Olaf

Blad. Niiice. Must show me that rig some day soon. EDIT: "Swiss shoots German in Wellington!"

Contact Mark at Winger, you may find useful pricing with your BMW Car Club NZ discount. did you get that FCP Valeo SMF Kit? One of the FCP kits includes an alum flywheel I think. If it we’re mine, and I wasn’t looking to race it, and there wasn’t a lot to be saved by going single mass, I’d be going OEM LUK, Valeo, or Sachs and basing it on price and service. That is, yes DMF is a bit of a crappy solution, but if it’s nearly the same cost to add risk of rattle with the SMF Route, both options will outlast your time with this car (you’d be expecting 160k kms?), so why add the risk? On service, : if you’re buying from Micks or FCP you know you’ll have it in 5 days. With BMW if it’s not in stock it’ll be about 2 weeks. With eBay sellers - I’m still waiting for a part I ordered in October. Having to chase for refunds and re-ordering is a total sh*t. HTH. Oh, and YMMV!

I didn’t do the swap, though I can confirm you do want them. ?. You had them in the Ci?

I've a slightly different perspective: I just wouldn't re-use bump stops under any circumstances. They're not expensive, and if the closed-cell foam hasn't died in the previous 15-20 years, it certainly won't be performing as new... and a failure in the next year or two requires removal to replace. Same goes where bellows-type dust boots are in use, the plastic goes hard and brittle, and if it hasn't failed yet it soon will. Why risk $40 of parts on a thousand dollar job? YMMV.

what's the Mercedes diesel in the Ssang Yung Musso? OM606? Wonder if they're reasonably priced and available?

@adro?

Hey Bozza, you're welcome to try both vehicles when we can find a mutually convenient time. The e46 is bog-stock, standard springs, Sachs OEM shocks; the only changes are the thicker ARBs (Msport front, Cabrio rear), and the staggered rims with wider rubber. So standard ride height. Here's Jane on RealOEM (based on your VIN): https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=DT62-EUR-10-2000-E39-BMW-530i To give you some idea of standard shock refresh parts, looking up 2001 530i on FCP: Rear (Sachs/OEM) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-shock-absorber-kit-rear-170855kt Front (Sachs OEM) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-strut-assembly-kit-front-556832kt-kit-556832kt Plus your springs, as you've indicated they need doing. Hopefully your tension struts etc are sound and you can do those another year. You may get away saving on a few bits... but then you get it apart, didn't buy the shims, find them worn... many of the fasteners are single-use, so better not to try and scrimp on those. The feel of a car when it's been fully done is superb; most reckon my e60 is driving like a new one. You might get away without some of the hardware like "shock mount plates" and "shock mount supporting cups", take advice. If you're keeping the car for a number of years, you'll get the value out of it. It's not a cheap job, though, and I understand your caution. You don't want to fire 'the parts canon' at it unnecessarily. Comparatively speaking, around USD100 per corner for OEM shocks is pretty reasonable. It'd be interesting to see if Sachs OEM for e39 have Alu shock bodies; I think the Bilstein touring are steel (it was this way for the e60), which saves a few bucks and adds a little weight. Going Meyle shocks/struts and carefully selecting Lemforder/Sachs/Corteco/Rein/Meyle parts may save you $100-200 or so on your overall parts cost, so worth considering. One thing's for sure, with your suspension refreshed, you'll get much better wear out of your tyres, assuming sympathetic driving. Another area you may be able to compromomise budget a little is Bridgestone RE003s in place of Michelin PS4. Not as good, though still very good for the money, and should save you a further $200+? Hope that helps.

PS: I really like the style 81's too, FWIW. Keep your eyes skimmed for a set, then you have a couple of spares.

Nice one Bozza! You've done well to put so many kms on in a short time, and while studying. She's a beaut car. If you want to go m-sport springs, you'll want to match them with m-sport shocks. A little lower, a little more rate, matched with the right damping characteristics. And then there's the fatter ARBs too. And, as @Young Thrash Driver points out, when you do your shocks, you want to be doing the mounts, bushes, bearings etc. Be prepared to buy a dollop of sachs or lemforder bits too. Meyle okay - as long as they're Meyle HD (IMHO). If you look up your VIN on RealOEM, you'll get the suspension listings and all part numbers. You'll also be able to crib the m-sport suspension part numbers - springs and shocks etc. One possible option to maintain the ride comfort, height, and address a bit of the roll, is to replace your shocks and springs with OEM, and find the ARB's from M-sport and add new bushes to fit. They're probably 1-2mm thicker than stock, and will calm it down without sacrificing your ride. I took this route with my e46; did a full OEM refresh, and found it didn't handle that well (the tyres weren't helping), so (with some excellent advice from @Herbmiester and a drive of his car) I added the staggered rims with wider better rubber, and added the m-sport bars. This gave me the better roll perfprmance, crisper turn-in, and held the line better, without compromising family ride quality. Suggest you drive a recently refreshed Sachs OEM car, and see if you can drive an M-Sport. I'd be leaning toward M-Sport (it was that fancy electronic active anti-roll thing that disuaded me on the 545i) particularly if you're placing the springs, though your informed decision based on your experience will be far more powerful. Although the e60's a different beast, you're welcome to have a crack in mine, if only to suss out what a fully refreshed OEM setup can feel like. Cheers

total bargain!!

you sold the Mini?! ? Honestly Kyu, one can't keep up. You change cars almost as often as you change wheels. Better life stories. In retirement, on your rocking chair, you won't be wishing you'd kept the 135i instead.

buy now in time for summer!

BAZZA, we need to get images of Clementine up on this thread...

come on, tell us the story... are you Matt MK2 now?

sold already, Corey?

That’s exactly what is now residing in the trunk/rear wing of my e30 ?

Ask Tom, he knows the area well...

echoing others in this thread, thankfully you got a hose clamp on it, and your fixes are withstanding pressure testing, Glenn. Heal well ?

Jon, that’d be awesome. I’ve got bushes for a 20mm (my current one’s an 18.5), though I wouldn’t let that get in the way of something fatter if you have it. Many thanks for taking a look!

... I’ll scrape out a link I had saved; it’s a URO knockoff of the Hirschmann AUTA 2050 though with lots of bezels/grommets. They run about USD50. Although URO aren’t the best quality aftermarket parts, how badly can they mess up copying a quality product like the Hirschmann? HTH

Bump. Anyone? Could do Auckland area with the ethrty good bastard express parts courier... come on folks, help a brother out. e30 20mm front antirollbar needed.

you can find them on ebay with ease, Dave.

check that the little printed circles on each sidewall are beside the valve stem. that's a good place to start, when figuring out if the tyre shop had a clue or two. As Kyu asked, not understanding why you didn't return to the original tyre fitters when you first had concerns. You've certainly complicated things.

Are you going to make moulds so you can produce replacement panels in future? #becauseracecar

10 Nov 2018. 258,211kms 1. Fuel Filter. From this: To this. I think I should move that filter lower in the bracket. I replaced the two hoses with new DAYCO EFI hose (BNT), as one was old-ish, and the other was original BMW manufactured 4/89. I re-used the BMW clips, because new new shiny Tridon clips I bought had SAE bolt sizes. Does not make sense to me, SAE bolt heads on my metric cars? No way. Filter is Hengst H80WK01 equivalent of BMW 13321268231 2. Misfire. The misfire was getting worse. I scored a set of used Bremi (OEM) HT leads, cleaned them up, burnished the contacts, metered them out. Promptly left them at home! Found one connection at the dizzy cap (Cyl 3) badly corroded and with resident moisture. Cleaned cap, moisture shield, rotor, leads. Reassembled, starts and idles beautifully. (yes, this is the 'before' picture). I've purchased a new OEM Radiator (Thanks Abel Smith Radiators), Genuine BMW top & bottom hoses, clips, Thermostat, BMW coolant, and cooling fan clutch. Next step, cool-o-rama & cambelt and clutch.