thorburn

What to get? I want as fast and accurate as I can afford? budget is $700 Currently the NGK AFX with NTK sensor is at the top of my list If anyone knows of a supplier in NZ for these that'd be great too. Any other controllers people could recommend?

Would like to see what the leg room in the interior is like. Seats look to be in the usual position.

The m3 unibodies have reinforced rear subframe mounting points and front strut towers If this had been done and it has all the m3 running gear i'd say it is a good deal. I'm sure the 4 cylinder tacho's read incorrect when mated to a 6. So that would be one way to check for the correct cluster.

Love the manifold. Looking forward to seeing how this gets on

what part of the country are you in? i've got a few to choose from

Cheers westy. Found a little bit here: LSD info if anyone else is interested

I had never heard of this before. Looks like it is just what I need. I'll have a visit around and see if it's feasible I got the x-brace from Brent. There must be an e36 convertible or z3 that hasn't had front end damage around somewhere. When i get better at welding i'll be having an attempt at replicating mine. How did you shim it? thicker dog ears, different belleville washers or shim stock underneath. And what clearance did you have in the end? Would you be able to get me their number? I've been looking into molybdenum coatings to get some of my own made up. This is my current selection of lsd parts: Across the top is: New clutches-1.9mm, new dog ears-2.0mm, old dog ears-2.1mm ,and old clutches-2.0mm Under is: Belleville washers-flattened 2.5mm each-expanded 4.5mm each, lid-14.0mm penetrating case, and the take up space washer-4.0mm Lsd case is-97.0mm deep. Spider gear case with gears inside-65.2mm How they all go together Recomended clearance inside the lsd case before block pre-load is 0.1mm-0.4mm (according to the bmw tis manual) Old clearance was 97.0 - 2.1x2 - 2.0x2 - 2.5x2 - 14.0 - 4.0 - 65.2 = 0.6mm of clearance Using the bmw tis method I also get 0.6mm of clearance. New parts would be 97.0 - 2.0x2 - 1.9x2 - 2.5x2 - 14.0 - 4.0- 65.2 = 1.0mm of clearance Not to worry, i'll just need to get some shim stock. Another option is to go with 3 clutches

My attempt at solid diff mounts. Alloy ear bushes and delrin front bush with alloy insert Because I'm not so good at photo taking here is another view of what they are Finished off stitch welding all the reinforcement plates and gave them a paint up. Now i'll have a go at putting the lsd back together. I wanted to get another set of ramp angles cut into it like the not so accurate pic below. Being that it's hardened steel I don't really feel confident in DIY'n it. I imagine it'll have to be annealed and re-hardened? Currently i think it's a bit beyond my ability, so it can wait.

rear shock mounts or rear trailing arm bushes would be my bet.

I've got some standard motorsport springs that i'd let go cheap. Otherwise i've got some eibachs for 350 or some no name lowering springs for cheap as well. Not sure what your trying to say with the double lowering bit. You should not need to put in different springs for 17 inch wheels

is this just for the lsd case or the whole diff? And if it is the whole diff you might want to add the ratio

It all ready looks good

You must be old. Cheers for correcting that one for me

...... what's a Thorburn

Such an awesome car. Can't wait to see what the new head produces.

I'd say that's a bit of on over estimate. m54b30 172kw m52b28 142kw All info from wikipedia. And the m54 has a few other features that will improve the hp over the m52

spray paint and sand paper?

Can you recommend where else to get some from?

Bateman race cars, 41degreewheels.com Are these wheels actually going to go on a car?

Welcome What size and offset wheels do you have? and what size tyres do you have? this might be contributing to the rubbing.

Early m52tu engines don't have fly(drive) by wire. Why do you need to replace the steering rack? Welcome

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d.php?t=1608041 Not to my taste but might interest some

Without the cam sensor it runs in wasted spark. Ecu has no idea if cylinder is on compression stroke or exhaust without it. Could it have been over fueling because of a shorted wire in the maf or tps etc?

Possible but not likely. Useually the seals just fail stopping it from advancing the cam