thorburn

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/02/11...awd-mk1-vw.aspx - for more photos.

I've read about swedes and germans pushing higher revs but never seen any evidence. Things also get a little blurry when people hook up 4 cylinder tachos to 6 cylinder cars. The revs read a bit higher then what they are. Hence why you see some videos of guys reving the tacho out to what seems like 9000. Anyways you need the air to be going in to make any use of the revs so this is all kind of irrelevant without intake and head changes. Will there be any btw? Glenn that is one hefty price. A quick google search and i've found these http://store.vacmotorsports.com/cp-pistons...-kit-p1918.aspx

I think shaving the block 2mm is a bad idea. Have you looked into using m52b28 pistons to up the compression? Otherwise i'd get some new pistons. While your at it you could bore the block a bit as well. Or if money doesn't allow i'm sure the standard compression will be fine (maybe not for the extra 40-50hp though). I wouldn't use the NV head. Flows less at higher rpm and is full of heavy parts. What's involved in the regrind? that seems like a very reasonable price. Do they build up the cam as well? Max rpm from what i've read is about 7200 on a standard head.You can probably go higher but I wouldn't want to be doing the R n D for that. Then you float your exhaust valves and they smash into the cylinder. Good luck though. Please show a million pictures of the rebuild. If you've got any spare m54 parts i'd be interested in them. In particular the head

From what i've read e30 lsd cases are the same as e36 lsd's. And I think there's an e30 one in there anyway. For future reference the part number for clutch plates is 33141210626 So far NZ prices have been around $160 for each clutch plate. Also have found bimmerworld's clutches are just standard oem clutches. Although i've read countless threads saying they are a performance up rated clutch. Have had a big fight with the rear subframe bushes. But they are out

Started on the rear end refresh. Pulled the rear subframe. Only had problems with the front subframe studs and nuts. Got a bit frustrated with them and they will need to be replaced. Had the usual wrestle to get the subframe out. If i were to do this again I wouldn't drop it all out out as one. Pulled apart the diff to have a look what is going on inside. Now i'm wondering if I want to rebuild the lsd while i'm in there. Unfortunately the local bmw dealership can not provide me with lsd parts. I have seen the clutch plates on bimmerworld.com and i'm not overly impressed with the $75US each price tag. I'd maybe be a little more impressed if there was some more information on them. I'm currently looking into using porsche parts. Or any other places I can get new clutch plates and dog ear plates. Otherwise steelie gears can rebuild the lsd with 4 clutches for $400. Which sounds very cheap given the prices just for the clutches alone. All the other differential places I called about a rebuild told me to talk to bmw. Anyone have any links or connections for any of these parts? edit: good link for diff stuff http://www.ohiobimmers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3624 Further looking into it has made it clear i don't want to increase the preload by shimming or adding more clutches. I don't believe this will bugger all performance benefits in these zf differentials without changing the ramp angle. Current ramp angle is 45' on both sides. If anyone can shed any further info on the topic i'd love to learn

HB for yesterday. Lets see something go bang

Glenn might know. m54b30 crank is the same that is found in the US s52b32 engines. Is this for a forced induction engine? Is this your own findings or just a copy of PEI330Ci's info? Just wanting to see if someone else got the same results for the head chamber and piston dish volume

was the ac tensioner replaced?

I think i've fixed it. The vacuum line that goes to the exhaust flap,valve,thing had lost its plug. Or more likely then that I forgot to put it in. I've now sealed over the hole and it runs well again. I do feel pretty stupid

Just gave this road a try yesterday. http://maps.google.co.nz/maps?f=q&sour...uakau,+AucklandI enjoyed it a lot. I think i saw 2 cars on it the whole time. Had to avoid one branch that was covering the whole lane and some nasty dips where the road is falling away. Would be one of the most fun drives i've ever had Was going to get some videos and photos but I was enjoying it far too much to stop. Fixed link, cheers Apex

Lets make a list of the roads you enjoy driving. Wether it be for the scenic views, twisties, or whatever else your into. If you could post up as much info as you can. -Area and name -Google maps link -Likelihood of finding caravans, trucks, cyclists, etc -Road condition -Photos or videos if you've got them -Description if you can be bothered -Anything else worth a mention

gaz what are the details of those wheels and tyres

Thank you very much Glenn. I've just had a look at a couple of methods for checking leaks. Like using carb cleaner or propane. I'm not so happy about having to get the fire extinguisher out. Are there any other options? I'll take off the intake anyway and see if it's something obvious. I'm guessing the only way of checking a maf sensor is to replace it with a working unit? Fueling problems would be caused by the fuel pressure regulator and/or bad injectors?

How important do you consider your water pump to be? do you really want to give it less power. If the alternator is still making enough power not to drain the battery under full load, then no problem. I wouldn't use them on my car. A lot of money for power that won't really be felt at all. A cheaper way of removing drag is ditching the air conditioning.

All of this started after it had all been put back together after 6 months of sitting. And a few parts were replaced. Symptoms: - When up to temperature, with low rpms and medium load the car stutters. For example at a constant 50km/h in 4th gear. - When up to temperature the engine shakes under idle and tractor noises from the gearbox start - On full lock at in neutral the car has stalled. I haven't been able to repeat this so it hopefully was a one off. Got a carman diagnostic scanner on it today and i've got fault codes for: - The exhaust valve. This is no longer connected and i'm unsure of what i did with the wires for it. - 1-3 bank oxygen sensor - 4-6 bank oxygen sensor While watching the oxygen sensors in real time they showed a constant 4.5v for some time. Then the 4-6 bank oxygen sensor dropped to 0.5v and the engine started shaking and the tractor noises started. Eventually the the 4-6 sensor returned to 4.5v. Later the 1-3 bank oxygen sensor followed and dropped to 0.5v I'd thought narrow band oxygen sensors only read from 0-1 volts. Is this correct? So the obvious solution seems to be get some new oxygen sensors. I'm just wondering if there is anything else that could be causing this?

You should probably look on their site. http://www.buytyresonline.co.nz/ Linglong, Durun and Wanli are excellent names for tyre companies

is there a link to it on trademe? how much do you want for the whole car?

Got the xbrace on the other night. Initially I thought it made a huge difference. But i probably have to convince myself that after all the time i spent on making it fit. Also got some toyo c1s tyres for the rc's in 225/45.

If you want to make it down to hamilton I can go cheaper.

what about using an m50 ecu and associated bits. A little bit more work but you'll gain throttle response, fuel economy and probably more power as well. http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.ph...3504&page=1

bit late to the party but http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....t=0&start=0

Did you end up opening it up? If not, want to flick it off to someone who will?

Cheers for that blackie. Have you had your guards rolled flat? and what sort of camber is on the back?from the looks of it, it seems quite conservative. The style 19's and 5's are very much the same spec. They even share the same barrels Brake clearance is fine for the standard brakes. I don't think i'll be putting them on until I get the coilovers in

bump. Also would like a straight m52 head

I haven't yet tried to fit them with a proper size tyre. 235's were a bit off. I will be rolling the rear and maybe giving it a slight pull if i have to. I don't want to be forced into running excessive camber in the back either. Would i be right in guessing you'd recommend the T1R's? or is there something else in the Toyo line up that i've missed