elias

I appreciate the offer but looking for something newer unfortunately

Looking for a new project, so not something without issues, but must be reflected in price. Preferably a 6cyl diesel M-sport wagon, 325d, 330d, 335d etc, e90 or newer preferred. Can have engine issues, other mechanical issues, blown turbos, mild accident damage etc. Dont mind higher kms. Cheers.

Been slacking on keeping up with the progress here. Manual swap is all done now, was all reasonably straight forward. Installed a lightened SMF, 550i clutch, all new shifter bushings, m performance short shift kit, braided clutchline, removed the CDV and swapped to a large case 3.08diff with a Quaife ATB LSD in it. Everything works like an OEM manual car, no lights, no errors, cruise control works, reverse lights, mirror dips when going into reverse etc.

Just the 4 wires for the clutch switch correct? One ground, one to pin 18 on ecu, one to pin 3 on CAS and one to pin 41 on CAS? had another look at the clutch line routing tonight, don’t see how I’m going to route the hardline through there, no room whatsoever struggling to even get a welding wire through behind the AC box. maybe I’m doing something wrong… wiring loom takes up pretty much all real estate (looking from passenger side). HEL make a nice soft clutch line for e82 RHD. Might order one of those, but any tips/advice for how you routed the hardline would be appreciated.

Took the car to the Springfield road hillclimb up in Whangarei on Sunday, was great fun but far from ideal conditions for a rwd twin turbo car on semi slicks, absolutely no grip, was pouring down for most of the day. Made it home safely in one piece which ill call a win. Have now began the next project one ive been wanting to for a long time, a manual conversion. Diff, driveshaft, exhaust, intake manifold, starter motor and gearbox are out after a few hours of wrenching on the weekend, really not bad at all to do on jackstands. Have also removed drivers seat, brake pedal, accelerator pedal, various trims, center console, etc. Am now waiting for more parts (clutch,flywheel,diff and various shifter linkage bushings, dssr etc). Have made a start on the wiring in the meantime, removed the auto box wiring, plugged in the manual gearbox loom which is mostly plug and play, just need to disassemble DME connectors, with the exception of two plugs which are missing on the manual loom (most likely all the communication to the TCU). Only issue I can forsee is potentially some ground wires going through those plugs that other modules rely on. Next up will be figuring out the clutch switch wiring to FRM/CAS/DME. Will also need to get a clutch line made as I dont really want to try have to run the factory hardline behind the dash.

Hahah more or less, that’s Ray, he actually built my halfcage for me, great guy.

Looking for a front undertray for a E87, 2008 123d Motorsport hatch. In Auckland, closer to the shore or Avondale the better. Cheers

Tried @HELLBM?

Personally think the n54 in the 1M can be a great engine with proper maintenance and some modifications. While i dont own a 1M i own the closest thing a 135i, that is about to be manual swapped. Have recently put a completely refreshed engine with a whole bunch of upgraded parts, including hybrid turbos, with a very mild tune (14psi) it made 470hp and 630Nm @engine. The main difference being power held on all the way up top, and power delivery being far more linear now with the custom tune, driving much more like an N/A car. I think once its manual swapped (with genuine oem M perf. short shift kit) it will be a fantastic drivers car, can only imagine how good the 1M must drive with the wide tires and m3 suspension.

Right i See, thank you anyways

that would be great, thank you.

Wanting to buy gloss black pre lci kidney grills for a 2008 123d 5door hatch.

Hello, not strictly 130i related but e87 related. Yesterday I acquired a 123d hatch (2008, pre-LCI) as a daily driver. Loving it so far, being NZ new it is an interesting spec. I would like to put a double din headunit into it, has anyone here done so before on a pre lci e87? Ive got manual AC and no iDrive. Any advice would be appreciated, particularly relating to what physical bits are required to mount it, wiring should be ok. Lower dash conversion necessary?

welcome, 135is are great fun, being that it has CCC iDrive im assuming it has the notorious N54 engine? Have got a N54 135i myself that I've done a fair bit of work to, feel free to reach out if you have any questions or need a hand!

Looking for 8 bolt flywheel for a n54. Can swap for a 6 bolt.

👀👀

Car has been running great for the last couple months. Everything more or less finished off. Oil coolers and lines are done, made a custom catch can set up using aeroflow catchcans, essentially a fully external pcv system. Used Rob Beck fittings as well as some custom machined adapters to adabt oem fittings to -10AN flares for the high side. Also made a blanking plate for the dash where i removed the radio. In other news, car will be getting a major change in the next few months thats been planned for a long time...

if its an n54 one, theres plenty of replacment n54s around, have a look on trademe. Not hard to swap either, recently replaced mine in my 135i.

Looking to buy a n54 manual box, gs6-53bz. Cheers

Been a minute... very busy time. Engine is back in the car, everything is connected back up. Cut and welded the chargepipe and throttle body for a wiggins style clamp, bonnet latch got zinc coated and a few other bits and pieces tidied up. Downpipes are back in also, very painful job, o2 sensors back in and new exhaust is almost finished. Full stainless 3inch exhaust from the downpipes back, with a single adrenalin r louvre baffle resonator. All thats left now is the oil cooler setup, parts are on the way, fresh aeroflow oil coolers and all teflon line and fittings. Also will be putting in a check valve and a tee to allow for an accusump to be fitted at a later stage. Parts should arrive soon and then it will be ready to be fired up and dyno tuned. Will try and keep this updated more often.

CCC iDrive unit from a 2008 135i. $500 can also come with the controller for extra

yep sold. I do however have a set of style 386 wheels for sale if you're after 1 series wheels.

Looking for single replacement wheel, not a full set. Either 18x8.5 et45 or 18x9.5 et58 in a APEX EC-7 preferably in grey. Hoping someone has one lying around from a crashed car etc Cheers!

Has been a busy few weeks but have managed to get a fair bit done. Took advantage of the long weekend (Auckland Anniversary) and pulled to old motor out the car. Wasn't too bad of a job, a bit messy with all the coolant and oil that keeps spilling out and a few bolts that were a little tricky to reach but not too bad all in all apart from the downpipes that put up a real fight. So, old motor is out, most parts stripped off it. New motor is mostly assembled apart from the hot side. Turbos will be getting dropped off for a rebuild and slightly different CHRAs tomorrow. Have since installed a VAC sump baffle in the new motor, put on the sump with a new gasket and new bolts torqued to NEWtis spec of course. Valve cover is on, also new genuine gasket, same with oil filter housing vanos solenoids etc etc, all new gasket the whole way round and new bolts where applicable. Injectors are in again new seals and decouplers. Front main seal going in soon, wiring loom is half on. Waiting on turbos before i install water pump and thermostat. Then inlets and outlets will go on and the motor can go back in the car. I have cleaned the entire empty engine bay subframe steering rack etc and installed new Condorspeedshop engine mounts, have matching ones for the gearbox also. Have also stripped and cleaned the inline oil thermostat to ensure there are no metal bits in it and reassembled it with a 93C insert instead of the 85C insert to help car reach operating temp when street driven. Some photos below. Front end of the car coming off Engine coming out Sump baffle going in New motor with baffled sump installed New genuine gaskets Inejctors getting new seals and decouplers Engine bay being cleaned up Valve cover and injectors on the new engine New engine mounts Loom half on Oil thermsotat rebuild

A bunch of parts have arrived, the entire ECS tuning order of all the gaskets and one time use bolts, as well as the rod bearings. Condorspeedshop engine and transmission mounts showed up too, as well as some oe braided vacuum line. Also got the aftermarket oil pressure sensor and wiring i will be hooking up to the ECU as from factory there is only a pressure switch. Pulled the sump back off again, oil pump back out, and began replacing the rod bearings. Pretty straight froward job just have to pay attention and be careful, and make sure to work in a clean environment. Did rod bearings one at a time, cap off, push rod off crank, remove both bearing shells, clean surfaces, install new rod bearings, clean crank shaft, install dry with plastiguage, torque back down with old bolts, remove cap, check clearance, clean up plastigauge residue, lubricate bearing surfaces and crank, bolt back together with new OEM rod bolts and torque to 20nm + 2x 70* as prescribed by bmw NEWtis. Just got to do it 6 times. Then put the oil pump and tray back on, all new bolts once again, torqued and stretched to spec. Then placed sump back on, not putting on new gasket/bolts just yet as I am still waiting for VAC motorsport to ship my baffle, they are being extremely slow. In the meantime, trying to organize turbo rebuild, also need to order 6x new injector seals and decoupling elements from bmw as well as a coolant temp sensor. Will also need new oil coolers... but getting there. Been seeing lots of interesting videos of turbolamik 8hp swaps which have me intrigued, the shift times look pretty damn quick...