QuickSilver

David! Happy birthday, may the BMW gods shine upon your many projects I hope you had a great day! You deserve it.

That's a genuine motorsport! Even the rego comes back as a motorsport. THATS CHEAP! K's are irrelevant if everything is in good condition.

I love it!!!!

Yessss go JC! Im rocking two different CF's. And a set of dunks also

Excuse me?! I DID NOT SPEW! Edit: I can however confirm it was epic

Anyone have a project ISETTA that they want to boot? I remember a while back seeing a double sale, one project with a parts car, I'm more curious as to how much their currently fetching as I know their definitely becoming a rarity, but I'm still interested! Thanks all.

Better yet - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-217867000.htm Wof has expired, but its in good nick, I know that for a fact, and your going to be tracking it, its a realistic price for a good car. Edit: "Will be sold with new wof and reg" - win?

You shouldn't run into any problems, the auto's are the same. $600 is a good price for an engine swap, just make sure you get him to do all the usual things for piece of mind, IE cam belt, water pump, tensioner and auxiliary belts. Go for gold and get that manual swap sorted Edit: In regards to rebuilds. How deep are your pockets? It's always advisable to rebuild a motor, there's only positives to a new fresh rebuild, but most likely your motor will be just fine without one, unless its had some serious abuse or there is something wrong.

Just to clarify, it would most likely fit, but that's not the issue, I think there are two different bores, and also, there is a 3 outlet and a 2 outlet version, one uses a modulator (most commonly with ABS with the 2 outlet version) and also sometimes that modulator is used on a NON abs e30 with the 3 outlet BMC, so yep, just check which one u have.

Happy birthday ya dirty bastard. See you tomorrow - gotta get my drink ON!

they get in there when the coolant is removed, or flushed, or you take the thermostat out etc doing work on the cooling system, or the coolant runs low and air gets in the lines, theres plenty of ways for air to get into it, its not overly sealed off to the atmosphere

If the pipes going IN to the thermostat are hot, and the pipes exiting the thermostat are cold. Then that clearly shows that the thermostat is not opening. If both in an outlet pipes are hot from the thermostat, the w/pumps fine, the heads fine, the radiator fine, etc etc then it can only be bleeding. BELIEVE ME WHEN I SAY THIS! M20s are a BITCH to bleed. It once took me several DAYS to get mine bled, I am not kidding, I have never come across such a pain in the ass motor. Mine had a serious airlock, and what I ended up doing, is walking away frustrated, leaving it over night to cool down again. The next time I went to bleed it, I parked it up on an angle, drained all the coolant out one more time, filled the system up via the the rubber hoses, constantly squuzing them to get as many air bubbles out before I even started the car. Once this was done, and I took my sweet time, heater on full blast, it bled fairly quickly and without hassle. Edit: Make sure all the hoses are in their right places, and without unusual kinks or bends that can impair water flow,

Negative on that one, it will run fine with MTL, but the correct fluid, is fully synthetic G3 ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) It even states it on the side of the gearbox if you still have the sticker.

What about later motronic? (moto 1.3 specifically) Is there a way to setup a diagnostics system for yourself? IE with a laptop and correct software? Or does this not work at all? Edit: Sorry to hijack

If my memory is not failing me, then I think this seller is a member of bimmersport, (1 or 2 posts) not active, however when I had my e24 (which sadly was never going to be in a drive-able condition) I sold him a the tail lights that are on this fine vehicle I may be getting confused with someone else, but I recognise the car. Its badass.

Judge dredd anyone? Ill take ten.

Actually, the new priveas blend in really well outside schools etc which is where I see camera vans most of the time, as they ticket you even at 55kph outside schools. Looks like like a soccer moms van Theres one out west I've seen a few times, it does its rounds and has a few usual spots,

Hello everybody, I have a brake fluid leak, (yes there is no need to point out to me that brakes are a crucial part of the car, I understand they involve stopping the vehicle, and I know they are important for safety) I know this much, it's coming from the booster/master cylinder area. (The brake fluid underneath gives it away) Tomorrow I investigate, but before I do, I was just curious if there are any common areas for a master cylinder/line/booster to fail, as I'd like to minimize the time to find it. Any info would be great, E30 -327i (facelift motor) NON Abs.

I'll ad to the positives coming in I appreciate all the effort and hard work that always goes into this forum, by admin, moderators, and members alike, the events are great, the people are great, and the cars are fantastic. Thanks to you all! Top stuff. (Obligatory forum slang coming up) BSFTW!

Lots of $$$ Oh and your soul Graham. (of course I don't actually have any idea) Luke. Looking f**king awesome. What else can I say?

More than likely I'd say that this is either being caused the the gearbox shaft seal, or the engine main seal. Both jobs require removal of gearbox. However, as mentioned above, e30's love to leak, valve cover gasket would be the most likely other problem, My 2.7 was leaking from in between the block and head, and that was because I had a cracked head and a multitude of other problems, new head sorted that. And I've had a leak from the valve cover gasket, and also a slight leak from a sump. But their were both tiny leaks. edit: A very common leak is the rubber "U" seals at the front and back of the valve cover, they will leak before anything else.

sh*t dude, congratulations, thats a huge amount of work in record time. THUMBS UP!

Don't be stupid Ryan. Thats where the hyper drive goes. Its there for easy in-car access and calibration, would you REALLY walk OUTSIDE the car to punch in co-ordinates? I don't think so.

I did mention this a few posts back lol. Its O.K go large atm. I dont do nearly as much downloading as I used to, infact its mostly for my PS3 at the moment, and gaming etc seems to be giving me good speeds. So I'm not tooooo worried. But it's definitely slower in downloads than our old Telstra PDQ setup used to be. But then.. that was only 10gigs a month, for a bigger price tag soo... all pros and cons considered go large is still the best bang for buck (for me, as there are about 4 people sharing it at different times)

I've checked BNT for m20 clutches before, and they've given me a quote, albeit ridiculous and over the top. Hence I went elsewhere.