jeffbebe
-
Content Count
4054 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
90
Everything posted by jeffbebe
-
I've texted Alan to ask so hopefully can get back to you soon. UPDATE: Pit lane garages will be open if shelter is needed.
-
It'll withstand any temps that the plastic you're painting will withstand. It's not suitable for metal and I'll be using high heat paint for the manifolds and valve cover (as I did for the engine cover, though, in hindsight, that was probably unnecessary and would have been way less hassle with Kyrlon). May redo it at some point.
-
I think the chrome finish would act as a barrier between the paint and the plastic. Don't think the paint would bond with the chrome finish just as normal paint will not adhere properly. Sand the chrome off and it would work. Or just leave it... It's only a phone!
-
It's been discussed many times before. There is no right answer as various people have said above, and is entirely dependent on the state of each individual car, it's upkeep, etc. I've had great Singa and Jap imports and sh*t ones. Topic closed as we don't need to discuss it all over again. Just use the search function to find more fruitless topics about the 'best' origin of imports.
-
Only stockist I've found in NZ is http://www.hollywoodprops.co.nz/expendables/paint-spray-cans/. Make sure you get Krylon Fusion if you're painting plastic as it actually bonds with the plastic.
-
Going to try out the Krylon paint on the washer tanks next... Get rid of that ugly yellowing plastic.
-
Still no sign of the new shocks so have been continuing work on getting the engine bay straight. Painted the air boxes a couple of days ago using Krylon Fusion paint (which is awesome and physically bonds to plastic so it won't peel). Came out well. This is what it looked like when I bought it... And now...
-
On a fun scale of 0-10 with 10 being really fun, that pic is definitely a zero.
-
e39 Xenon Headlight Adjuster Repair - Who can do it?
jeffbebe replied to Arma's topic in Maintenance
Didn't have any problems with the adjusters I bought but have heard of the issue Allan mentions. -
Helmut!
-
e39 Xenon Headlight Adjuster Repair - Who can do it?
jeffbebe replied to Arma's topic in Maintenance
Yep, I bought some spares for my E39. I cracked the headlight open using heat when I did the adjusters in mine, was a bit of a PITA but easy enough. It's virtually impossible to get a heat gun to soften the glue evenly all round to crack so you'll need an oven big enough to fit the lightl. I think you heat to around 70-75°c (remember most of the DIYs are in °F and if you mix up your °s you'll melt your light!). I'd say moderate to high risk of damaging the light housing this way, Martin's way is much better but not sure if it's easier/harder. EDIT: I used this DIY http://blog.bavauto.com/1835/bmw-e39-5-series-floppy-headlights-replace-adjusters/ -
Front seats in the 8 look doable but the rear seat looks difficult! Would love a colour change but not sure I'm prepared to pull mine apart to make a pattern... It could take me months to finish it!!
-
It was on TM for around $19-20K but if he offered $8K you should have grabbed it! Looks in pretty good nick and relatively low mileage. I'd buy it as a spare in a heartbeat if I had the cash. EDIT: But be under no illusions that it will be a cheap car to own!
-
e39 Xenon Headlight Adjuster Repair - Who can do it?
jeffbebe replied to Arma's topic in Maintenance
I have some spare brand new adjusters, you're welcome to have them, Adeeb. -
Unlimited kms if you live in Auckland as you're unlikely to ever need to drive very far
-
Don't think this was the one I saw but it has quite a bit of info about retrofitting an E60 HUD. In this thread they're just discussing fitting an HUD that is available for the E60 into a car that didn't have it from factory so I'm guessing there will be a lot more work to make it work in your M3. http://5series.net/forums/e60-parts-accessories-mods-22/hud-retrofit-parts-list-69022/
-
Will try and track it down. Can't remember what model they retrofitted it into.
-
There are lots of HUDs on fleabay but suspect a lot of them are pretty cheap and nasty. You could try and track down a wrecked late model bimmer and pillage the HUD kit to retrofit but not sure if you could buy the right coated glass windscreen for an E36. I'm sure I saw a thread on one of the US boards about this retrofit but can't find it now.
-
I'm with Swann but it's classic car insurance. Includes $20K agreed cover, track day cover, OE glass cover, roadside recovery and unlimited kms. Just had to show that it is not a daily driver and is garaged. I pay $300 fully comp on a V12 but I am 40.
-
Do you mean the bush #15 in this diagram? The centre tie rod (#9) and Pitman arm (#10) are both new. I've checked the swivel joint on the steering column and it seems fine and there doesn't seem to be any play in the steering box, though there is definitely a wee bit of play in the column which I suspect is the worn bush I mentioned earlier where the column goes through the firewall but not sure it would be responsible for the violent shudder over bumps. Probably shocks and possibly one or two bushes.
-
Brilliant, Tom. My seats await you... EDIT: You did a great job, bet you wished you glued it now! Does it slip at all on the leather underneath?
-
Yep, going to try and do that this week.
-
No #7 connects to the steering box. Have solved one issue; the collar nut on the upper steering column had been tightened way too tight (presumably in an effort to eradicate the play in the wheel) which was stopping the steering wheel adjustment from working correctly. There is now, no longer any play in the wheel at any setting. Woohoo. However, the shake in the wheel over bumps is still there and a new issue has arisen: a single nasty clunk when turning under heavy load at low speed. Wondering whether I could have over tightened the universal joint or if the strut bar has amplified a worn bush somewhere. Will have to get it up on a hoist for a proper steering test.
-
Any way to check the universal joint without removing it? Doesn't seem to be any play in it but perhaps you can't tell til it comes out. The track rod looks pretty new so don't think it's that.
-
No problems fitting the universal joint and the top spindle was pretty easy too apart from the snap ring which was a bit of a b*tch to remove without the right tools but I got there in the end. Unfortunately, it still hasn't sorted out the problem; although the steering response is better the judders through the steering wheel over any pumps is really bad. The suspension all looks pretty new but the shocks are worn and I have replacements on their way, I'm hoping that sorts out the root cause but the play in the steering column is still an issue. There's is no play at the steering box end of the column which is encouraging and I've tightened the bolt on the swivel joint so there is now no play where the splined end of the lower column fits into it. But at the top of the lower column where it connects to the universal joint there is still a fair bit of play. I think the only thing I haven't eliminated yet is the bush (#9) in the diagram below which is, of course, a discontinued part. Awesome.
