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Everything posted by e30ftw
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Yeah all it did was sorta bend the top down against the bottom and crumple it up some more lol
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Gonna actually get a bit of sheet metal and slant it from the bottom of the valance to above that bent bit. Painted black should be less visible plus serve some purpose in ducting air towards the radiator from those vents.
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Already PM'd with an unbeatable offer, so consider this thread over
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Couple minor fixes needed + front wound down to give it a sick stance. Other than that she's pretty much done. That bent radiator support is REAL obvious through the vents in the valance FML. Suggestions?
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I used to walk out of the toilet at my work and my boss would be like 'did you have a good play on your phone texting' ... 'Does it smell like it?' Fair enough though your boss does pay you to do work and not sit on the toilet all day - we're told get it out on our breaks.
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Looks sweet. Need smaller tyres IMO
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Watch out for the c104 connector.. it's a 3pin plug coming off the engine loom right after the ECU connector. If your new engine has this, or your e30 has this you need to connect it or else the car will not start and you will have no tacho. I did this for a previous swap where I put a pre-FL m20b20 into a facelift m20b20 with the circle plug. Had to change plugs then wire up the c140 which is ECU power, Tacho and fuel consumption IIRC.
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I wonder how much that cost..
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Yeah he means you have bigger problems then just finding the elephant trunk bit lol. I don't have one and I dont have that - Maybe the water gets trapped behind that sound deadening and the moisture started to rust it..
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Woah you should get that fixed....
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I want like a 3.46 or 3.64 or something. 4.45 is way too high
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need a good diff, dont care small case or medium case just need a diff to use for abit. lower the ratio the better. cheaper the better too.. or if someone had one i could borrow for abit that would be mint
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Haha. When my one craps out I will.. I'm going to have the motor checked properly by a pro. The engine is running sweet just the small leak problem needs to be sorted out, Only other issue is the exhaust is LOUD... I kind of like the sound of an m20 over this m50 but it does sound friggn tough.
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IIRC the fuel system had reached it's peaked (maybe just the injectors?) .. So it was actually potentially capable of more power if it had higher flowing injectors and fuel pump.. but then again it is a stock internals m50!
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Haha nah i can't get better pics exhaust manifolds etc are in the way. I think its really weird though yeah, motor doesn't have high k's or anything. I checked the rear heather hose and there was no water or anything around there or down the head to that corner that was the first thing I checked as I wouldn't think a headgasket would blow outwards of the head especially on a stock motor. I'm gonna double check it tomorrow before I start pulling things apart but yeah exhaust was hot so I wasn't keen to stick my hand in there anywhere lol. Seriously looks like it was seeping from there though. I hope I am being a drama queen / blonde moment and it is the heaterpipe and that I didn't check it properly. Not keen to start pulling an m50 apart lol.. *edit* It only starts leaking after about a couple mins of running, thats why I noticed it today ebcause the car was running for more than it usually has been after getting it running sorta right - gave it abit of time to start warming up to top up the coolant. I heard something dripping onto the exhaust and burning, I couldn't see what it was so I turned the car off and it happens about once every 20 seconds a drip drops down onto the exhaust and burns.. I jacked the car up to see where it was leaking out off and could only see the rear HG bit with coolant lined around it and a drip coming off of it. I checked the rear heater hose and across the top of the gearbox to see if coolant was seeping out of the hose and down the edge of the head/block but it was dry as far as I could see. If it was headgasket maybe it would leak abit faster or something, especially with the pressure and all? Unless it is a one hell of a pin d*ck sized leak.. On the verge of blowing or something haha. drips on the exhaust: slightly clearer pic:
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Thinking about going MLS HG while im doing this. Future proofing a lil hah.
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Yeah i'm gonna replace a whole heap of stuff. Headgasket and the works
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Coolant seeping from between the block and head. Looking from the block upwards. Right at the back of the head there is coolant seeping from the headgasket and dripping on to the exhaust. Heard it dripping and burning on the exhaust
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Well hey I'm not too worried at the moment. Have to take it all completely apart now anyways. Not good..
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Just when i thought I was finished.. I'm starting a whole new project again...
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No. As said, I blocked of brake booster line and it did the same - eliminating brake booster being the leak. TPS tested out fine. All items are there the PCV system remains, the only change was fuel evap delete and that line is blocked off into the throttlebody. The issue is ICV. I blocked it off and the car runs with throttle slightly open. If throttle closed car dies.. But I can get it to idle fine with foot on the throttle. Revs fine etc now. But have now found an even bigger problem thats nipped me in the butt..
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Nah, my throttle is remaining closed at all times so it is not the throttle cable being too tight or stuffed or anything. I've tested the TPS now and it's working correctly as per the Bently..
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Nah it gets higher and higher then hits and stays at 3500rpm. I tryed heaps of things now and couldn't figure it out.. unplugging TPS didn't do much from what I remember.