QuickSilver

Yes Awesome save for the win. My personal favourite is when there is a mirror/glass in front of you at the lights heading into a right turn. You get the full view, frontal, then whilst turning - just awesome. A killer in rush hour though

I'm glad to see you have the obligatory insulation tape on the water level sensor plug. Mines securely taped up too Where are you going to mount the SC? Side/front/top? Keep DRINKING!

You'll get some cash for it for scrap metal.

LOL!!! Yes. Awesome. Looks good Graham, was your aircon still even working?

Great one Dave, good to see its being put to use! Whats the time frame on this 335?

I hadn't realized bimmersport had gone international

I blink for one second and miss another project by David?! Awesome Cant wait to see it, which of the m30's are you putting into this one, have you found a use for the block from my old one? - Look forward to progress!!!

Yessss! Graham this will be bad ass. Beer count should be above 70 atleast. Dont forget on the day of first driving to slow your drinking atleast 1 hour prior to hopping in! In regards to the mandatory grill removal - I never realised just how true that is I've removed it for reasons unknown and then re-installed it afterwards having never even gone near it lol. Good luck!!!!

Glenn this looks great! If you dont mind me asking, because I am curious, what sort of modification is needed in terms of wiring for this swap, Good luck (Although you dont need it)

LOL! Graham! Too much time on your hands!

I swear that is the best photo ever. Good luck with the sale, I hope it all goes well!

Keep em coming Graham, their all going into the metal vocabulary!

Have you actually removed anything and tried to see whats causing it? Or are we still on the same "where is it jamming" issue? I would remove the shroud or do something to see whats happening before proceeding.

Just to add to this, because my previous post just does not make sense even to me. Now, I meant the fitment inside the blue bubble, tighten that with a big or adjustable wrench and the problem should disappear. The fitment inside the pink is what contains the trans fluid and water wont be leaking from it.

On my old radiator I had a small leak at one stage, and this was coming from those too. What was happening is, the fitment that attaches into the radiator was loose, the pipes then screw into THAT fitment, as far as I'm aware the fluid runs through a metal pipe inside the rad cooling the fluid down. I dont know if that makes sense, but I tightend the bit that screws into the radiator (not the actual fitment of the pipe itself) and that fixed the problem.

No way, you need the pods mate Tip on skirts: I set the skirts up, clips in them in all, dabbed wet red paint on the end of the clips, held them up to the car, pressed them onto the sills, pulled away. - Voila, every hole perfectly lined up, marked out and ready for you to drill, I did this without fear, took me about 1.5 hours to do both sides and they sit perfectly.

Could be that the rad pipe at some stage has been difficult to remove from a fitting and the previous owner has simply cut it shorter as there is a bit of slack, this may explain why it doesnt simply sit out of the way like its supposed to, maybe if you have a spare one fit that and see, or pick yourself up a new one, it should easily clear the fan once tied back.

I've never had a fan shroud, I took it out after it broke, then the clips brok, then the fan caught on it, then it half fell off, so finally I decided I could do better without it. I have not had any problems since, I do however have a sump guard which protects my fan and rad etc from getting hit by flying debris of the road, therefore for me it wasnt too bad to get rid of the shroud.

For convenience, buy a manual 325 as it has everything you want. However there are plenty of people around (not just mechanics who charge through the teeth) who would be willing to help for alot cheaper, and thus would probably still be economical to do the swap(s). I did my manual conversion for just over $400, with the kit being $300 and tools and oil that I missed adding up the last $100. Its always good to have a mint e30 body as I think their getting harder and harder to find mint.

Graham - I'm 99.9% sure that all m20b25's use the cam mounted dizzys, as they all use motronic, and all motronic setup, be it 1.1 or 1.3 uses that setup. Plus I have a few mates with PFL 325's that I've done work on, and they are all the same. Only the ljet use the block mounted dizzys ( I dont know if others like kjet setups etc etc do, as I am referring to only m20 motors). - sorry if I was abrupt with my reply before was in a rush. Hows the project coming ? I'd be keen to hear some... as I wanna travel the SC route with my 2.7 as well... or is it under wraps until the big reveal Bmpower - Personally I agree with Graham, the viscous fan is a better option, and I wouldn't go near an electric fan, too much can go wrong to easily with electrics. If you're concerned simply about operating temp, I would invest my money in a better radiator. In regards to the shroud, nothing in particular needs to go badly wrong for it to start causing problems, they move, the clips break, their big and clumsy in a reasonably tight space, hell, I've heard that simply by being there they can obstruct the airflow so much that it can affect the temperature of the entire motor! Although I'm pretty sure thats extreme. Although your engine mounts are new, dont put blind faith in them, I would check them again just to make sure, after all it could happen by pure chance you get a defective part,

It's possible that if the tranny mounts are that far gone that maybe under hard pull the motor tips back far enough, which then makes the fan hit/jam or whatever, but I dont think this is very likely unless the cross member is loose, as even if the mounts are totally stuffed the transmission is still being supported by the cross member itself. Did you not say this problem was happening before you replaced the parts also? It might be that it was the shroud in the first place or a pre-existing problem, why not remove the shroud if only to get a better view of the area so you can see whats happening, then you dont have to guess at it because it will be as clear as day.

No, he has a complete pre-facelift m20b25. The pre-facelift m20b25 use distributor mounted on the end of the camshaft also, but uses the older computer system motronic 1.1 and has the pre-faceift diagnostics plug. All the other PFL bits are there too, ie drivers side expansion thank, the waterpump with the extra fitting, the two gearbox sensors, etc etc From what I can see the motor is not a hybrid, although I've seen them too. Also, all the FANS are the same, (IE the plastic bit) I am unsure if there is a variation in the visous but I dont think so. The photos dont tell me much, but very often I've found that the shroud can be a huge source of problems, I know that the rad pipes in question can run very close to where the fan spins, but if tied out of the way shouldn't cause a problem. My best guess is that you fan is jamming possibly in the fan shroud, if its not, then at least with the fan shroud removed you can properly see what its jamming on and fix the problem. EDIT: If the fan is not visibly jamming on any of its sorroundings then that wouldm't that suggest that the viscous has died, or that the waterpump itself is jamming?

I have once incorrectly torqued up a head which gave crazy results. Did all the head bolts go down in order, and with correct settings?

Thanks mate thats great info, I'll go and have a look at them soon.

In keeping with "offers" threads. I shall offer $25 for the lot. Thanks