thorburn

very nice. What clutch setup are you using?

I copied this procedure. http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/...ors/post/Bed-in

'Body roll decreases adds negative camber' would be a nicer way to put it. The majority of cars have a negative static camber value (the top of the tyre leans towards the car). "Beating body roll by dropping the car's center mass is a big win" - I do not agree with this. I believe for a lot of people it creates more problems then it solves. Yes lowering the car gives less leverage over the suspension "beating body roll". But here are some of the reasons I don't agree with it:(mostly talking about macpherson front struts) Hitting bump stops due to less suspension travel. Bump steer caused by different steering link travel compared with control arm travel. Roll centre otp causing unwanted camber changes during suspension travel Excessive static camber gained What happens when you lower the back end of an e30, e36ti or z3? Some of these are only due to excessive lowering 'Sway bars reduce traction because they lift the inside tire'- How much weight is being distributed to that inside tyre during body roll? It'd be nice if they explained why toe settings do what they do on the front and back. I'll add my view on this when i've got some time I hope my explinations make up for my lack of real experience

This time was just a dumb mistake. I was using a pick in the corner to get the seal out and got it stuck. Then got a bit rough with it. I'll phone a friend next time I attempt to remove a windscreen

zero from 3

No updates at the moment. In the middle of trying to buy a house. And i managed to buy a $500 190e that I'm trying to do a budget horry build on. megasquirt, holset turbo and cutting as many corners as possible I've got some time off during summer so hopefully i'll have time to put some parts into the car. It's a bit depressing seeing it sitting there. You wouldn't have any tips on removing windscreens? I'm so far zero from 2 at removing windscreens.

what is the downpipe made from? looks like stainless pipe Where do you tap into for the water feed? somehow get behind the thermostat

I have the proper tools. I'm sure we can come to some sort of agreement if you'd like to borrow them

How much are you wanting for it?

how cheap is a cheap build? that isn't a cheap turbo. That's a very short deadline. I'm looking forward to some updates. Log manifolds are fine. Wastegate placement is important though.

If that is the case what is suggested for a dirty old 8 blade Holset H1c edit: decided to not be lazy. What i've learnt from my google searching so far. The oil restrictor is there to give the turbo the correct oil pressure. Different engines have different oil pressures so the same turbo and restrictor isn't suitable for all vehicles Ball bearing turbos don't need as much oil pressure Journal bearings need some oil pressure just like main bearings on a crank Too much oil pressure destroys seals. Unfiltered oil feed lines like to clog restrictors and kill turbos I haven't yet been able to find any specifics on how much pressure you'd want a turbo to be seeing

Has just been stolen in Rotorua. No doubt it'll be in a ditch by now as it was tail happy enough in the dry Will be keeping an eye on trademe for the parts

wow. Does the person who made them do other intake manifold flanges? I'm trying to get something made for a merc What type of alloy is it?

What ratio are you spinning the charger at? Is it just running off the standard size crank pulley(couldn't quite make out where it was connected to)? Are you going to blow through the maf sensor? Piggyback, remap or different ecu coming with it? Either way it's looking great. I need to hurry up and rebuild my supercharger

What clutch and pp setup have you been using?

Just as you've said b20 engines have a narrow intake but look the same as a standard m50.

You could turbo it for around the same price and get plenty more power.

Will not bolt up. You'll need to make an adapter plate, modify the oil filter and the tps to get it to fit. To get it to run you'll also need to conjer something up whether it be a standalone or remap

happy birthday

yep I should've known. I've just gone for a weld on boss kit. Lifeline make a nice looking product and wilwood make a cheap 3 bolt option Have you decided on a steering wheel?

What ever you do don't get one from streetbitz www.photobucket.com/streetbitz

Have a look at the spray pattern of your injectors. I can't see any benefit in it. Running a seperate injector further upstream can cool down the charge. e.g.

yes that sounds like a great simple fix

rebuild or buy a new diff small case or medium case. If you've got the gear and time to rebuild it I can go into it in more detail

are the rc's for sale?