Harper

I think the last s54 to sell locally was the one weitz parted. I'm sure it sold for an eye watering figure. Definitely best bet is importing one from the states, if I was getting one that's probably what I'd do. Only thing to keep in mind is that you'll need quite a lot more than just the long block and trans to get it running in your touring. Many part differences between the S54 and M5X cars. You're better off just buying a donor M3. It's also not a plug and play swap, wiring and coding required.

https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/e66113-new?product=24-70-1-093-593 190usd from schmiedmann

I pulled an M44 from the scrapyard with 90,000km on it. It's mint inside, doesn't need a rebuild at all. But my Dad is keen on a project so has been refreshing it for his E36 318is. A bit unrelated to the rest of the thread but we took the disassembled motor to my Dad's friend from when he raced porsches. He used to build the porsche race motors, but more crucially he also built the super tourer S42s, S14s along with many M42/44. I noticed these nice looking boxes in his garage while we were there. Full set of S42 pistons, rods, cams, bunch of other parts too. Porsche 962

No coding changes required to make this work. Check the signal wiring from the FZV module to the GM5 is done correctly. Is the frequency on the key the same as that of the FZV module in your car, 315 or 433MHz?

Has to be the best kept E46 in the country

They should've developed an NA M motor out of the N52 as a successor to the S54 and put it in the 1M. The engine is the only thing that puts me off the 1M.

Sorry, unrelated to the rest of this thread. But after you pointed out those settings I disabled them on my compact. Clutch switch was wired in and working correctly but holy turning off throttle request correction and drivers wish input correction completely fixed my biggest issue with the car since building it. Previously the throttle felt super soggy and lazy, especially after driving the M3. Thanks for suggesting it. Bizarre that the DME slows the throttle plate opening and closing closing so much by default. Downshifts and throttle tip in felt so sluggish and is night and day better now, I was worried I'd have to start messing with the throttle mapping.

It's a disease. Currently 5 BMWs polluting the driveway and garage... Fortunately a new deck and lots of new concrete means I'm soon to have plenty of covered parking and work space. Good excuse to get more sh*t boxes.

No M audio, honestly I haven't even tried any of that yet. No need with an S65, rev matches are musical.

Karbonius airbox is some of the best money you can spend on an E46 M

It's even got 3 pedals. It's actually a prefacelift but converted. Updated Idrive and taillights.

Oops, new addition to the fleet

To be honest I would trust the part number on realoem over what's on the pump itself. The part numbers printed on the parts is not always exactly the same as the BMW part number. The part number you gave does not return anything on realoem.

The ABS pump is not specific to the 130i. Go to https://www.realoem.com/ and find what other models share the same part. ABS pumps at pickapart are $65. It will need to be coded to the car if you are swapping the module as well.

Yeah I think it would be between Dave and Clint Field in manukau since they are both out my way. Usually that's just a prerequisite to becoming a mechanic.

Over the weekend I cut a 100mm block of wood and stuck it under the car. It was basically a perfect fit underneath the lowest points of the car, meaning at it's lowest the car was sitting at essentially exactly 100mm off the ground. Definitely shouldn't have been a reason for failure, I'll leave that block of wood in the passenger seat when I take it in next. Hopefully the cert process doesn't take too long. Anyone have any recommendations regarding which certifier to go to? I was planning to go to Dave Page since he's just around the corner from where I work in East Tamaki.

The note on the sheet says "Chassis rail / alloy engine cover", presumably meaning the reinforcement plate. I was in a rush when I picked the car up so wasn't able to chat to the inspector about the details. I'll cut a block of wood to 100mm this weekend and check myself. Hopefully the cert process doesn't prove too painful.

@Eagle That looks ace mate. Makes me want to own an E36 318ti at some point. Mine is also overdue some properly sized michelins which should effectively raise the car a few mm as well, hopefully that is all it needs. Currently running cheapo tyres in 1 series sizes. But yes if all else fails I'll just go somewhere else. I suspect one of the testers at the shop is a ball buster because they have failed me on some dumb sh*t before, while other times they've let things slide.

Unfortunately the 330ti didn't pass the sniff test getting it's WoF, so it looks like I'll have to get it certed. Perhaps more concerning than failing on having the 'incorrect engine', it also failed on being too low. Less than 100mm from the chassis rail to the ground supposedly. Which doesn't seem right since the ride height is actually higher than it was on the standard sport suspension, and higher than the M3 as well which passes no problem so...?

I've been waiting years for a coupe with no cd changer options to come up at the scrap yard so I can get that left side boot carpet for the extra boot space. One came up about a year ago, but it had massive holes cut out of it for adjustable rear struts

I'm actually really satisfied after a few days of driving it around with how it sounds with the stock system and resonator removed. Only slightly louder than stock volume but with a better sound, even burbles and occasionally backfires on overrun.

Super cool, tempted to get it and make it fit but would require a bit of custom work since it's for a 316/318ti. The 325Ti muffler is actually also single inlet but a larger diameter than the 4cyl system. It's twin pipe back to the muffler where it merges to a single 65mm pipe into the rear muffler. 318 system is all 50mm. Just my local shop. I'm hoping they won't even question it.

I'm a big fan of the CMP coupler, have it on both my E46s and painted black as well. It's a no brainer upgrade imo. Cheaper than stock, and with essentially only upsides.

I've done about 5,000km since the motor swap and this thing has been almost perfect. Just visually keeping an eye on the dipstick, I can't really see any drop in level so oil burning so far has been negligible. It has developed a slight weep from the upper radiator hose, I've ordered one to replace asap, along with a bit of a leak from what I think is the selector shaft seal on the gearbox. Other than that it's been behaving pretty much exactly as I wanted out of a daily driver. I ended up taking it to an exhaust shop and had the resonator removed. I just wanted slightly more noise out of it but didn't want to go to an aftermarket setup which is almost always too loud. Not the prettiest thing in the world but it has made the car sound exactly as I wanted it. Still sounds very stock just slightly spicier. Previously it sounded pretty pedestrian with the fully standard 325ti exhaust system. Next up is getting it WOF'd, we'll see if it passes without a cert.

Agree. Jealous of the green coupe my dad's been tinkering on. Not fast but plenty of fun to drive, cheap on gas, would be a great first car. I must say though, getting into an E36 feels like a pretty old car these days even compared to an E46 which feels a lot more modern and safe inside.