Olaf

We provide this information to members, it's updated as new suppliers are added. In practice It often takes the form of "hey I'm looking for a ______, who's our club supporter, and what's our arrangement?" "talk to ______". In this case, our supplier is an agent for AUTOSURE, with 15% off to members. Worked example: Recommended retail is $1,395 on the AUTOSURE GOLD policy for Euro (Cat C)**, duration 36mths, excess $450. Looking at my invoice, I saved more than 15%, result! $90 membership fee recouped in one fell swoop, and then some. Hope that helps. ** Note all Autosure restrictions apply, this summary is not intended to provide detailed policy info.

so you're at 800 for 4 - 200 per corner, or 982 for 4 - 245 per corner. or simply 800 vs 982 - about 20% more. Whichever way you look at it, you've got to make a value judgement on whether or not 4 RE003's or 4 PS4s are "good value". I was taking issue with the blanket statement questioning "RE003 in 17" not being good value but perhaps 18's are?", which I believe to be folly.

Baby seats need no excuses! That has to be one of the very *nicest* e30's around.

RE003 17" staggered e46 fitment cost me just over $200 per corner fitted, when I did it. I think that's well worth it!

get realoem part numbers for your clutch. cross-reference with what you're proposing to buy. then check realoem part numbers for the xi.

Yes indeed! BMW Car Club NZ has a range of member benefits negotiated with supporter businesses, accessed by production of a current membership card. The saving from membership discount on 3 years of MBI far exceeds the annual membership fee. I recently accessed club discount when purchasing a new radiator through a local supplier. In addition to the quarterly magazine, camaraderie, social events, trips/cruises, and MANZ affiliation, the discounts seal the deal; it's great value! ? /plug.

I had misfire codes and lean codes, it was PCV system. Which scan tool are you using?

SCAN. Air leaks first starting place. But SCAN, with someone who know's their onions. Fastest route to a solid diagnosis.

(after doing those simple jobs, I was a bit cream crackered. This recuperation business takes time.)

agree - they never actually fail! Though whenever I've replaced one (I did a couple of Bosch GT40's back in the late 80's/early 90's on japanese cars, and more recently on my e30 325i, volvo etc), it always seems a little smoother in the range. Thanks! And, oh, since you mention it, there's more where that came from. ? I've been putting together the plan for a "316 iS". Working on the reliability and safety, then handling and stopping, there's lots of parts prep. Some unplanned health issues have slowed me down over the last 5 weeks. Preparing for suspension. Koni Yellows on their way from ebay. Going to match with H&R Sportsprings 29663-1 (-35 + -35mm for 4cyl iS). I've always wanted to do Koni Yellows on one of my cars, and these came up at a reasonable price (used). I remember what @3pedals said last year on my e60 thread, an excellent description here, decided this is the time to have a crack with Koni Yellow. The Eibachs sound a little soft, so H&R it is. I'm more concerned about handling than "lows". New sump gasket ready to go in. Engine and Gearbox mounts. Diff gasket and bushing. Shifter bushings, and maybe a short-shifter. New fluids for the diff and gearbox. Rear: Meyle Subframe Mounts, Lemforder Trailing Arm Bushing Set, Meyle HD Shock Mounts. Koni 80-2522 (general e30 spec, not absolutely perfect for the 318iS, though possibly rebuild as 80-2641 in future if necessary?) Considering conversion to rear disks, a-la 318iS. Front: Sachs strut mounts, BMW Bump Stops, Koni 8641-1210 Sport. new ARB bushes, Meyle HD ARB end links, new wheel bearings. Need to figure out if I have 51mm housings, or need to get them to build with the konis and new parts. LCA and bushes, rack ends seem okay for the mo, so they can wait. I've bought 14" baskets, getting some new rubber. Need to get the rims down from Napier... anyone coming down soon? Some time in the new year it should all start to come together. There are other maintenance items to take care of too. In summary: it's not to be a race car, just a healthy street car that's fun to drive, reliable, teach my kids to drive in, and I may have a go at the Surgery Sprint Series with it next year. I'm not expecting to be particularly competitve, as I'd be a total track novice and it's just a 1.6l M40. But hey, participation and fun, I think I'll have the ingredients for low-budget entry-level track time. PS: I think an M42 conversion will be on the cards, just not until everything else is sorted.

9 December 2018. 171760kms Prep for service: 1. Replaced hood support struts. I was jump-starting my neighbour during a storm a couple of weeks back, and the bonnet slammed down on my jumper cables. Fortunately no damage. They clearly needed replacing. Sourced OEM Stabilus, they're easy to install. (1) Old struts. Slow to rise, fail in winds. (2) And the new struts, push together right to the top of the travel, and raise the hood from approx 2/3 of travel. I'm sure they'll work better in Wellington's winds. 2. Replaced Air Filter. Bit over a year since the last one. Another Hengst E728L. Easy job. (last changed Mar 2017, 152k kms) 3. Replaced Cabin Filters, cleaned the surrounding area of debris. I bought a second set of Meyle filters last time, they were cheap. replace in pairs. Tomorrow's a general (annual) service for the MBI. Oil & Filter, Coolant, anything else required.

9 Dec 2018. 258,375kms 1. Replaced Coil It's one of those 'I had room in the box' things. I've always found replacing coils at 10 years old, worthwhile. Slightly smoother running, generally. This one was nearly 30 years old. Original Bosch (Germany), and I sourced a Bosch (now made in Brazil). From this... To this: I must re-seat the rubber hood. I gave it a clean-out with WD40 and a rag.

10/11 Nov 2018. 258,252kms 1. Clutch kit (Luk), RMS, gearbox input and output seal (Elring) 2. Timing Belt Kit (Gates) 3. Radiator (?OEM), top and bottom hoses (Genuine), thermostat (Vermet), fan coupling (Meisterstats), Coolant (Genuine).

IM'd you via FB messenger ?

Sounds like bolts are same, I'll just need to get a set of puzzle nuts and a key. Got pics of each wheel please, Rob? I'm keen.

Please place me at front of queue. Keen to see the pics, make a decision after that. (Tomorrow am) my e30 is on Steelies; I’d need a set of alloy wheel bolts, and a puzzle key and four nuts, yeah?

Are these e30 spec/offset? interested!

Yeah I think that was on Trade Me a few months back?

Why’s that, then? Love to understand the connection... ?

Well it looks like you have a ton of options... what you choosing to do?

and more cowbell.

that's an understatement! ?

here's a couple of funky videos and some info about the Valeo Kit4P (Clutch Conversion Kit)... https://www.valeoservice.us/en-us/passenger-car/transmission-systems-passenger-car/service-kit-conversion-kit, Beware of club beats and lab-coated engineers on drugs, and a jack-booted model pulling faces while suffering a Renault: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-clutch-kit-e39-e46-z3-valeo-52401220 I worked out as NZD1140 ~1200 accounting for a 5% discount (you could buy a little more and get 10%), FEDEX, and IETP. Whereas the Mick's Garage LUK option (DMF Flywheel & Clutch kit) comes in at about $1250 (free freight) including IETP. Pretty close eh?

Blad. Niiice. Must show me that rig some day soon. EDIT: "Swiss shoots German in Wellington!"

Contact Mark at Winger, you may find useful pricing with your BMW Car Club NZ discount. did you get that FCP Valeo SMF Kit? One of the FCP kits includes an alum flywheel I think. If it we’re mine, and I wasn’t looking to race it, and there wasn’t a lot to be saved by going single mass, I’d be going OEM LUK, Valeo, or Sachs and basing it on price and service. That is, yes DMF is a bit of a crappy solution, but if it’s nearly the same cost to add risk of rattle with the SMF Route, both options will outlast your time with this car (you’d be expecting 160k kms?), so why add the risk? On service, : if you’re buying from Micks or FCP you know you’ll have it in 5 days. With BMW if it’s not in stock it’ll be about 2 weeks. With eBay sellers - I’m still waiting for a part I ordered in October. Having to chase for refunds and re-ordering is a total sh*t. HTH. Oh, and YMMV!