aja540i

Go to repco, get a k&n filter kit, clean the filter with the proper cleaner and re oil it, way cheaper than getting a new one. So many people get them and then never bother cleaning them - pointless! Like 3pedals said, do the stuff that is easy to change back if you don't like it, if you are after more intake noise you could take all the sound deadening out of the engine bay too, but i wouldn't recommend it.

200hp from an n/a m10 will mean doing everything, cam, high comp pistons, head work, hd valve springs, rocker arms, balancing, twin carbs or aftermarket ecu, bore out to 2L, etc, etc. I am a fan of the m10, but it is probably cheaper to go bigger in an e30, not too much hassle from what i understand. Having said that, can you get a 200hp m20 without spending any coin on it? I am just looking into an m10 build and i am hoping to get 150 hp from a 2.0 L, and spending about $1000 all up.

If its anything like the e21 there will be several different spring rates for that car depending on model, spec, engine etc. The springs from a 6 cylinder car will probably be harder than the springs from a 4 cyl. Also, there's probably a pretty big difference price wise between boge and koni shocks! Decide what you want to do, get the best suspension you can afford now, or save up for the best suspesion you can get. Whatever you decide make sure you do it properly, no cut springs, and get your shocks shortened.keep in mind you will have to change your set up if you put a heavier motor in later on. Have fun!

It can be done without the Y piece but its faster, easier, and neater looking if you can one. Muffler shop should be able to get one no problem?

I always do mine myself, but $150 sounds about right, its a bit more than just chucking a tip on and throwing some welding at it!

If you increase the power more than 25 % over standard you need a cert. I dont know how your mate is getting away with that one!! (Actually i do, the testing station guys dont know their jobs!!) It will be pretty straight forward if its all factory parts, but they will do a brake cycle test etc. Good luck.

I have used kwik strip in Avondale, if they are polished you will need to polish them again afterwards and get them clear coated to keep them nice. I have had a couple of sets stripped and powder coated, it makes them real easy to keep clean!

If the paint is ok then mothers wheel and tire cleaner is good, if the paint is gone and its down to the ali then dip stripping or sand blasting is the only thing that will get them clean!!

Move to a better neighbourhood?

Bunnings has it.

Have you tried 3m vhb. Its clear double sided tape, and once its on, it stays on. (Assuming the sticker stays stuck to the light unit)

I think you will find that adding seats to a vehicle that didnt come with them will require a cert. If it was a 7 seater and someone took a row out you can put them back in ok, but if the factory didn't fit them from new, you can't just bolt them in and go for wof.

Looks to be in reasonable condition, but have only taken rocker cover off. Flywheel to crank pully, sump to rocker cover, starter and alternator, no manifolds, alternator seems shagged. Have turned over by hand, but haven't had running. Goes on TM tomorrow night if not sold here, $450.

Agreed, thats why mine are jbl now!

I am putting forward the suggestion that there is no such thing as gratuitous revving in an e39 540i ! Looking good. Sounds good too.

Mine were nokia speakers, including the factory sub.

I have changed mine myself and there are a couple of things to be wary of, USE THE PROPER FLUID!!! Its expensive ($20 per litre) but it is critical!! Clearance under the car is a pain, you will need some kind of pump to fill the box afterwards. The car needs to be LEVEL and at operating temperature to check the fluid level, picture yourself upside down under a hot car pulling out the filler plug to check the level - 2 or 3 times!! You will not get all the old fluid out yourself, so you may want to do it again in 6 months to make sure the worst of the old fluid is gone, even then it will still have some scum in it. Unless you are still really keen, i recommend getting it flushed, and a new filter and gasket. If you are still really keen i have an electric oil pump that has only been used for bmw trans fluid, you can borrow if you want. Good luck either way

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/m/auction-696884153.htm

I had mine done a few years ago, theres a bmw workshop in town that has the lifetime fluid in their trans flush machine, budget at least $300, but when i did mine it was worth every dollar. You can / should drop the sump pan off the box and chuck in a new filter and gasket at the same time, only another $60 or so from memory. Sounds like you're getting a few of the common problems with a 540 all at once!!

Yeah, different strokes for different folks and all that, but that's focus xr5 turbo money and i know which one i'd rather own!! Just saying, for the money, you could do better!

Yeah, like they took the worst bits from all those 3 and threw them together!!

I'm a big fan of buying cars thar are "different", but there are a lot of things i would do with 18k before i bought that, for example, i got an email from this Nigerian prince....

If im replacing the 540i with a diesel, its going to have to have 300 hp before i do any tinkering!! ( plus if its a newish diesel i wont be doing much tinkering myself)

I'm thinking i might get a diesel when i grow up!!By the time i get sick of the e39 there should be some seriously good diseasels around for reasonable money, mmmmm torque!