hybrid

Forgot to add. Its a good idea at this stage to do a full reset of the DME trims and may as well reset the EGS trims at the same time. It is not essential to do this but will help the maps with the odd airflow it recieved around 4k.

Been having some funny issues for some time with throttle response in the car under loading. About 2 months a go I lifted the bonnet of the car to hear a god aweful rattling sound coming from the manifold. A bit of research showed my 'Adjuster Unit' / DISA Valve had given up the ghost. Symptoms include: below average fuel consumption, Under heavy or full acceleration load torque hesitation. A very loud rattleing sound when the hood is up. Here is a video brendon and I did on the difference between a worn one and the new one. The new revised one has better wearing properties and a better soleniod. And a quick install vid. Part Nubmer: b11617544805 List price: $612.64 :| (use the bimmersport JC discount to reduce this) Engines effected: m54b30 Here is a bit of info on the flow dynamics of these engines. This is the airflow circuit diagram for the intake; the green is the Idle control circuit, and the purple is the intake air circuit: The following shows Low RPM airflow with the DISA valve closed: The following shows High RPM airflow with the DISA valve open: And the DISA valve in person:

You can soooo see where the world copper supply goes.... e46 CAR WIRING! Yet the envirnomentalist are up in arms about emmisions

The parts costed out for m3 boot and "rear window frame" to be over $4000+ a few years a go when I looked into it. The prices have all since gone up 30% :/ since this ression sh*t. New pricing.. * Rear window frame 1600 odd. * Boot lid 2500+ * + misc stuff / latches and hinges. It becomes pretty un-economical to do it for just a race car pretty quickly.

the sticker value of the Top of the range non M x5 without options is around 150k. your probably looking at the 200k+ bracket for an M. Ooptioned up m5's are around 225k when they were new. I can't speak for the M release date in NZ but typically we see other models released around 6 months after release in the states and europe and actually in the shops for sale.

looks tits ... nice work

Yup thats it By heater you mean the big ass box in behind the stereo ? I would think you would only trigger a few non critical fault codes which shouldn't throw lights up on the dash... We can try un-plugging mine out and seeing what codes get thrown up in Carsoft. Should give you and idea.

And from that thread ... here is some crap around coding

As Glenn said the big thing is in the coding. The guys on e46 fanatics had everything working up until the coding of this. There were a couple of people from the shops that told what they needed to code. You need to get very friendly with someone with a GT1 coder and isn't affriad to use it. I'm pretty keen to do this myself to my e46 once the race car is finished so am behind you 100% to do this! The monster thread you've probably already seen (one for you glenn too as requested) http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=659314

Interesting ... Now if they could get rid of the cam and valve system we would be totally set!

Just a FYI.That box that was under the dash/gloove box with 'GM5' on it is the eletric windows and central locking relays / other random sh*t.

Freshest design i've seen in ages! I like

Westy ... feel like being roll cage buddies and sharing a design ?

Just some additions to this thread Other things to check; This is a classic sympthom of a post MAF problem. meaning an air leak problem between MAF and engine. The engine cannot calculate the correct air flow as there is extra air coming in from somewhere. The rubber intake tubes crack over time. This is more apparent if the vehicle has spent a long time in a hot environments like singapore etc. Another this is the Adjuster unit ... I'm just about to do mine as its rattling like crazy! and causing wierd throttle response under load. These threads will help you see the problems a little better. Now im NOT saying this is what yours is .. but may help you none the less. e46's around 130+ks everything start wearing out. :/ http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=342081 http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.ph...ight=rough+idle

its e30 weapon season ... glad to see the clusters n sh*t going in ok .. Dont stress about the aircon box too much .. a date with the hot iron and some badass plastic welding in order me thinks.

You can decrease offset with some hub centric spacers that are attached the wheel with grub screws. This is legal in NZ. Grab some 35-30 offset e36 wheels and spacer them 15mm to get 15-20mm offset

Sanding it (unless you sand for hours) wont get it .. A dremel on the end of a drill will help you cut it out. You then need a Phosphoric acid based product to clean the area properly. Then obviously you need to clean that off with clean water and dry with a hair dryer. then the area is ready for rust protecting primers. a plastic bonding agent / sealant is the needed which will dry hard and can be sanded back smooth .. Primer then paint the area to get a total seal again. Im not 100% of products these days as when I did this it was 10 years ago on my off roader. The rust never came back on that after following these steps which incedently I learnt from my air force friends at the time.

**** NEWS FLASH***** This just in, there is no such thing as rust killer. The proper way to treat rust is to get a dremel tool and cut the rust right back until its 100% gone. Then you need to chemically treat this area with a neutraliser. Making sure it 100% clean of contaminants. You can then apply metal protectant primers and paint as normal. If it requires bog, you are only giving the rust another chance to start up again. Painting stuff over the top of it will only mask the problem. It will be back with avengance. The big problem with rust is the metal has already got the chemical reaction going on deeper than the surface of the metal. people are fooled into thinking they have all of it and all the have done is delayed the reaction a few months.

Its such a rocket ... Will be good to see it now with the new mods!

Did you open up the heat shrinked fuse on the secondary battery cable and check the 80 amp fuse that supplies power to the ECU ?

your lucky! Not too bad for a race car.... mines sitting over 30k! and growning quickly.

The relays dont usually just stop working. Youll atleast get a bit of warning with a relay. like chattering or incomplete contact. The power cable that powers the ECU (the second power running from the battery terminal) has a flat 80 amp fuse in it. Its about 10cm or so up the power cable. Hidden underneath heat shrink. It seems like your not getting and spark to the car when in fact its the ECU not getting power to even tell the coil to fire. Replace said fuse .. or do what I did and replace it with a 80 amp circuit breaker. The fuse will be under OEM style heat shrink.

... for the first time today. Shes always looked at it and while she has grown to the shape of them .. she hasn't really got this obsession with these cars. Today that changed. Left the e46 at a friends place after a night off in town drinking. So the missus and I went to pick up the car in the e30. I asked her to drive there to get use driving it as with full race brakes and race suspension and a 3.15 diff on the getrag 260 gear box .. it takes a little bit of a knack and isn't the easiest if your new to it. (at least till the new stuff goes in ) Well after her driving it back by her self .. we both got home and now she wants one!. Her message on facebook this afternoon "Has a hard on for e30's after driving one" my words were "at a girl" Any body elses wife / GF have the same experience?

newbs part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzif078Pn2E&NR=1

What are you trying to achieve with your wheel purchase ? Are you after the more clean look (mono block look)or the more dished look ? Do you want mesh ? or spokes ... 5 spoke (no offence to anyone) tend to not suit BMWs as much as a mesh design however .. something like a mono block 6 spoke can look the bees. http://www.comp.co.uk/wheels/wheels.asp?range=MO6_0006 See here for limmets car in white