thorburn

Welcome and good luck. Hope you've done your study

Does anyone have access to a shop press that I can use for 10 minutes. I've maxed out(and probably broken) the 3 ton bottle jack I was using in my rig. Any help would be much appreciated

The lips of the gaurds are just too high. It looks good from the front and maybe even the back(minus the soiler). Anyone know what a bodykit like that would cost?

One option is to go to bmw with your licence plate details. From there they can get your vin and order you a key. I hope someone else knows of a cheaper option

quite a nice car Guy seems a bit too worried about smashing it up

I'm sure you can make the box section manifold work better. Is there any room to attach the wastegate to the exhaust housing. Like this:

Bump for headliner selling tonight

I think your manifold is the main cause of your creep I don't think venting to atmosphere is going to solve it. How much back pressure does your exhaust really have Really nice build though. What ecu or piggyback are you using?

Ronin's compound charged lotus is my favourite car. He has plenty of canyon vids with overlays of everything you could want to know

I'll do it for less then that.

bump. Red motorsport leather interior is going for $102 atm. I would be happier with $103

I think this is the part your after 25112225369 Easy enough to make your own I take it you have an early model g260

Door cards are here http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=457298526

Cheers Michael. Once my order arrives i'll weld the reinforcement plates to the new cross members. This will be so nice to do sitting at a table instead of upside down under the car I've started adding to the info. I haven't seen anyone else document doing this so I'll try mention all the important details. I also accidentally found petrol removes the goo left from removing the sound deadening. It seems to work better then turps

Miltek stainless centre section(cat delete) I do still have it. I will PM you with the details

Also have these wheels. Wanting $600 ono. 17x7 Will trade them for some 215 or 225 17inch tyres or other parts Oh and the boat is for sale too. But this isn't really a suitable forum

I've been waiting on my pelican parts order for a month now. But it is finally in the country. Lesson learnt, don't buy gearbox internals from pelican parts. The crossmembers have both been removed. I still need to clean up the area around them, some of the tacked areas and damaged areas. The front crossmember wasn't overly difficult to remove. After removing some sound deadening on the seat and slicing and folding the seat backing. It was quite easy to find and access all of the spot welds. There are some small welds in the corners where the crossmember meets the main chassis rail. This pic shows all of the spot weld positions and the lines of green show the welded part The rear crossmember was quite difficult to get out. Most of the spot welds are easy to find in the boot and spare wheel well. There are also welds going up the spare wheel well I'll update this with detailed pictures when the camera is charged On the drivers side back seat the panel has been forced up where the mounnt was slamming into the back seat. I got the new cross members from Coombes Johnston BMW. The pair cost about $500. I've nearly spent as much on parts as I have on the car now.

maybe a bad example, but same thing goes to the large volume of air between the turbo and engine Only rer mounted turbo setups i'm a fan of are the ones from underground racing

I'm guessing you don't back purge it either. Chill it's just constructive criticism. I'm no pro it's just logical to do it this way in most situations. How thin is that .7mm stainless sheet after you've fused it together, sanded and polished it? Sure if you don't have the money for filler rod and the weld doesn't need any strength it'll do. That is really the problem with others working on your. Some have a different opinion on what'll do

How much power do you want? how much do you want to spend? and how much can you do yourself You can't lighten a dual mass flywheel. Converting to a lighter flywheel isn't going to give you any noticeable power Getting a cam regrind should require a tune. I'm sure there are plenty of companies that can tune your standard ecu. If you have oxygen sensors before and after the cat you will have problems. Removing the cat might give you some more power. limited slip differntial, cams, exhaust and a tune (and maybe a new clutch and flywheel) would be all i'd do. This will save you the cost of needing to get a cert and will give you a bit more go in the top end

Manual shifter surround $50 Seatbelt reels and height adjusters $50 Tri spoke motorsport wheel with airbag http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=457295314 Fog lights with brackets from a motorsport bumper $60. Slight scuff damage to a corner of one

Black hood lining $1 reserve http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...944&ed=true

To add something more helpfull The s50b32 uses a 5 bar fpr Injectors are tested at 3 bar. So your injectors should really be flowing about 30lb.

You should use filler rod. It will make it easier to sand and polish and will giv you a stronger weld

are you maxing out your injectors? or are you planning to do so in the future? What has your 'tuner' recommended? As long as the tuner can make them idle, there is no such thing as too big