_ethrty-Andy_

For what its worth i was told buy a good source when i did my E30M52 that the M52 manfold is more restrictive with smaller ports than the M50 one, just like the intake. i found that out after i modified it to suit from there back its all plug and play though Jon or Ray or someone may be able to confirm

I might bookmark this post. could be usefull to copy and paste at some stage

yep not really my bag though! could be tempted on some Alpinas or Hartge rims? i shouldnt have sold the set i had on my black E30

edited so the pair of you can sleep tonight.

i havent actually done it, but there will be a writeup on the web. its just a case of opening it up and changing them. i seem to recal needing to import the batteries but i could be wrong on that. I just swapped my clster for another one intending to change the batteries but i never did get round to it and stripped the car. not a solution for your M3 though

sorry Glenn, i should have run that one past you before i posted......

not sure if directed at me or OP, but my setups above were all on my twincam, i went through so many setups finding one i was happy with. should have just gone coilovers lol

M50/M52 are no easier or harder to work on and parts are pretty much the same cost. other than having 6 coils/plugs/injectors rather than 4 etc. as far as i can tell use the exact same tools as M40 and M44, probably M42 as well... I do realise you might have already made the decision on swapping the car, just thought the advice might be useful EDITED

is this dyno chart on your 316i? might be keen for my own one

nope. many many people have tried. it has to be modified as the M50 sump hangs lower than the M20 and comes in contact with the guard and it wont bolt up on both sides. custom only Edit: sorry just realised you said with alterations. yes, you need to lenthen the arms on each side, but then it will sit too far forward, so would have to have like a slight S bend shape.

been popping to many drifts??

The numbers make it even less appealing than i though lol. but 20% saving is still very impressive and probably not realistic? a lot of people get unnecessarily hyped up over the fuel economy/cost thing in my opinion. make the choice from the get go to get a car appropriate to your needs, but its often not appropriate to sell your car and get another one unless that car happens to be a 540i or 750iL, or your current one needs lots of repairs. A smaller/less powerful engine needs to work harder to get a car moving than a big engine, so therefore sucks more fuel to do so. some more copy pasted entertainment on the weight issue if you want to read it i recently posted on another forum to a member in an almost identical situation, only an E30: I had a 525i Auto wagon which is a 2.5L and around 1700kg, i used to get around 16L/100km city driving. Compare that to my V12 wagon which is identical body shape and weight and its marginally more, but that engine is literally twice the size. Similarly, every auto E30 ive owned has got around 10-11L/100km 80-90% city driving. the manuals are slightly less, but my current 316i is sucking 4L/100km at 100km/h, and more like 8 in the city which is less than the other E30s ive had, but it still gets about 9.5L/100km over a tank according to Fuelly. The best my auto All E30s are the same weight give or take 100kg. At the end of the day, you are driving a BMW which never have been light cars compared to their japanese "equivalents". the fuel economy gains between a 2.5L and a 1.8L are just as easily gained by pumping up your tyres, taking the pram out the boot and roof racks off and, if you work close to home, not carrying a spare tyre.

not sure if id say all.... but they dont build em like they used to

in my opinion i the fuel economy different between the 323i and the 318i isn't going to be as much as you think it is when they are both automatic cars. 318i auto have very poor economy. i would swap for a 318i manual, or dont bother at all. fuel economy is still directly related to the way you drive it, they use hardly any gas idling no matter how big the engine is. a 323i is only a 2.5L engine which isnt really that big. now if you had a 540i that might be different. Im sure my little 316i would still suck 25L+/100km if i drove it hard.

sorry guys, i want Borbets in my life! Still looking, but the car didn't fail a WOF on any of the tyres surprisingly they are all 2mm so have got a bit more time to find some! Anyone know who the replacement for Johnno at mag and turbo or whatever the outfit was called?

last chance before trade me!

i have a 40GB plan at my house, i use around 5GB according to an app that i downloaded, (mainly trolling bimmersport i think) my boarder uses the rest and usually blows the cap too, i dont know how people do it!!

i know the raceseries guys use them, but i have found the Kingsprings are a lot softer than equivelents in the E30s, actually if it wasnt for the Jamex ones i had, they would be the worst. BMW ///M ones weren't bad, factory smoothness with the lowered height, but they are 20 year old springs now. Will be putting my current E30 on ebaichs in the next week or two so will see what they are like too. but the best i got H&R, you cant go wrong with them, they are fantastic. if you google them i dont think you will find one negative review either. then again, the H&R are the only ones i paid for out of all the setups ive had in an E30, so you should probably factor that in. yes they are pricey but oh so worth it

$10 including shipping

yes

service interval batteries are nearly dead, or the ground is bad

took it for a WOF, failed on just the FR ball joint, is it just me or are E30s hard on these? seems like pretty much every E30 I've owned has needed them or tie rods done. hes letting me through on the trailing arm bushings but he expects they will need to be done for the next WOF. Disk rear end time?? does that need to be certed?

Id rock an RS6 over any 1980s+ BMW any day of the week

hmm i know that one, was hoping for a different one. whoops thread hijack