Harper

Wow I didn't know that, hadn't looked that closely tbf. That makes these an even more appealing car. Wonder why they didn't just come like that from factory.

https://youtu.be/3-tgXkhyyV4

Saw the video when he posted it and remembered the car when it was for sale. Bit of a shame it sold overseas really. Really lovely spec, e34 m5 is on my car bucket list to own and that one would've been the one to get.

Funnily enough I've thought about buying one of these and N52B30+manual swapping to have an NA 1 series coupe.

E46 is worse. The line went through quite a bit easier on my 130i than my compact. Might have actually been the worst part of the manual swap process on the e46. Very hard to get the tight bends out of the master cylinder looking OE. Jealous of the LHD guys who basically have a straight shot from the pedal through the floor.

Clutch switch wiring is easy. On my 130i manual swap I was able to snake the factory hardline behind the dash without too much trouble honestly. 135i looks to be the same. I'd use the OE line if you can imo.

Looks like a 944 next to it.. nice

I think the last s54 to sell locally was the one weitz parted. I'm sure it sold for an eye watering figure. Definitely best bet is importing one from the states, if I was getting one that's probably what I'd do. Only thing to keep in mind is that you'll need quite a lot more than just the long block and trans to get it running in your touring. Many part differences between the S54 and M5X cars. You're better off just buying a donor M3. It's also not a plug and play swap, wiring and coding required.

https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/e66113-new?product=24-70-1-093-593 190usd from schmiedmann

I pulled an M44 from the scrapyard with 90,000km on it. It's mint inside, doesn't need a rebuild at all. But my Dad is keen on a project so has been refreshing it for his E36 318is. A bit unrelated to the rest of the thread but we took the disassembled motor to my Dad's friend from when he raced porsches. He used to build the porsche race motors, but more crucially he also built the super tourer S42s, S14s along with many M42/44. I noticed these nice looking boxes in his garage while we were there. Full set of S42 pistons, rods, cams, bunch of other parts too. Porsche 962

No coding changes required to make this work. Check the signal wiring from the FZV module to the GM5 is done correctly. Is the frequency on the key the same as that of the FZV module in your car, 315 or 433MHz?

Has to be the best kept E46 in the country

They should've developed an NA M motor out of the N52 as a successor to the S54 and put it in the 1M. The engine is the only thing that puts me off the 1M.

Sorry, unrelated to the rest of this thread. But after you pointed out those settings I disabled them on my compact. Clutch switch was wired in and working correctly but holy turning off throttle request correction and drivers wish input correction completely fixed my biggest issue with the car since building it. Previously the throttle felt super soggy and lazy, especially after driving the M3. Thanks for suggesting it. Bizarre that the DME slows the throttle plate opening and closing closing so much by default. Downshifts and throttle tip in felt so sluggish and is night and day better now, I was worried I'd have to start messing with the throttle mapping.

It's a disease. Currently 5 BMWs polluting the driveway and garage... Fortunately a new deck and lots of new concrete means I'm soon to have plenty of covered parking and work space. Good excuse to get more sh*t boxes.

No M audio, honestly I haven't even tried any of that yet. No need with an S65, rev matches are musical.

Karbonius airbox is some of the best money you can spend on an E46 M

It's even got 3 pedals. It's actually a prefacelift but converted. Updated Idrive and taillights.

Oops, new addition to the fleet

To be honest I would trust the part number on realoem over what's on the pump itself. The part numbers printed on the parts is not always exactly the same as the BMW part number. The part number you gave does not return anything on realoem.

The ABS pump is not specific to the 130i. Go to https://www.realoem.com/ and find what other models share the same part. ABS pumps at pickapart are $65. It will need to be coded to the car if you are swapping the module as well.

Yeah I think it would be between Dave and Clint Field in manukau since they are both out my way. Usually that's just a prerequisite to becoming a mechanic.

Over the weekend I cut a 100mm block of wood and stuck it under the car. It was basically a perfect fit underneath the lowest points of the car, meaning at it's lowest the car was sitting at essentially exactly 100mm off the ground. Definitely shouldn't have been a reason for failure, I'll leave that block of wood in the passenger seat when I take it in next. Hopefully the cert process doesn't take too long. Anyone have any recommendations regarding which certifier to go to? I was planning to go to Dave Page since he's just around the corner from where I work in East Tamaki.

The note on the sheet says "Chassis rail / alloy engine cover", presumably meaning the reinforcement plate. I was in a rush when I picked the car up so wasn't able to chat to the inspector about the details. I'll cut a block of wood to 100mm this weekend and check myself. Hopefully the cert process doesn't prove too painful.

@Eagle That looks ace mate. Makes me want to own an E36 318ti at some point. Mine is also overdue some properly sized michelins which should effectively raise the car a few mm as well, hopefully that is all it needs. Currently running cheapo tyres in 1 series sizes. But yes if all else fails I'll just go somewhere else. I suspect one of the testers at the shop is a ball buster because they have failed me on some dumb sh*t before, while other times they've let things slide.