elias

No no holes yet, just in the lower left corner of the photo, a bit of lip has disappeared but no holes from what I can see, majority appears to be surface rust apart from where the lip has crumbled away. plan is to get the whole engine bay repainted once the engine is out, to adress any potential rust in the firewall as well which I’m sure I’ll find. also need to get the area around the boot seal repainted as rust has started to form there too, but again no holes yet.

As above, m20b20 Engine and Autobox out of a 320i pfl. please read carefully, suspected cracked head. Oil in coolant. Suit rebuild/head replacement. Was still running before being taken out of car. Gearbox works perfectly. price $100 or whatever you want to pay for it, I don’t have space for it. Will be getting removed in the next week. If nobody wants it will be getting scrapped, seems like a waste of a perfectly good gearbox and bottom end. not looking to sell parts seperately, come grab the whole thing take what you need and scrap the rest.

Price drop - $1000

Not too sure yet, found a guy who may be able to sell me a complete z4 clutch kit to suit 22 spline 5 speed, with dmf, but not sure what size that clutch is.

Made a start this weekend. Got the car inside and up on jackstands, started getting it ready to pull the engine and gearbox. Removed the loom completely and any hoses, lines wires etc that join the engine to the car. Exhaust and drive shaft removed as well, as well as the auto shifter. Only thing holding it in now are engine mounts and the gearbox cross member, plan is to try and remove engine and gearbox in one go. i have unfortunately discovered a bit of rust under the cowl panel so not sure what to do about that just yet. Will see how much more I find once the engine is out and I can have a better look at the firewall. Any reccomendations for rust repair or even a panelbeater to do said rust repairs and repaint the engine pay for reasonable $ would be appreciated. the m52 has been stripped down partially, in order to give it a good clean. Parts have started showing up, have also ordered vanos rebuild kit, engine mounts (24v swap specific), 2002 brake reservoir for e90 booster swap and a whole bunch of other gaskets and bits for the m52. So next up is pull out the engine, rust repairs, figure out which brackets I can cut out of the engine bay, then get the engine bay painted and start reassembling the m52 in the meantime.

hi Paul, yes those do match up with what I’m after, how much are you after for them and where are you located?

So much better on the style 193s. You could get those wheels from OEM in ferric grey. Always thought they looked really good in that color, especially with a meaty tire and some spacers to get them sitting flush.

Hmm probably more than I’m looking to spend have worked out that the 22 spline will work in my application, but out of curiosity how much are you after for the zf?

Too much conflicting information online, spoke to Kayne Barrie on the phone who was super helpful and obviously one of if not the most knowledgeable guy when it comes to bmw gearboxes/diffs. He confirmed that the late e46 getrag 220/250 whatever you prefer to call it that I have is in fact identical in every way bar the number of splines and the release bearing sleeve size to e36/early e46 getrag 220s. the one I’ve got (late e46) has 22 splines rather than 10 and 40mm sleeve rather than 38. The sleeve can be swapped to use the more common release bearing. E36/46 clutches work, as long as you use a 22 spline friction disc. Pilot bearing is still in the back of the crankshaft, Input shaft is the same length. So will be sticking with my gearbox and using an e46/z4 dmf and clutch kit, probably better anyway for a streetcar.

Interesting, I wonder how different it is being single vanos

Anyone in Auckland got m52 timing tools, want to do a vanos rebuild, incl. rattle. It’s a single vanos m52b28. I have all the parts gaskets etc. cheers i also have, 32mm spanner (fan clutch), 50mm crows foot (e8x/e9x driveshaft/diff nut), code scanner, ratcheting Torx spanners, and a few other tools I’m happy to lend out.

Yeah hard to find out what exactly I need. Another alternative is a z4 clutch kit, they appear to use the same gearbox as the late model e46. Could be worth while, and keep the oem clutch feel. have a very light weight single mass and a unsprung clutch disc in my 135i, that cad is horrendous to daily drive.

As above, looking for a g220 out of an e36 325i. Or a zf from a 328i. Can do swap for a late e46 g220 + cash if it’s a zf. Being used in an e30 so the 10 spline is preferred. cheers.

It is a 5 speed box from what I understand just out of a late model 325i e46. Upon doing some research it appears to be identical to the 10 spline box out of a e36 apart from the number of splines. slave/master is the same between the two boxes, pilot bearing has the same part number. i can get a clutch kit for an e36 with a smf and the seller has a matching 22 Spline clutch disc for it. https://oscardistributors.com/products/e36-e46-m50-m52-odp-smf-clutch-kit?_pos=2&_sid=c0412403e&_ss=r Vendor says he has a 22 spline disc to suit instead of the 10 spline. From what I understand that should do the trick?

Wouldn’t work with e36 flywheel, starter and 22spline clutch disc? i understand that it won’t work with e30 clutch/m20 flywheel.

E46 getrag 5 speed $1200

Right I See, I Wonder if my gearbox is potentially out of an e46. This is the input shaft it’s the one with more/smaller splines.

https://www.facebook.com/share/1ANaiwceBb/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Awesome thanks for the info. Are running an m52b28 with a getrag220 e36 box? What was needed to make the clutch work, I’ve got a m20 flywheel but not sure which clutch kit I’ll need as it’ll have to fit the e36 box input shaft, the m20 flywheel and have a sprung disc, and hold b28 power. Car will never see the track. Have another car for that. Yeah have heard that e90 booster is the way to go, so will do that.

Ive Seen this car in Person, recognised the plate, the paintjob looked pretty questionable up close

As above, looking for m52 coolant hoses. 14, 13, 8, potentially 1,2 as well. 5&7 I take go to the heater core? Will be a bit different as it’s going into an e30.

Yeah that’s a fair point might just leave engine as is for now, was looking into doing m54 intake cam swap and m50 manifold later down the line potentially. Will probably do exhaust though as I don’t want to use the m20b20 exhaust. Definitely not an open cheque book as the 135i isn’t going anywhere. Still trying to figure out the clutch situation too, I have a m20 flywheel, that has been machined to fit the m52 with front bowl sump, but not sure which clutch kit to use to work with the m20 flywheel and g220 box. diff is another concern not sure what to do about the diff as the e36 box is 1:1 5th unlike the e30 boxes.

Awesome thank you that’s very helpful information. Yep I’ve got a big metal coolant pipe that splits into a few different ends that sits below the intake. Will start there. Sweet will keep the ccv oem in that case particularly if it’s mostly under the intake manifold anyway. Would you swap to an m50 manifold? Is it worth the extra $? Apologies for the many questions this m5x stuff is fairly new to me, mostly been spending my time on the n54/55 engines.

Thank you! I paid $2300 for engine, loom, ecu, g220 manual box, shifter, linkage, e34 front sump, front pick up, dipstick, m20 flywheel (machined for e34 sump), m20 starter motor, clutch, and some other odds and ends. So it’s hard to say what I paid for the motor.

Are those seals best ordered from beisan systems? Yeah going to have to try figure out the whole coolant line, and ccv situation I bought the engine somewhat disassembled so no clue what goes where and what bits I’m missing. I’ve seen some people delete the ccv in favour of a catchcan, is there any merit in that? Want to keep things as simple as possible the less hoses and valves etc the better.