thorburn

I'd leave it where it is. Just make sure it's well sealed and wont pop off under pressure. If it is leaking back through the idle control valve put a one way valve inline with it. Also make sure your not pressurising the crank case. Are you using an sc14? would be interested in seeing photos and hearing more details about your setup.

I had a lot of help from the repo man when my car was going to be taken. There are definately nice ones out there.

How much are you wanting to spend? How much of the work can you do yourself? And how much time do you have to get it done? Why not turbo? If it were me i'd be pricing all of it up and posting up what you find. This way people can add to it the little bits you might forget. Sort out the tune or tune and engine machinist before diving in. If they are any good they should have some other answers for you

I'd scratch rising rate fuel pressure regulator off the list. I'm pretty sure you'll be on the upper limits of pump fuel by the time your maxing out 1000cc injectors. Unless your tuner has said otherwise Your engine bay is looking far too nice to crash around a track

which fuse is popping?

That mild steel wire would've made things tricky. All ways check what's stamped into the wire. Are you back purging the whole system? I'll be making some modifications to an lsd that i've picked up. Would love to hear how yours goes with more clutches. Are you changing the ramp angles as well?

For the drive by wire you could also go for a silver case g4 xtreme. Or go for a vipec ecu (same as link but for some reason has more features e.g. traction control) Hope you don't mind the ot discussion(ignore me if you do). How do you go about reversing the diff? flip it over and add more oil to satisfy the pinion?

Where are you from?

Where'd you find the engine? I'm currently on the lookout for one Depends on how much you want to spend and what you want it to do. The link g4 will run the the variable valve timing and valve lift that these engines have. They also seem to be the most comman aftermarket ecu used for these engines. Most popular ecu's will be able to control the avcs etc. I'm assuming your going to get rid of the drive by wire throttle? if not there are a few options but not many tuners that will help

They look great. I'll bet they come with a price tag

mag master in Tauranga are quite cheap and did a great job with my wheels. If your interested in something different i've got some style 19's that i'll be looking to sell soon

Just a stab in the dark here. Could be oil leaking in around the spark plugs

You'll need to get m3 evo strut tops and switch them from left to right. There are other ways of gaining camber for fitting wheels. Fitting washers (shims) between the strut and hub will gain more camber. It will also create a larger scrub radius

What are those coils from? You can come use my tig if you'd like to weld those tabs on

What area is her work in? Is there anything you want to live near? Most area's have good parts to them. Some parts of Claudlands, Nawton and Fairfield are a bit grim in my opinion.

The underside of the outer ball joint I have infront of me is 53.90mm The inside diameter that gets pressed in is 48.79mm If you decide to go for some inner's as well the underside dia is 49.81mm Inside is 40.50mm Press with pipe has worked fine for me.

I'll keep you updated on how it goes.

Why did you go back to stock?

The plastic and seals on the side tanks and expansion tank get brittle over time. The cores can get full of gunk(I think this is the technical term for it). Damaged fins reduce the efficiency of the radiator. Probably other cons but I think that's enough reason You could get lucky and get a good quality cheap second hand radiator. You might not be so lucky and overheat the engine again and blow a headgasket and/or warp the head. All depends on how much you have to spend and if your paying someone to replace it

If it's been overheated you might want to get a sniffer test done to make sure you don't have any combustion gasses in your cooling system. Maybe a leakdown test would be usefull as well just to make sure your headgasket and head are in decent condition I'd be replacing the radiator. Changing the radiator isn't overly hard if you've got the time. Plenty of DIY's out there

All has been bolted back together. Added some bilstein shocks, eibach springs, non evo m3 strut tops, new factory rtab's(will make some limiters for them soon), new subframe bushes, new fluids all around and probably some other bit's i've forgotten. Got the wheel alignment rig out and set it up. Really stoaked with how it works but need to make some adjustable height platforms with sliding plates on it to make it easier. I'm also looking into getting some scales for each corner. Will add some pictures of the rig at some stage It got a warrant with the usual strange looks. Then I sold it cheap to a mate. It'll have a bit more work done to it. Starting with finishing the suspension overhaul then doing the cooling system. With some pursauding it'll have some cams, stainless headers made by myself and a megasquirt ecu

getrag 250 or zf from a 328 or m3. You could use a 240 or 260 but they'll need a bit more modification Might be cheaper to sell and buy a manual one. Not sure if the computers need to be reflashed for a manual conversion

what pad options do you have with them?

32mm spanner can be found at any good tool store. Flathead screwdriver held between the bolts on the waterpump-I know it does sound rough but it's worked for me every time

Are the calipers painted? Looks great