hybrid

*swoon* someone please buy my twin...

mtech1 is the new tec2

Easy enough to change the leather using someone like retro vehicle enhancements to better than OEM spec black / napper or what ever. The car is a nice piece of work and looks in good order .. (minor inperfections are really easy to repair) Have you thought of fixing up the bumps and scratches and maybe changing your wheels back to OEM. You could probably demand a better price.

This is one problem with the standard water pump design ... it gets over driven and actually stalls the water the impellar is reving too high. Or it could be the efficientcy of your radiatior .. look at maybe a bigger core and longer piping. Tuner motorsport I think make a race water pump for not too much. Are you running under drive pullys? Also the e30 airflow to e36 radiatior is a bit crap ... maybe look into ducting. Im looking at dremelling out my tech1 bumper factory holes under the number plate for this very reason.

Sorry for the lack of updates .. We have actually been working on the car just doing a lot of prep work and setting up for the new modified headers. Quite a bit of cutting on the #6 pipe and re shaping. While keeping it eqaul length and no sharp angles was no mean feat. A friend of the missus has done all the welding work, having gone solo after spending his time working on some big budget race car projects in his time .. and his tig welding workmanship shows. Great to have some one like him on board. 4 areas of concern 1 #6 hits the firewall 2 Rear pipe collector touched the Sway Bar 3 #6 fowled the steering colum 4 Post collector long pipes need to be modified to hug the body better while retaining the correct length to the mid muffler as not to effect torque. With out further ado. Test fitting the new modified pipes. Top view. Underneath. Shortened and reflanged to provide a more liner path. O2 sensors to be retapped into new secondary pipes. Tig welded factory flanges .. super stoked on the job done so far. Welded to factory outlet flanges. This is before we installed the steering rack back in to check. you can see the lack of clearance we have to play with.. but we will get there Now the steering doesn't quite clear the number 6 just yet .. so a little rework is going to be needed .. however we will have something later this week hopefully

Until you sit in one .. then it all makes sense.

badass .. should be interesting to see the difference.

Pop me an email bud with what you require ... Am up at rays quite a bit .. and im sure he wont mind

Unfortunitly theyre not BMW original parts. Qaulity/longevity is a real issue with non OE parts especially around sensors. (just a general info for would be e46 owners)

The ZHP is the same as a normal euro m-technik/motorsport 330 e46. A normal euro msport e46 has the same engine and performace as a regular 330ci/i. The yanks get jipped on performance all normal cars are slightly underpower compared to regular euro models. they bring out these other models (ZHP / clubsport etc etc) to have something 'extra' to sell. Remember alot of US ZHP's are still 03-05 cars and haven't travelled over 100000 ks to experience these problems. A cheap and easy way around this is to just go out and buy carsoft and the dongle for around $250 and just reset your adaptions yourself if its really getting to you.

The problem is.. the e36 is a fairly boring car compared to an e46. Not trying to start something Ive owned all and much prefer the e46 as a daily driver. I think the issue here is it will be something simple and relatively cheap to fix. Its just finding out what it is, and this is what breeds frustration.

The main thing to take from this is you'll (like me) have a sensor problem somewhere. No body (in this country) that I know of has successfully fixed it. Even the dealers who have access to far more information dont have a fix for it. I'm pretty chummy with the AKL ones so get to talk to their senior mechanics a lot. My next step is to start measuring outputs from different sensors with an occilliscope as there has been talk of sensors going 'dull'. The ECU is trained to read a dull sensor and account for it. But I feel it is a combination of aucklands weather climate (muggy weather) a sensor or two and how the ECU deals with all of these varibles. * A few things slowing the fix of this problem is lack of second hand parts that are known good. * The price of new parts for a replace and test approach (what im doing currently as funds allow me to do) * I was going to try was going to gavin @ hi velocity as he has all the aftermarket equipment to test what the engine is actually doing, however my schedule and his never seem to line up. This also costs a lot money. The other thing is as you know its intimitant and weather dependant. The whole thing really does point to o2 sensors ... Will tell you when I have a spare $2400 laying around

No change in actual pedal feel as its not connected to any throttle cable. Its a static potentiometer. You will find that when you floor it on some days .. there is almost no angry sound from the Cam. There are some days in winter where I floor it .. and its so powerful my 265 rear tires break loose. The sound from the cam is far more agressive. This is the DME controlling VANOS and in turn the retard or advance of the cam

And as Wayne knows ... its also the reason I haven't installed his headers just yet. I need to get on top of this problem first before introducing new components that and attempting to remap MS43/DME.

Yeah still have it ... Its not really a problem for me so much. I found that after a trip to Gisborne and back it really did wonders. Not only did it tell the adpative maps to stop wallowing around in town mode, It also cleaned all the crud build up and made the car run smoother etc etc. Do you get a faint hunting issue when you under load (foot mild on the accelerator) Driving up the harbour bridge shows it for me .. The revs will rise then drop about 100-200 RPM under load. I haven't got around to replacing my O2 sensors yet (I have pre and post cat ones) so at $600 each x 4 get pretty expensive. I have tried to replace the MAF with a know good one, no change and my MAF is reading correctly (I have a scanner) I have a crank sensor that I will install/replace soon but will do it when I have an afternoon as it requires me removing my radiator. CPS (cam position sensor) are another option This problem doesn’t relate to the intake boot split problem (post MAF, Pre In take manifold) as I have checked Another thing to also think about is the Fly-by-wire throttle pedal (Throttle’s poteitameter) but I think personally it’s a red heering as its fine and then its not. The way you need to think is ‘what gets effected when its muggy / hot’ And we aren’t talking about the adaptive maps just knocking the fuelling back and retarding cams because the car might be running lean here. The problems are so subtle I have just learnt to live with them for now. I will get around to fixing them after the e30 is complete (hopefully in the next 6-8 weeks ) There are lots of write ups on e46 fanatics about these sorts of problems. Lots of speculation like taking it to the dealer and getting updates done. This doesn’t work as I had it done ... no change. We can form a club ... the e46, no error code but I know something is wrong .. but only sometimes ... just enough to annoy me .. but not enough to sell the car club. Oh .. I have replaced my DISA valve too, but that was to fix a worn problem ... here are some vids I did on it.

mean...

unknown k's its over priced by 7k .. its had the vanos replaced recently at least You also need the DME, engine loom, EWS modules, loom and key. To get you started. You could nearly buy in a re-cond s50 crate engine for that money.

At least pop some foam 'carb' style air filters on it to stop grit from getting in there. It will prematurly wear the engine out otherwise (not counting some big moth and other insects that will end up there). I would be very interested to se a before and after dyno result for this especailly in the higher RPM ranges. I would expect lower RPM to suffer?

Glenn has you on the right diagnosis track as usual. This is a problem I have gone through as well. You'll notice when you go on long drives it goes away or if it cold or raining. In summer the car doesn't like hot / muggy weather. A simple reset of the EGS and DME adaptive maps works .. but only for around a week. Thing I have found are: MAF damaged or need cleaning ICV and throttle body get clogged with crud and blowback after about 100,000 ks onwards. DISA valve The myrid of sensors such as O2 pre and/or post cat I still have to replace my crank sensor to see if mine settles. The bitch is a lot of the time it doesn't throw up an error as the car is driving normally as far as its concerned. Its just amplified by hot weather.

.. dont you hate it when you leave the work 'like' out of a sentence. End of the day you need to run a Alpha-N module and sensors to get this to work _properly_ on the standard DME. Using a stand alone is cheating such as

German ... need to run Alpha-N software, adapter and sensors to run it on the stock DME and without a MAF. Essentially is just running the ECU with MAP instead. Lots of dyno time and re-mapping to get it to work properly.

haha .. looking awesome .. subscribed.

Also Dilan .. dont fu*k up the wheel fitment on it do this ..

Mint shoe. I really love them aye .. I know heaps of people dislike them but I think they're the bees knees. youll be wanting to do this soon then

Sounds perfect ... remember .. they are only springs and you can change them out any time you want for uber hard if you feel the need later on. As westie said... hold up on the sway bars until you have had a decent drive of it on the standard ones. Ill be going for a set at some point so will probably order when you do if your not in a hurry ?