bravo

I must be a pleeb then. Waste of taxpayers money. This talk of buying new vehicles to retire older ones to help the environment is a crock of sh*t. Your average $40,000 jappa uses more than twice its weight in fossil fuels to be produced. I imagine bimmers etc cost a fair bit more. Thus at a saving of 2l per onehundreed km, its going to take a LONG time to make up the diffrerence (around 200,000km). I wouldn't care if it wasn't 1) taxpayer money. 2) This bullshit spin to hide the fact they upgraded their cars to ones that cost 2.5 times as much.

Graeme's price is fairly sharp. Anything from there to $150.

+1

Read the schnitzer site, but you're about right. From what I was reading seems they only gave the diesel a performance boost - the rest is wheels, springs, trim and kit.

Nokia 6610i. Good battery, worn rear faceplate. Colour screen, crap camera, have to press harder on the menu button than normal for it to work. Make an offer.

yep. The only "special" box would be a dogleg - that's the one with 1st left and down instead of left and up.

BBS RC's = hot. 850 e31 = mega hot.

Badass.

In a 320 a 3.91 or 4.11 will give you good pickup off the mark. The 3.91 would be a good compromise for open road gas mileage as well. If you don't know what diff you have, and the tag is gone, jack the back of the car up with it in neutral, and hold one wheel still and count how many turns of the other wheel is required to rotate the driveshaft once. This number divided by 2 is your diff ratio.

I think it rocks. Nice e30. I know the car. Look forward to seeing it at a meet. Now all we need to do is get Ali down for a meet in her touring...

e21 323i had m20 with carbs. Copy that setup and use those parts for ease. I don't know how hard it would be though. To answer the question as to why manufacturers don't use them - its because injectors make a motor much more economical and it can be tuned more accurately with fuel injection. If you just want to pour fuel down its neck and go like the clappers then you can use carbs, but still would prob be better off just using an uprated injection system with tunable fuel and spark. Carbs sound badass.

The gearbox will have numbers either stamped on a flat area of the outside of the bellhousing, or occasionally they can be found stamped inside the bellhousing. They will most likely start with 240 or 260 unless it had the dogleg box.

320 and 325 gearboxes are the same. Only "problem" with a non re-conditioned 'box is the risk of it dying on you shortly after. But if it was working fine in the previous car, and you give it a fluid change (and also a filter change and belt adjust wouldn't go amiss), then the saving in cost (IMO) out weighs the risk by a long way.

$1800 for a reconditioned one about right. You can pickup a secondhand one in as-is condition for anything from $0-$250. There were a couple of free ones around earlier this year and I paid $150 for a good one not long before that. Manual conversion will cost you around $1000 - 1500 for the box, conversion parts, and all NEW replacement parts (clutch, etc) if that is more attractive. (Plus labour)

I have around 2.5 deg neg camber on rear and 1.5 on front. Rears wear outside shoulders - fronts do a little, but not as much. When the rear tyre outside shoulders are 1mm different to the inside shoulders, the fronts still show no difference, so about this time (5000kms roughly) the rears go on the front and the fronts on the rear. Then, when the front tyres (now on the rear) wear a similar amount, they all get flipped on the rims (as they are directionals) and I start again. By the time the tyres are about close to replacement, lo and behold! more or less even tyre wear across the whole tyre. Usually only get flipped once.

As above - what you describe is called negative camber (when the top of the wheels are closer together than the bottom). It is generally caused by worn suspension bushes, or more commonly when you lower your car. If you have a lowered car the only solutions are to put the car back to factory height, or spend $$$$$ installing camber correction plates and the like. I have the same issue due to my lowered ride height, but as mine is not severe, I simply pay to have the tyres flipped on the rims when they start to wear noticeably. (about $40).

Bonus points for group dragon.

Can you do that on the front knuckle joint Gus? Its the same type of bush as on the end of the gear lever. I'd guess you could do it with a press?

There's about 6 regular/semi regular women members and a few others that crop up occaisionally. There's even another Shelley. Different spelling though. Welcome.

Yep. If you have to cert one thing, the whole car must be checked and anything else certed that needs to be if necessary. So if you lower your car but don't need a cert, then change your brakes, but use parts that don't need a cert, and change your exhaust within the rules, you don't need a cert. But then if you say modify some rims to fit that requires a cert and they'll have to check and cert the whole lot.

Haha Josh, I'd help fund that lol. BTW Jimbo, Ford is pissed. They took action against the advertisers and AFAIK the ad has been or is going to be pulled.

No-one (AFAIK) has the front knuckle bush aftermarket. They all supply the OEM one, so you won't get much better than the dealer anyway. Expensive I know (about $90-100 from memory?)

Details of the amps. I may want one.

I voted no. On other nz forums, what works well is a thread for trademe post ups. You could have one for "Look at this knob/car/whatever" and a "Check out this!" one. I suppose a special forum would work, but to be honest when viewing threads I just click the "Unread" button and only navigate through the forums to either make a new thread or find an old one. I have no problem looking in the For Sale section for old TM threads. You can end up with too many forums and its hard to find things.