yng_750

big fat wire should have 12v all the time, thin wire should have 12v when key is trying to start not just to on if the lights are dimming it means its using all the power to try and start. so either the battery has f**k all power to give or your starter is seized some how and is using massive amount of power to get very very hot

yea i had to wait like 2 weeks for the part to arrive from the US mine smoked massivly when it first started up but would stop after a minute. i drained alomst a liter of oil out of the intake when i pulled it apart.

i would be checking all the fuses and fusible links first. not starting could be caused by EWS not recognising the key. EWS also controls central locking hence fuel cap. EWS controls door locks. seems to be the factory security system is telling you to piss off. that being said this is classic "never seen or hear aftermarket alarm hidden under the carpet somewhere"

check voltage at starter, does everthing else turn on?

around 75kg i believe, was rated at 160lbs empty. dont try to get under it, you will lose, a man learns alot about himself when he has a trans stuck on his chest and his only options are dragging it over his face or his "old fella"

inside the wiper motor it has little contacts that slide along copper strips that tells it how far to travel, eventually they either corrode or wear through, bending the contacts very slightly to the side to get fresh strip usually fixes it.

i count 10 pieces of rubber glued to his car that prove he cant park a car let alone drive the ring

you should be fine but one rounded nut will kill your day, anything tight just use penetrating oil and come back to it tomorow. especially exhaust

bloody shame, at least its likely in a state where it will be repaired rather than scrapped. bear in mind the new owner could have been hit whilst driving perfectly, best to reserve judgments.

seems strange, i would be checking every fuse and fusable link first but it does sound like something more serious considering it works on some things. could also try dissconnecting the battery overnight to reset the memory on everything, worth a shot at least

Sounds like what i had when the CCV valve broke. mine let go after i had the car not running for 2 weeks to fix an unrelated issue. get someone to give it just enough throttle to keep it running and pull the oil dipstick out, if its blown you will hear a massive sucking.gurgling sound, same with oil cap but then you get splatter

specific parts i look around but usually euro italian or ebay etc if i have time. basic filters, oils and tools i see supercheapauto

Strange that it does it on and off load as fuel use etc varies vastly, only way to check for flow issues would be to plumb in a pressure gauge and see if pressure drops off, i used a mechanical oil pressure gauge from supercheap, came with a t junction that fit into the fuel line, not good for it long term but a little fuel doesnt hurt. could well be that fuel tank dent, at worst that will stop you getting to the last of your fuel so better whack it out. Sounds like an AFM issue to me so make sure the new one is actually good. Have you checked ignition timing etc as it may start detonating and back itself off (maybe not sure about those old ecus)

+1 8K should be plenty for a m52 swap, including a good freshen up and power boost. depends if you are doing the conversion yourself or not

i truly believe in the penrite products. If you call their 0800 number and talk to their tech guys especially shaun they can tell you anything. Shaun knows more about oil than i know about everything, especially good for race guys.

Does it really matter? you can only use the power at the wheels anyway. 15-20% is fairly common place but keep in mind the drag doesnt really increase hugely with power, so if you are running double factory power the gearbox doesnt have twice as much friction. Still should be close enough to 500hp at the flywheel which for 10psi is pretty good

$55.96 at supercheap auto this weekend with Club+ card. im surprised she didnt try to take you all the way to the 40W70

presume your looking for the proper 6cyl rack rather than the 8cyl box? Good luck with the search

Cliff, i urge you to cut a radiator hose and join the world of those who know how it feels to hear an engine sieze at full throttle. or if you want to do it faster punch a hole in the oil filter

I would change to Manual, if you document the swap you can always use that to put potential buyers at ease. only reason people should be worried is if they think you have done a crap job. Dont underestimate the ease of auto when your doing 5kph in the sun along the waterfront.

beautiful car. with that colour Ethrty-andy will have to buy it.

hard to say without a dyno run but if its really bad it may be due to a vac leak if you didnt change the manifold gasket, not sure why you might be getting an ASC error. for a road car anything less than 2.8l just go back to standard, 2.8l im 50/50 on opinion racecar that sits at the top end, stick with it Decat, new headers.

When i bought my 740i i bought it sight unseen. albeit for like $3000 so not much risk. Seller detailed a couple of issues and said it was a daily driver. First time i braked for a corner it had massive steering shake, fortunantly i knew e38s and could identify it as support arm bushes, but if i didnt know anything about that type of car it was bad enough that i would be turning around and asking for a refund. was surprised he didnt say anything about it before hand as it was obvious but hey thats the general public for you.

could just be natural airflow, deep in the dash the temp doesnt change as much as the rest of the car overnight, nice dry warm air rises. Just watch out with a disconnected battery can you still open the boot?

i believe the factory unit had to be removed due to roll cage, so internally it must be flush.