Olaf

Not to mention the 45 series changing your handling. Usually when you go wider, you go lower aspect ratio to remain at the same circumference. The engineers set that car up as a package with thousands of hours of development time. Unless you're looking to make specific changes, I'd suggest you stick with the stock sizing, as @eliongater suggests. Here's a visual comparison of your stock size, and your tyre professional's suggested option: Aside from the handling change (taller sidewalls adding 33mm to the height, more sidewall flex, and higher c of g), you can see it'll also gear it up, and nearly 99mm to the circumference (more than 5%). Seriously, I'd shop somewhere else, where the tyre guy has a clue.

on the contrary, any Leaf owner should expect to have the piss taken, even when there's an i6 or bent 8 in the background...

Besides, between Tyler and Doug, they have a cunning plan to talk down the values of all e60 M5s in the USA, pick em up for 2.5 cents in the dollar on their original buy price. Tyler will build a huge warehouse on some of that vacant land they have so much of down there, and slowly fix each one of them over the next ten years. Then, some time around 2030, they'll run articles praising this forgotten masterpiece of incredible power and grace, from a time before the GFC, before austerity and turbocharging, before we all went nutty and electric. They'll make their market, slowly selling each "discovery" off starting at around $125k, and increasing as each "barn find" comes to light, demand growing with the new legend. They're shrewd, these southerners. You should be too.

outstanding. more pics, time to see it in roadgoing form!

I had to google that. I'm open-minded, non-judgemental. It's too early in the morning for those images. I'll never look at a Leaf again in the same way, without thinking of a#$ play. ?

anticippppppppppp-ation ? four black circles, this afternoon. Photocredit: Jon Mechaniker

it's all part of his schtick. not to be taken seriously.

we have soft water in Wellington, so if it's not enough to move here for the AWESOME weather, there's the water too! ?

I am reliably informed that using the BMW washer fluid avoids the scum buildup. Had one of mine done about 2.5 years ago (new pump, tank all cleaned out), tank still clean as a whistle, exclusively BMW fluid since.

12 Dec 2018. 258,426kms 1. Gearbox Oil Drained and filled gearbox oil, with thanks and kudos to @Barryn. This being on light duties is frustrating! Gearbox oil level was low (leaks, now resolved). About 1.5 litres of Messers Penrite ProGear full synthetic. Now shifting more sweetly. 2. Tyres While we had it in the air, we had a look at the tyres. No way those rears are passing a WoF (low tread on left, cracks, and age of both rears) - and the fronts are over ten years old - so it's now parked until they're sorted next week.

^^ This.

try searching xxxxxxxxxx on ebay. they're out of Sheffield UK, from memory. Seemed like essentially the same kit, and cost less. It's what I did on my e46. Hope that helps. oops i6 Automotive, and they're not so cheap these days, https://www.i6automotive.co.uk/bmw-disa-valve-intake-adjuster-unit-aluminium-repair-kit-3-0-only.html

10 December 2018. 171765kms (19,571 since acquisition) Service. Keeping up with the requirements of the MBI. And sensible maintenance/care. 1. Oil & Filter. Also replaced filter housing (OEM Hengst), as the filter drain plug was seized. (there are two drain plugs on the N62. One in the oil pan, one in the centre of the filter housing). Fuchs GT1 Proflex 5W30 8 litres, Hengst E203H. 2. Cooling system flush and fill. This annual coolant replacement (twice factory frequency) is my 'belt and braces' approach to risk mitigation of the valley coolant pipe issue with N62. Genuine BMW coolant used. 3. Service checks. The usual belts, plugs, hoses, suspension, brakes, air filter, steering etc etc for annual service. Though to be fair, pretty much everything's been replaced in the last 2 years, so we'd have been surprised to find any issues. "It's driving like they did when these first came out". I'm loving it.

We provide this information to members, it's updated as new suppliers are added. In practice It often takes the form of "hey I'm looking for a ______, who's our club supporter, and what's our arrangement?" "talk to ______". In this case, our supplier is an agent for AUTOSURE, with 15% off to members. Worked example: Recommended retail is $1,395 on the AUTOSURE GOLD policy for Euro (Cat C)**, duration 36mths, excess $450. Looking at my invoice, I saved more than 15%, result! $90 membership fee recouped in one fell swoop, and then some. Hope that helps. ** Note all Autosure restrictions apply, this summary is not intended to provide detailed policy info.

so you're at 800 for 4 - 200 per corner, or 982 for 4 - 245 per corner. or simply 800 vs 982 - about 20% more. Whichever way you look at it, you've got to make a value judgement on whether or not 4 RE003's or 4 PS4s are "good value". I was taking issue with the blanket statement questioning "RE003 in 17" not being good value but perhaps 18's are?", which I believe to be folly.

Baby seats need no excuses! That has to be one of the very *nicest* e30's around.

RE003 17" staggered e46 fitment cost me just over $200 per corner fitted, when I did it. I think that's well worth it!

get realoem part numbers for your clutch. cross-reference with what you're proposing to buy. then check realoem part numbers for the xi.

Yes indeed! BMW Car Club NZ has a range of member benefits negotiated with supporter businesses, accessed by production of a current membership card. The saving from membership discount on 3 years of MBI far exceeds the annual membership fee. I recently accessed club discount when purchasing a new radiator through a local supplier. In addition to the quarterly magazine, camaraderie, social events, trips/cruises, and MANZ affiliation, the discounts seal the deal; it's great value! ? /plug.

I had misfire codes and lean codes, it was PCV system. Which scan tool are you using?

SCAN. Air leaks first starting place. But SCAN, with someone who know's their onions. Fastest route to a solid diagnosis.

(after doing those simple jobs, I was a bit cream crackered. This recuperation business takes time.)

agree - they never actually fail! Though whenever I've replaced one (I did a couple of Bosch GT40's back in the late 80's/early 90's on japanese cars, and more recently on my e30 325i, volvo etc), it always seems a little smoother in the range. Thanks! And, oh, since you mention it, there's more where that came from. ? I've been putting together the plan for a "316 iS". Working on the reliability and safety, then handling and stopping, there's lots of parts prep. Some unplanned health issues have slowed me down over the last 5 weeks. Preparing for suspension. Koni Yellows on their way from ebay. Going to match with H&R Sportsprings 29663-1 (-35 + -35mm for 4cyl iS). I've always wanted to do Koni Yellows on one of my cars, and these came up at a reasonable price (used). I remember what @3pedals said last year on my e60 thread, an excellent description here, decided this is the time to have a crack with Koni Yellow. The Eibachs sound a little soft, so H&R it is. I'm more concerned about handling than "lows". New sump gasket ready to go in. Engine and Gearbox mounts. Diff gasket and bushing. Shifter bushings, and maybe a short-shifter. New fluids for the diff and gearbox. Rear: Meyle Subframe Mounts, Lemforder Trailing Arm Bushing Set, Meyle HD Shock Mounts. Koni 80-2522 (general e30 spec, not absolutely perfect for the 318iS, though possibly rebuild as 80-2641 in future if necessary?) Considering conversion to rear disks, a-la 318iS. Front: Sachs strut mounts, BMW Bump Stops, Koni 8641-1210 Sport. new ARB bushes, Meyle HD ARB end links, new wheel bearings. Need to figure out if I have 51mm housings, or need to get them to build with the konis and new parts. LCA and bushes, rack ends seem okay for the mo, so they can wait. I've bought 14" baskets, getting some new rubber. Need to get the rims down from Napier... anyone coming down soon? Some time in the new year it should all start to come together. There are other maintenance items to take care of too. In summary: it's not to be a race car, just a healthy street car that's fun to drive, reliable, teach my kids to drive in, and I may have a go at the Surgery Sprint Series with it next year. I'm not expecting to be particularly competitve, as I'd be a total track novice and it's just a 1.6l M40. But hey, participation and fun, I think I'll have the ingredients for low-budget entry-level track time. PS: I think an M42 conversion will be on the cards, just not until everything else is sorted.

9 December 2018. 171760kms Prep for service: 1. Replaced hood support struts. I was jump-starting my neighbour during a storm a couple of weeks back, and the bonnet slammed down on my jumper cables. Fortunately no damage. They clearly needed replacing. Sourced OEM Stabilus, they're easy to install. (1) Old struts. Slow to rise, fail in winds. (2) And the new struts, push together right to the top of the travel, and raise the hood from approx 2/3 of travel. I'm sure they'll work better in Wellington's winds. 2. Replaced Air Filter. Bit over a year since the last one. Another Hengst E728L. Easy job. (last changed Mar 2017, 152k kms) 3. Replaced Cabin Filters, cleaned the surrounding area of debris. I bought a second set of Meyle filters last time, they were cheap. replace in pairs. Tomorrow's a general (annual) service for the MBI. Oil & Filter, Coolant, anything else required.

9 Dec 2018. 258,375kms 1. Replaced Coil It's one of those 'I had room in the box' things. I've always found replacing coils at 10 years old, worthwhile. Slightly smoother running, generally. This one was nearly 30 years old. Original Bosch (Germany), and I sourced a Bosch (now made in Brazil). From this... To this: I must re-seat the rubber hood. I gave it a clean-out with WD40 and a rag.