aja540i

It also looks a lot like it hit it going backwards! Good effort!

"Convertible", not "soft top". You can see the panel gap on the C pillar where the roof folds.

Why would you clean them ? They'll be black!! (Is it just me that doesn't clean wheels?)

Agreed!Have run k&n filters in my last 4 cars, have NEVER replaced a maf sensor. Also, it doesnt hurt to clean your intake system once in a while, whatever filter you run.

Clear coat will make them much easier to clean, unfortunately polished aluminium is one of the worst things to get paint or powdercoat to stick to, thats why it peels off all the time! If you are happy to polish them every week, dont bother with the clear coat, if you are lazy like me, powdercoat them black so you only have to clean them once a year!

The trick is getting the two shafts (engine and gearbox) lined up EXACTLY. You may need to make a special jig that holds the 2 shafts in place while you weld the bits together, or a dummy shaft that locates the centres of both plates. I dont think the sand casting is as expensive as it sounds, remember with sand casting they cant reuse the mold, so every casting is a "one off". If you make the pattern the casting might be quite cheap, it will be the machining afterwards that is expensive! Good luck!

You can just run the cam, but you will miss out on a lot of the power, and may have driveability issues, rough idle, cold starting etc.If you are paying for the cam, include the chip in your budgeting. You will need to do it sooner or later if making power is your goal.

Go to repco, get a k&n filter kit, clean the filter with the proper cleaner and re oil it, way cheaper than getting a new one. So many people get them and then never bother cleaning them - pointless! Like 3pedals said, do the stuff that is easy to change back if you don't like it, if you are after more intake noise you could take all the sound deadening out of the engine bay too, but i wouldn't recommend it.

200hp from an n/a m10 will mean doing everything, cam, high comp pistons, head work, hd valve springs, rocker arms, balancing, twin carbs or aftermarket ecu, bore out to 2L, etc, etc. I am a fan of the m10, but it is probably cheaper to go bigger in an e30, not too much hassle from what i understand. Having said that, can you get a 200hp m20 without spending any coin on it? I am just looking into an m10 build and i am hoping to get 150 hp from a 2.0 L, and spending about $1000 all up.

If its anything like the e21 there will be several different spring rates for that car depending on model, spec, engine etc. The springs from a 6 cylinder car will probably be harder than the springs from a 4 cyl. Also, there's probably a pretty big difference price wise between boge and koni shocks! Decide what you want to do, get the best suspension you can afford now, or save up for the best suspesion you can get. Whatever you decide make sure you do it properly, no cut springs, and get your shocks shortened.keep in mind you will have to change your set up if you put a heavier motor in later on. Have fun!

It can be done without the Y piece but its faster, easier, and neater looking if you can one. Muffler shop should be able to get one no problem?

I always do mine myself, but $150 sounds about right, its a bit more than just chucking a tip on and throwing some welding at it!

If you increase the power more than 25 % over standard you need a cert. I dont know how your mate is getting away with that one!! (Actually i do, the testing station guys dont know their jobs!!) It will be pretty straight forward if its all factory parts, but they will do a brake cycle test etc. Good luck.

I have used kwik strip in Avondale, if they are polished you will need to polish them again afterwards and get them clear coated to keep them nice. I have had a couple of sets stripped and powder coated, it makes them real easy to keep clean!

If the paint is ok then mothers wheel and tire cleaner is good, if the paint is gone and its down to the ali then dip stripping or sand blasting is the only thing that will get them clean!!

Move to a better neighbourhood?

Bunnings has it.

Have you tried 3m vhb. Its clear double sided tape, and once its on, it stays on. (Assuming the sticker stays stuck to the light unit)

I think you will find that adding seats to a vehicle that didnt come with them will require a cert. If it was a 7 seater and someone took a row out you can put them back in ok, but if the factory didn't fit them from new, you can't just bolt them in and go for wof.

Looks to be in reasonable condition, but have only taken rocker cover off. Flywheel to crank pully, sump to rocker cover, starter and alternator, no manifolds, alternator seems shagged. Have turned over by hand, but haven't had running. Goes on TM tomorrow night if not sold here, $450.

Agreed, thats why mine are jbl now!

I am putting forward the suggestion that there is no such thing as gratuitous revving in an e39 540i ! Looking good. Sounds good too.

Mine were nokia speakers, including the factory sub.

I have changed mine myself and there are a couple of things to be wary of, USE THE PROPER FLUID!!! Its expensive ($20 per litre) but it is critical!! Clearance under the car is a pain, you will need some kind of pump to fill the box afterwards. The car needs to be LEVEL and at operating temperature to check the fluid level, picture yourself upside down under a hot car pulling out the filler plug to check the level - 2 or 3 times!! You will not get all the old fluid out yourself, so you may want to do it again in 6 months to make sure the worst of the old fluid is gone, even then it will still have some scum in it. Unless you are still really keen, i recommend getting it flushed, and a new filter and gasket. If you are still really keen i have an electric oil pump that has only been used for bmw trans fluid, you can borrow if you want. Good luck either way