thorburn

That is looking very tidy. You have set a great pace. Gives me a bit of inspiration to hurry up

where is zqn? I possibly have what you want

just crush bends aye? if mandrel i'll take it

Started the engine last night. Very happy. Only problem was oil dripping from the sump drain bolt. There is a video that I'll probably add later Now the plan is to try get the car out of the garage by sunday. Being a slow worker and working usual hours it'll be a bit of a push. Lets hope from the pile I have all the parts I need To do list: -Drain, remove and replace old radiator (and refill) -Install front suspension and steering rack etc -Rebuild front brake calipers and install -Install slave cylinder (I really hope it still works fine) -Install differential -Install driveshaft and bits -Install front end -Install rear quater window with new seals -Clean up surface rust from under the battery

It had been for sale on trademe for a while. Kingkarl you need to come for movie time

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-344405327.htm It seems to have grown .8 of a litre, plus a megasquirt and rebuilt-ish. Anyone know more about it? I think the owner once posted in the fs section about it in the past

So many good(and bad) things come from "i got bored today". Are those chunks of brass used to hold the original shape while you crush the end of the pipe? Raising the rev limiter to 8 sounds impressive. What have you done to the valve train to allow the higher revs? Very entertaining project

Is there anything special about bmw coolant?

Control arms are impressive. What shocks are you using? What are the sway bars going to connect to?

I've got some old brake lines if you want them. Otherwise I got some from alert motorsport. I found them good to deal with. I'd tell you yes it's easy to bleed brakes but I don't want to feel responsible if something goes wrong

Could you please give me my time back for reading this. John Voelcker you are wasting internet space I should've known better after reading the title

For all the things that could go bang wouldn't of expected that. How is the flywheel even holding together? Does it cost you more in parts or fuel? impressive though

Guessing a bolt did escape then You don't need to get a crown wheel and pinion from an m3. Any medium case will do. You can also change the gearing for a 3.23 or higher if you wanted a little more go

Quite a gain throughout the revs. How different are the schricks vs standard in lift and duration? Looking forward to seeing what you do to the intake and exhaust

I definately wouldn't say it's worth the read. Too many numpties that won't let it die

The third condition would put me off. Also UK imports you'll need to watch for rust.

Do you mean an m50 block with 2.8 internals put in or an m52b28 Cheapest and probably best way is to sell up and buy this http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=33346 Not a 2.8 but you'd get over it

Thought of another one early m3's are known to have a problem with dropping bolts that go from the lsd centre to the ring gear

Made it very easy to slot it in the hole. There are a few options for clutches and flywheels. It seems quite popular for people to use m20 flywheels and clutches and beef up the pressure plate. The setup hybrid has used also looks really good. For PP and clutches in NZ there's a chap on here that was selling them. After pricing up a standard flywheel, clutch and pp i had no problem giving my money to UUC

I've been slowley chugging away at things The shift lever cup was a bitch to take off only because the book pictured lead me down the wrong path. Just if anyone else is changing this, if your looking down at the shifter it needs to be twisted clockwise. After a good 10-15mins and one stab between the knuckles with a flathead later I realised. I did feel mighty stoopid Above is most of the pelican parts shifter kit. Which comes with parts 2,3,4,7,8,10,11,12,13,14,15. part: 25111222688 (no12) has the inner cushion (no14) and circlip thing (no13) with it. So i've got some freebies if anyone wants them. This is the cup (no12). When I removed it there was no cushiony bit (no14). Hopefully this will make all the difference. The shifter wasn't all that bad when last used but it did have a little bit of play in it. The goth nail polish is actually from the por15 that I got carried away with. Will most definately wear gloves next time. Just fyi meths, turps, petrol, oil and salt, brake fluid, and every other nasty substance I could find would not remove this from my hands. Old engine mounts vs m3 engine mounts. M3 mounts look and feel more stiff after bite test. And here are just shots of coloured bits that'll hopefully not be seen for some time to come. I did consider other cars to insert this into. If you look close you can see the E21 tranny mounts and the tranny crossmember installed the wrong way around. And now it's in. Wiring in will start tomorrow Hope your enjoying

No pictures no proof

which characteristics are these? I have no clue about autos m50 manifold is better in the higher rpms. Is this where you use your auto? If your happy that's all that matters. I'm not trying to bag on you. Just don't want someone taking your word as gospel then being disappointed at the results.

I've had what seems like the same thing and it was the exhaust touching the subframe bolt. If it was me i'd jack the car up and give everything a good shake about in the rear suspension. Check rear shock mounts and trailing arm bushes. Rubber bit is the guibo Hope you can find it.

Did you try a DIY fix on it from when it cracked?

3pedals did you ever start making a new intake manifold?