Matth5

You could just go elsewhere for the WoF. Tyre age isn't actually a WoF requirement, although if they have visible cracks in them you should just replace them.

There's nothing on the Q&A now, and the listing makes no mention of the write-off...

If your car came with 19 inch runflats you'd see why lol. Rides like absolute sh*t

Had mine for years, no squeaks or anything. I think they don't move like sway bar and control arm bushes do, so it's not as much of an issue with them. For control arms I went with the M3 parts, think vibration, noise issues ect are more likely there if you go too stiff.

BMWorkshop did mine. BTW you may as well skip ahead to full on hard poly bushings. Used AKG Race bushings on my E92 335i, absolutely no impact on comfort or noise. Do it once and they will never need replacement again. Might be a bit different for the 1 series but I doubt it.

Making more reliable power. Also mine's an N55... But 500hp on the cheap... no way, unless you're not planning to use that power for more than the odd little drag race. I doubt a 500HP N55 or 54 would survive very long without a rebuild, if it's being put to use properly. I don't care for those crazy HP builds that are just used for the odd drag race. Sure there are heaps of high power builds shown off on forums, that never see a race track... But anyway... I wasn't totally serious, I don't think it's worth it, better off buying a newer car if I'm spending that kind of money

Suppose that wouldn't be a drop-in replacement for my E92 335i... ?

Mine blew just with the BMW PPK tune. And nobody in NZ had a replacement in stock at the rime, stock or aftermarket... The CPE/BMS one is good. Make sure to get the o-ring too if the original disappeared when it blew. And c-clip if you lost that. Mine was resting on an undertray panel behind the engine.

Considering how soon it is after you bought it, I reckon you should get the dealer to take a look. Lots of possibilities with these things, ranging from $200 to $10000 When I had the same symptoms it was on the top end of that, thankfully mostly covered by the warranty... Could even just be an old/faulty coolant cap. They're designed to release coolant if the pressure is too high. If worn or faulty they can release it too easily.

The guy posting the question about service history has to be joking lol.

Have discussed it with them, DCH will be handling it, thanks

I have the 2s on one set of wheels and PS4s on the other. As long as the 5s aren't worse, they're an excellent tyre. I feel like the PS4s have a slight edge on grip but the Eagle F1s break into a slide more progressively, my traction control seems to have an easier time with them due to that. Can't go wrong either way though, both are excellent. I think I have a preference for the Goodyears which goes against all the love the Michelins get on sports car forums...

So I'm getting an engine shipped from Auckland to Christchurch to replace the one I destroyed on Raupuna... I'd like the rod bearings replaced and oil sump baffling installed. Probably something like what this guy did: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/addressing-n5x-oiling-and-spun-rod-bearings-accusump-installed.4034/ If other reliability modification like a secondary oil pump can be done at a reasonable cost I'm up for that too. I just want to be able to take this on track without worrying about blowing another engine because it's f**king expensive ? Any recommendations on who can do this?

"Could this be what you've been looking for? A 2006 BMW M5 with WOF until 23/06/2020 and registration until 01/07/2020? This imported Sedan has done 117,650 Kms and has had 5 owners. Don't overheat in the summer. This M5 is equipped with air conditioning. Don't worry about losing those pesky hub caps. This BMW has alloy wheels fitted. Like to sit back and relax on those long journeys? Cruise control has you covered in this BMW. Electric seats make finding your perfect position easy in this modern BMW. Keep your hands on the wheel at all times. This BMW has controls on the steering wheel for your safety, and convenience." OMG whoever wrote this has no clue what they're selling ?

Looks like I'm sorted for an engine and some other parts from Brent/BMWorld

Hate to say I didn't check on the day. I have been checking it regularly and it has not dipped below full at all, so I had no reason to believe it dipped today. The workshop did drain about 5.7l out I think (full should be 6.5), so I'm not sure if it just burned some oil while the engine was destroying itself or what. This car has been driven hard on a regular basis with a fair bit of hard braking on quiet roads and the odd cheeky slide, and one track session a few years ago, so maybe I wore down the rod bearings or something beforehand. https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/addressing-n5x-oiling-and-spun-rod-bearings-accusump-installed.4034/?fbclid=IwAR0cfxGB-jSgSKMNm4m3l69bKh2-3RgCXZCLYq8Is_PFgwLogljZFZMS7Sw Seems like this thread has some good advice that should be taken before tracking an N54 or N55. Oil was that Castrol stuff the dealer uses I think, BM Workshop did the last oil change and I think that's what they were using at the time. At most about 3000km old.

Well I did have a hell of a fun time until it died. Seems the N55 really needs some extra oil pan baffling, some oiling upgrades like an Accusump are probably a good idea too. I killed my engine with maybe 25 minutes of track time. Coil-overs, M3 control arms, track pads, meant it was handling great and it gripped incredibly well. I thought with street tyres I wouldn't build up enough G-forces to cause oil pressure issues but it seems like I did. Session 1 was great., session 2 it overheated towards the end and went into limp mode so I pulled out early. Session 3, it was overheating much faster, and under acceleration it sounded like a helicopter was hovering above me. There was no helicopter, so I think that was engine knock. As I slowed to a stop the engine shut off. Towed it to a workshop and they found the crank would not budge at all. Oil smelled bad and looked dodgy, like it had boiled, coolant pipes had turned white... not a pretty sight! Engine is toast! Thinking I might get some work done on the replacement engine so that it can actually handle the track. The car was just too much damn fun, it was amazing on the track, never thought it would corner so well! Even when it was sliding it was so controllable. This will certainly hurt the bank balance though ?

Completely cooked my engine on track, it seized up, likely from oil sloshing around on the corners and running metal-on-metal ? Plastic cooling system parts are probably all stuffed too, at least some hoses look discoloured. So anyone with a wreck that has what I need, please let me know. Car is a 2010 E92 335i with an N55. Located in Christchurch. Alternatively if you want to buy a heavily modified E92 335i with a stuffed engine, I might consider a reasonable offer. But probably not

Edited my original post so it doesn't mislead anyone. So it is legally a WOF fail, but you probably wont have much trouble getting a WOF regardless...

Hmm well I even asked the last WOF place if it would be an issue and they said no, I didn't hide it. Well I don't doubt you, guess I was wrong, but I think more places will pass it than not. You can always ask them beforehand if it'll be an issue, and go elsewhere if it is.

They do not read codes or perform an emissions test, and a check-engine light is not a WOF item. So while it may be a requirement in writing, it is not checked and you will not fail a WOF. I've passed my last two WOFs with catless downpipes, and a check-engine light.

"I wish to retain my cats for WOF" You don't need cats to pass a WOF, they are not a requirement here Edit: I'm wrong here, see below...

Yes, they don't have secondary cats so are a bit louder.

Isn't the cert like $400? The cost of the cert, or swapping factory shocks+springs, isn't too bad. The coilovers are a quality set, at this point the cert is nothing more than a box-ticking exercise and a donation to the government coffers, hardly something that should scare a serious buyer. Only concern is the seller might be have been trying to avoid spending money on the car for a while, and there are more issues, but you'd be checking for that if you're a keen buyer anyway.

I looked at the prices of getting the official BMW Bluetooth fitted... And then decided to get a $25 BT to Aux adapter instead Does a good job. I bought the Himbox one on Amazon but there are other options around there. Replacing the head unit will not look pretty, and not sure if that can even work well with iDrive. I wouldn't recommend that route. If you don't mind dropping a few thousand, get the NBT retrofit with Bluetooth. Or the cheap easy option I took.