Harper

I think I was right in that the loom was pinched somewhere or something. I couldn't find any evidence where it would have been but after removing the center console and checking all the wiring the codes cleared fine. Put the center console back in place and no issues. Now I'm struggling to bleed the clutch, I wasn't prepared for how much of a bitch it is. If anyone has any tips it would be much appreciated. I think I'm going to have to remove the slave and manually depress it by hand to bleed. Pedaling/pressure bleeding doesn't seem to help, the pedal is still almost at the floor.

INPA. Screenshots of the codes below. I swapped over the seatbelt buckles from left to right and the errors remained the same so that suggests it's upstream of the buckle. I'll pull the centre console out again tomorrow and have a look for anything not right there.

Having trouble clearing a couple of airbag codes causing an airbag light on my 130i project. Has been on jackstands for the last couple months while I've been working on it, and the codes weren't there before. The battery did die once in that time, I charged it up with a ctek charger and it starts the car no problem now. Getting two codes in INPA 93BA (seatbelt contact driver) and 93B0 (curtain airbag on the left). I've checked the seat connectors and everything seems to be good but still can't clear the codes. I'm at a bit of a loss for what could cause them other than the battery which following a charge seems to be working okay. Any other suggestions for things to check? The only other thing I can think is the wiring to the airbag module under the center console got pinched while I was putting the center console back in place but that feels like a reach.

I think it's this stuff https://www.3mnz.co.nz/3M/en_NZ/p/d/b40072022/ 12mm width but not 100% sure, it's been in my garage forever. I use it all the time. This is what most of the E46 forums recommend using though: https://www.3mnz.co.nz/3M/en_NZ/p/d/b40069430/ Yep sorry trims sold on trademe for $550 a while back.

I used some double sided 3m tape as a temporary fix, it was the right width for the felt and rubber and fit nicely. I expected it to last 5 minutes and figured I'd look into some contact adhesive or weatherstripping glue like what the US guys use when it failed. Haven't touched it in 3 years and it's still holding.

I spoke too soon, first one in a long time

They almost never get parted these days, haven't seen one get parted for at least a year or two. Your best bet is maybe the one that was flood damaged and sold through turners, not sure where that ended up.

I was umming and ahing back and forth deciding if I wanted to buy this one. Had just messaged the seller to come check it out the day you bought it I believe, I've been looking for a 4 door as well and that colour is something else... Looks ace man

BM134 is the OEM fabric for the headliner, which comes foam backed. The same fabric is on the A/B/C pillars but without the foam backing which is BM3109 if you use the foam backed fabric on the pillars its too thick and looks wrong. It's a bit of a bitch to get to NZ though, have to ship it in from the states I believe. This place has it: https://www.cartopsplus.com/Automotive/Headliner/BMW-Cloth-Headlining just select 134 and 3109 from the drop down menu. I emailed them if they had better options for shipping price and they came back with a pretty good quote it was around 100USD to ship 2 meters of 134. I got distracted with other projects and never ordered though. https://lemansautofabrics.co.nz/index.html This wellington place has it on their website but last I checked he didn't have any in stock and said I'd have to try ship it in from overseas.

Almost certainly causing the sensor to read wrong and throwing errors. Usually more common on cars that get rusty there. Haven't done the fix myself but if you google E46 ABS ring replacement there are loads of threads that might be helpful.

I find schmiedmann have the best pricing, but a little slower and sometimes their shipping prices aren't great. So usually I do a bulk order of parts every so often and get the most out of the shipping cost. RealOEM is the best way to get the part numbers for any bits you want, then you can just search for the part number and see who has it for the best price.

You could try your luck just swapping the head gasket out. Just because the cars overheated and the head gasket has failed, doesn't necessarily mean the engine needs to be replaced.

245/40 if you have the 8.5" rear

I think quite a lot of people think they can do a manual conversion and realise they have bitten off more than they can chew when they get to the finishing details. Coding, wiring etc. Just picked up a 130i in the same situation that I'm going through the process of finishing the coding, and tidying it up. I wonder if that's what happened with this car.

OCDetailing, @CSET

That M3 is pretty sad too. ~100K km, 2005, factory manual. Nice spec too. Very nice car. Definitely going to be some interest in it even if it's just for parts.

I would bet on the opposite. Clusters fail, the displays get dead pixels, the stalks on them are delicate and break, the needles fade and start to look like trash etc. SMG clusters are usually cheaper and more available, probably just had one swapped in. The vin decoders are usually accurate for E46 M3 unlike the non-m with regards to what trans because SMG doesn't show up as manual or automatic, it shows up as option "S793 Sequential Gearbox M Drivelogic" and they don't usually get specific options wrong. This is almost certainly a factory manual unless the vins wrong.

The usual vin decoders suggest it is a factory manual, not optioned with S793. Just looks like the cluster has been swapped out for an SMG one at some point.

Sorry mate my bad keep missing the messages. Replied now.

Yeah or course, which is why I priced mine lower despite being better condition Its an indication. I've had 4 people reach out to me in the 24 hrs I've had them listed so I think the price is close-ish, probably just a little high. Open to offers of course, otherwise I'll just hang on to them 😁

Possibly, I could be wrong. At $200 I'd just keep it though It only came in msport cars, common in sedans but not many msport coupes with this trim, let alone many msport coupes being parted these days at all, the trims are unique to the coupe. Another price example, a very beat convertible set (different rear armrests) for 500nzd. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285117312824?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 Another coupe set in average condition on a forum recently for 775nzd https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/classifieds/members-parts-for-sale-wtb/e46/149544-e46-coupe-zhp-interior-black-cube-aluminum-trim-set

Dammit I have them on trademe for 650. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/interior/listing/3975478981?bof=Jl2KuC1d Felt fair looking at other values and NZ being a smaller market for this kind of stuff and any less than that and it would have really hurt to let them go since part of me still wants them in my car.

I've had these for a little while and have gone back and forth a hundred times on whether I want to put them in my car or not. Starting to think I should just sell them since I think I prefer the look of the standard M3 titan colour trim. My understanding is they are pretty rare in coupe configuration, and these ones are in really good condition. There are pretty much no scratches on the aluminium parts and the undersides have some wear but are decent. This is a complete set, front and rear door handles, dash trim, and gear surround. I also have the elbow pads and the matte black blanking plate. I don't really know what they are worth. There is a set on ebay in similar condition to these but not including the lower sections or elbow pads for $930 NZD https://www.ebay.com/itm/275604628227?hash=item402b50e303:g:0RsAAOSwQAFjtUgr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4ILR5Zugc8zSFN326gNF4Bim6NAfMx3hjWfP3GHNdNIKq68CYJBwHmALVMw6zn2ViNRKoClGgIOvowMaFh1bFAK4C0Q5iwDeR%2B%2B8%2B7Pck2gCoj0xYKaEYs%2F7C8srPHBcerR2R84BG5jPruWux5I8MxGOzfR1bf5pM3uxt%2FnT7EZuMklY2D7Nss8Jd0UvLcr0ouIAVT1MFatuBEaFnelBODSzckeGf%2FKZnRaQLflObusK1nvMkD%2Bx31q1bSIFiLnJ9gMtbTP1mNUApyz9uhzIA3lohVcKqbIoRjQTezepe%2B22|tkp%3ABk9SR7Cbt7G_YQ Unlikely to be worth that much here but if anyone's interested make me an offer. If they aren't worth much I'll just hang onto them.

I'm sort of in the market for one of these. If it wasn't Jerez Black id be really thinking about it.

In a coupe you will almost certainly have to get it certed without the rear seat. The problems you run into is that the gap between the bucket seat and the B pillar has to be more than 300mm which it almost never is. My pole position ABE's on factory sedan sliders with Brey Krause brackets are barely 300mm if you are generous with the measurement. I don't know of a single aftermarket slider that has anywhere close to the same amount of travel as the factory sliders. The other issue is that even if you meet all those requirements if there is a seatbelt pass through as there is on pole positions, then the seatbelt obstructs the entrance to the back seat and would likely be deemed unreasonably difficult to get in and out. In addition to that you need to have a way to release the seats from the back seats which would need to be made custom, most sliders/brackets don't have that functionality. I think it might be possible to get it certed with the right seat (perhaps cobra nogaros since they don't have a seatbelt passthrough) on the right brackets such that there is a sufficient gap but when I talked to NZTA they pretty much told me it would come down the discretion of the certifier even then as to whether it was unreasonably difficult to get in or out of the backseat in an emergency. I was prepared to run the bucket seats with no cert in my E46 but my car actually had a pre-existing cert for bucket seats that were legal but doesn't specify so it still passes WOFs.