qube

this is the one that used to have the V8 in it. looks like its been converted back to normal..

bloody hell.. hope you're alright now Glenn!

this is like the lower km twin of the one I sold to @Mikan

for me it goes CIC > no iDrive > CCC. of course NBT etc is obviously the best but if I had to choose I would go no iDrive over the CCC. But then again, nowadays you can convert CCC to CIC easily and cheaply enough. Anyway, not the important factor in this anyway. As KwS said, you will need to budget for eventually - hpfp, injectors, coils, charge pipe - on top of that probably waterpump and thermostat (bloody expensive locally) also might as well get a boost pipe and intake pipe cuz why not, probably also need a new battery at some point as they all seem to go sh!t after about 10 years especially the lower kms ones (we had to replace ours last year for the 2005 E91 45,000kms). Anyway, great cars but not cheap to run/maintain.

i think the premium is on the low 30k mileage more than having the tune. Also a relatively rare le mans blue amongst the common black/silver/white and also that its NZ new. But then again, its not facelift, doesnt have CIC idrive or any idrive for that matter, no sunroof, nothing else in terms of "options" its just a low mileage car with probably nothing replaced in it except maybe a couple of oil services at most. The problem is its 10 years old and parts will need replacing on top of that huge premium then suddenly its a 35k car.

assuming is bad also why did you go to a different shop and just do another balancing for no reason? you should have gone back to the same shop and tell them about the issue and let them figure it out.. bit late now.. check if the tyres are mounted correctly - directionally, inside face outside face, wider on the rear and narrower on the front etc.

Very tidy and low kms but its a 335i that will only depreciate in value and get worse in condition as time passes. For me this is a pointless car but for you/your family member this may not be the case. The car itself is NZ new which is nice, a nice rare le mans blue colour, has some nice pretty bits, but also has the 19" wheels that are easily cracked over potholes etc, and because its low mileage probably hasnt had any plastic hoses/pipes replaced but still its 10 years old. You can pick up a reasonable condition 335i coupe for 15-20k these days and still have to spend a few thousand on maintenance etc but at the end of it you havent lost 10k on depreciation. But like I said, if you have the money, and want a tidy low kms exmaple to keep for a long time, then cant really go wrong. Also doesnt have iDrive which could be a good thing because the older ones are useless anyway and can break. just use a phone and a car mount. seriously though, 28k is a huge amount of money for a 10 year old car. You can pick up a F30 335i for not much more and it is heaps more advance in comfort and tech.

i hate how the rear windows have the dark tint and the front half looks naked

https://www.trademe.co.nz/1794599185 ?

more wear and tear on parts is a generic answer. depends on the stage of the tune and if the car has had maintenance items done in order to run the tune or if it is running it on stock parts. I would be weary and proceed with caution and do a lot of research. There should be plenty of "stock" examples but that doesnt necessarily mean its better than a tuned one. just really depends

what type of wheels do you have? is it genuine BMW? Maybe the tyre shop lost a hubcentric ring while taking off/putting on the wheels.

Now is the real last chance to buy an E46 M3 imo. (a decent one I mean) Last year there were heaps of E36 M3's now there is 1 or 2 rubbish ones for sale. By contrast there are heeeeaps of E9x M3's for sale and lots of decent ones too for very fair price. This will also change in a couple of years when the majority have hit 150-200kms (like some have already) and the lower mileage ones demand a premium again.

the waterpump is a very common and well known issue. The valvetronic shaft issue is known, not hugely common but not rare either. the shaft most likely caused the failure of the valvetronic motor. If it was just a valvetronic motor fault then you can run the car without it with just normal on/off throttle basically. unfortunately I dont because I change cars often and i like to do my own servicing usually but I didnt consider mechanical warranty due to personal habit and pros/cons etc. o well.

after being off the road due to a very expensive valvetronic motor and eccentric shaft replacement job, the waterpump died after just 40kms of driving..

will take if available

Just keep hodling u cant do much else now

haha bloody cryptos

so very nice

i did post the topaz blue one on here a few months ago (August 2018) , plate used to be "SHANE3" and asking price was around 30k back then. seems like its moved to wellington, got some nice photos and price bumped to 35k the black one for 33k nz new looks nice but its actually a MY02 not 2003.5 and hence PFL. still, probably the nicest one but also very plain nothing special which might be a good thing. unsure about big maintenance tickets though. what a tough market..

WBAGC420X0DC15758 looks like a 735iL according to the vin decoder

sure they are good but what car is it for? overkill and not necessary on all/any car.

My suggestion is remove the plates put a govt issue one on and dollar reserve it on trademe. Will be sold no matter what prob around 6k give or take. Better than waiting endlessly dealing with timewasters

do it!

There arent a lot of M3 owners here and even less that want to sell. Will be difficult to find