thorburn

Cheers for the information

Bateman race cars, 41degreewheels.com These guys might be better to talk to then arrow. If you do find out a price for 17 inch barrels would you be able to post it up

9 inch barrels are hard to find. Are your current barrels damaged or are you just looking to go bigger? Only asking as i'll take spare or damaged barrels off your hands

Luckily I had help with the fuel tank. Hoping I can convince someone to help put it back in when the time comes. I made the mistake of buying the plates from bmw. Any advice while putting it back together BMRBOI? What other preventative maintenance have you done? Having looked around a bit i've decided I will weld around it some more

Welding over head and vertically is definitely a challenge that I have yet to master. I made up a jig to practice on. Still couldn't get welds that i was really happy with but decided to give it a go anyway. I think i've gone a bit too fast on these. I was worried about blowing a hole in the floor Is it worth welding more to it? Currently i'm thinking not but i'll have a look around and see what other people have done

So what happens to the style 5's? was the offset the problem?

http://oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=26443

Good to hear the vanos will be back

I might set up something so I can have a practice. Being that these reinforcement plates just need to be held in place I don't think the welds will be that critical. As far as I know none of this should need certifying. I'll be due for a cert soon anyway when I put the adjustable height suspension in so I will find out.

Cheers for the info and the link

Made up some rear swaybar reinforcements out of 2.7mm steel. Might not be necessary but i'd rather do it now then take the subframe out again later. Any pointers on my welding would also be appreciated as i'm still learning. Stripped the rear subframe back and gave it the same treatment as the front subframe. There was some minor surface rust in a couple of spots. Pushed in the purple street powerflex bushes with the gold sauce. The bushes don't seem to sit quite right and after reading this: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...ings&page=3 it seems i'll be needing 2 longer bolts 31106769908. And some more washers. Also dropped out the fuel tank. Luckily I had some help on this one as the tank wasn't as empty as the empty light claimed it to be. Got into giving the underside of the back end a bit of a clean up. I still need to take it back to bare metal before welding on these: Any advice for welding over head?

Are you sure it's 63mm? i've got what I believe to be b32 headers that end at 2 inches or about 50mm. I've also got a milltek centre section for an m3 with the same dimensions.

What are the benefits of using UHMWPE over acetal? i'm guessing in this case it might have something to do with the lubricating properties?

http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-ca...-pipe-diameter/ From this it seems the area of the pipe is the direct relation to how much hp it recommends. My 328 has 2x 1.8inch (46mm)diameter pipes and is supposed to make 190hp (142kw). Really no comparison to what you are wanting to achieve. Either way the cross sectional area of the 2 pipes is: (pi x (1.8/2)^2) x2 =5.1 square inches (33cm^2) Kerry's setup has an area of: (pi x (2.5/2)^2) = 4.9 square inches (32cm^2) The e36 m3's had 2x 2inch (50mm)diameter pipes. According to wiki s50's make 282 and 316hp (210 and 236 kw). And area of: (pi x (2/2)^2) x2 =6.3 square inches (41cm^2) This is just very rough as i'm too lazy to measure the internal diameter of everything. But I hope it at least shows that you should use s50 exhaust parts. This should also make it easier to find a suitable muffler or you could run 3 pipes... edited to keep 3pedals happy

Pinging or detonation in this case is when the fuel and air pre-ignites before the spark plug fires it. In some cases this will happen before the piston reaches top dead centre and the expanding gases will try to fight against the movement of the crank.

I had the same problem. It was the sensor on the fuel pump side. If you need any help i've got a few photos and i've got the fuel tank out atm if you need any other info

unless the tyre company specifies that the tyre is ok for a wider wheelI've got no idea what offset the linked wheels are.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showp...mp;postcount=24 16's will look fine. They will stick out 93.95mm and 81.25mm from the hub face. To give you an example of how other wheels fit. All the 8 inch style 5's you see posted around the place stick out 81.6mm. If you'd like the stance look you'll be able to make them fit with the right amount of camber and stretch.

which camera? all looks great apart from the vibration under brakes

I like my setup. Oem pads, brembo slotted rotors in front and, motul brake fluid and some other junk. Oem pads make a bit of dust.

You could switch the top hats for more camber. This might be overkill though That's one good looking e36

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/02/11...awd-mk1-vw.aspx - for more photos.

I've read about swedes and germans pushing higher revs but never seen any evidence. Things also get a little blurry when people hook up 4 cylinder tachos to 6 cylinder cars. The revs read a bit higher then what they are. Hence why you see some videos of guys reving the tacho out to what seems like 9000. Anyways you need the air to be going in to make any use of the revs so this is all kind of irrelevant without intake and head changes. Will there be any btw? Glenn that is one hefty price. A quick google search and i've found these http://store.vacmotorsports.com/cp-pistons...-kit-p1918.aspx

I think shaving the block 2mm is a bad idea. Have you looked into using m52b28 pistons to up the compression? Otherwise i'd get some new pistons. While your at it you could bore the block a bit as well. Or if money doesn't allow i'm sure the standard compression will be fine (maybe not for the extra 40-50hp though). I wouldn't use the NV head. Flows less at higher rpm and is full of heavy parts. What's involved in the regrind? that seems like a very reasonable price. Do they build up the cam as well? Max rpm from what i've read is about 7200 on a standard head.You can probably go higher but I wouldn't want to be doing the R n D for that. Then you float your exhaust valves and they smash into the cylinder. Good luck though. Please show a million pictures of the rebuild. If you've got any spare m54 parts i'd be interested in them. In particular the head