thorburn

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry354592 This might give you an idea as to what does what.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=...hg=26&fg=10 It would seem from the link that they don't

Would you be able to post up a photo? I'm doing the same thing but have an iron block. Unfortunately the current block will not be suitable because of the wear at the top of the bore. I would like to hear how you get on with the alloy block

getrag 250 box length is about 500mm m50/52 head is 660mm long not including front cover. Vanos front cover is maybe another 50mm width of engine with intake is about 550mm

Might need to get under your car and start measuring. I can't find anything on stock scrub radius' for e36 or e30's so I think it's going to be hard to find anything for an e39 8mm more in tyre diameter isn't going to be all that noticeable anyway.

Hadn't even considered that 87M3@NZ. Might re-do it like that when i'm earning money again. I did all the m3 suspension at once. So can't really say what the tops do by themselves. Steering is a bit more heavy then it was when it had non m bits in For a 3L M3 your just adding a little bit of camber. I wouldn't of thought steering would be noticibly heavier. You could get the camber from camber shims if you wanted to save on the expense of new tops

That's just the kind of reaction I was after. They sure are m3 strut tops. These are the switched m3 evo variety. I've also got some centered m3 ones somewhere in my stack of suspension.

All welded up. Final weigh in came to 3.5kg's Need to go to the fastener store and get some nuts that will sit under the platforms Not sure what i'll do for paint. It stands out enough as it is so probably something boring like black or grey.

I'm not following your math yet. Here is a picture because threads are better with pictures. Can you give more info on what your rolling radius was and what it is going to Going from this http://www.bmwdiy.info/alignment/index.html: steering axis inclination is: 14.8º camber is: -1.1º to -1.5º Assuming this is for your e39

Cheers, I was going for a butch look. Hopefully one day the rest of the engine bay will follow Just some boring 1.5mm thick, 25mm diameter steel. It doesn't weigh alot I'm a bit unsure as to what I will do about the plates going over the strut towers. They are currently 2.3mm plates(leftovers from some shelf) that sit on top of the humps. I'd really like to have them follow the shape of the strut towers but haven't yet thought of a nice way to do it.

Just tacked up. Heat is getting to me now, so will finish it up later Comments and criticism is welcomed I'll get some better photos when i'm done

Nice cage How have you done the dash bar? is it one solid bar that goes through the steering mount or 2 pieces? Does it go to the front struts?

Sadly not really. Had too much fun over summer Cut out the diagonal from the roof because it was too close to my head. Could have lowered the seat but would rather a nice driving position. With link bringing out the plug and play for m50's I have all the calibrations and some base maps. I had wasted a bit of time trying to figure it out for myself. So i'm rather happy it's all there Started making a strut brace today. I think it's got potential to look good. I know it will be solid. Should be able to finish it tomorrow. I've only just sent away for homologation and authority card etc.

I've had my xbrace in for a while. I've also gone with the rivnut route. Although I might change that at some stage as I'm not sure on the strength of rivnuts. In saying that my seat mounts to rivnuts as well. Another thing that I might have to change. With all this talk of strut braces I thought I should have a go at making my own. Purchased steel today. If it doesn't turn out well it will never be mentioned again

Not sure what they used. I just removed the trim and used a spray can. Simple, cheap and easy

^this is new to me. Going to the car to check for extra mounting holes now When I put the xbrace on mine I just swapped them. The plastic cover over the heater isn't going to be very solid for tying into the firewall

I'd also recommend the x-brace. They can also be found in z3's. It seems that they like to crumple in any impact near it. It'd be rather tricky to tie a strut brace into the firewall on an e36. I'm sure strut braces must do something on e36's. Hence why some strut braces only fit when the car is jacked up. That front mason bar looks good Not sure if alloy is the best choice though.

Any chance you could share the details of who does the barrels

Got a glovebox that i'll pretty much give away if that's of any use

Which race class is this? There are plenty of ways to hide away stuff. Look up how people hide turbo's in California How do you fit the supercharger under the intake without moving the alternator or power steering? Got any pictures of your e36

What is this? They cost plenty more outside the US. Getting the cam reprofiled in the country might work out better What sort of power are you hoping to make? I'm assuming you want to know the injector size not engine size. Otherwise it's nearly 2800cc (84mmx84mm bore and stroke. you can do the math)

If it's a 4 stroke id put some heat on it where the dowels are

I just recently had to remove the lock nuts after loosing the key. Smashed in a spare allen key socket for the 1st 3. Welded it on for the last. Cold chisel works fine as well. driftit has it on the dot. European corollas

I really want to get a look through your garage crunchy

Changed thread title to better reflect what is in the thread If you change your cams wont you need to change your cold start setup?I'm sure it'll start fine in most cases with the standard startup procedure Decent chips? 'One tune for them all' is never going to be great. Yes you can copy a chip and steal the info and give it to all your friends. That's probably exactly what the ebay seller has done. How much does the war chip actually control? Is there a free download to their software anywhere? From the site listed it seems you get the software only when you buy the chip. A no sex before marriage sort of deal How much access do tuners have when remapping a factory ecu? I'm assuming they'd be using a kess v2 or similar product.