honk at ANYONE crossing onto my side, and it's not that unusual for it to be a cop car taking a shortcut around town along my road. None have turned around yet... It would be nice if they did - I have a dash cam

Those plastic pulls to open the front will last forever... ... like all the other plastic bits on a BMW... And the "emergency door opener"... that breaks as soon as you use it (unless you remember that time you read the manual once), and presumably means you can't get out in an emergency...

It's not a 4 cylinder one The 6's don't haemorrhage like the 4's

Yep. The 6 cylinder versions will probably actually save you money long term. Plus someone might actually want to buy it come selling time - the 4 cylinder ones (N42 engine???) might be better known by then! (plus the 6's are generally more desirable, have better resale, go better, and aren't really hungry at all)

Ahhh.. the ABC of Kei cars The Honda Beat and Suzuki Cappuccino were the B and C. I had a Cappo for quite a few years. Beat: Cappuccino:

You jacked it up and fitted swampers????

Prince of darkness (and misfires).

hmmmmm... aja540i was replacing them about yearly I think, in his E39 - I think the were genuine he was using too (it usually is). Last set may have been whiteline poly bushes??? The stock ones didn't cope well anyway.

The MY02's aren't a bad tyre - I had them on our old Impreza. For not more more money (like Andy says!), you can get the RE002, which is a stunning tyre for the money! They really perform - The E39 and the Touran both have them now. I got a set of RE002's for the Touran a couple of months ago, in 225/45/17's for under 800 (I think it was $740) as there was a buy 4 for the price of 3 sale and I usually get a good deal from my tyre guy anyway. If it's not urgent, wait for the next sale

You could get 4 to 6 motorbikes in the gap though In reality, the BMW driver probably arrived first, having no clue how to do it, so the Toyota driver thinks "Screw it! I can fit... ish!" We know what those BMW drivers are like!

Check out the parking at a hospital near you... hopefully it's not the surgeons who can't judge proximity of sizes... At least in that pic above, they got two cars into the space available.

Yep - sounds like expansion tank / radiator.... or any one of the old plastic cooling system parts Good time to buy a massive box of cooling system parts and tip them into the engine bay.

You best long term solution is to recover it. They all crap out eventually. There are some Ebay sellers who claim to sell the "correct" fabric, but it reality on a car that won't be a coolectable classic anytime soon, something close will be fine. If you go the way of recovering - buy the correct glue - standard spary on ADOS will sag on the first decent hot day - you want stuff that says on the can that it's suitable for headlinings (Wurth Extra Strong Spray Adhesive is a good one).

It's a common E39 thing - at least you don't live in the UK, where the boot lid, wheel arches, sills and everything under the car rusts too! If its the normal stuff - you may find it never gets any worse for many years... but you could always scrape the top off, sand it back a bit, clean it up with some rust converter and more sanding, then etch prime it and go over it with some touch up paint.

Haha.

///Mmmmm, nice! I almost like the wheels...