elias

Anyone got an f87 m2 with mechanical issues or is in another other way damaged, hence cheap? Long shot I know but looking for a new project, not worried about kms, spec etc etc, just has to be an m2 and pref. not insurance write off. Update: Will also consider e92 m3s, pref. lowish kms though. Can offer swap for a modified 135i, or sell the 135 and do cash. Cheers

Got the car back from the Panelbeater this evening, looks the best it ever has. Both doors and the rear quarter resprayed. If you ever need panelbeating/paint work done in Auckland I can't recommend Neville at Bute Collision Repair Browns Bay enough, absolute legend always does an amazing job and very reasonable prices, this job was 1/5th the cost of what other places had quoted. Safe to say i wont be parking it on that Culdesac anymore.

im sure therred be a fuel pump fuse somewhere, but have never looked, easy enough to just pull the injector wires.

Took the car out for a drive and decided to take some photos last night before dropping it off to get the speed stripes fixed today.

nice! where does one find a deal like this? would love another n54 project

Priming your engine oil is only necessary if you interrupt the the oil supply circuit such as removing the oil filter housing, removing the oil cooler or oil cooler lines etc. A normal oil change wont require priming. The easiest way to prime the oil is to disconnect all 6 fuel injector's electrical connectors, then crank the engine for 10 seconds, give it 20 seconds to allow the starter motor to cool off again, then repeat 2 more times. The starter motor will turn over the engine which will run the oil pump and prime your oil. Then plug all the fuel injectors' connectors back in and start the car.

have asked, nobody has any cameras and nobody saw anything

Glad your car didnt decide to eat the belt, is a fairly common cause for engine failure. The oil causes the belt to swell, it slips off the pulley, due to the design of the crank pulley it can only slip off backwards and gets forced through the crankseal into the sump, and clogs the oil pickup causing loss of oil pressure and in many cases catastrophic failure. Can get crank seal guards to help prevent this for peace of mind, but keeping on top of gaskets and squeaky tensioners/idlers is the best method. I had my car towed home when i noticed a failed OFHG, just me being extra careful. Oil filter/oil cooler gasket isnt the most fun job, makes one hell of a mess. Make sure to prime your engine oil before you start your car to be safe as well! Have don this job a coupe times now haha

yep, not a single other car on the street has been damaged. Yeah only park it there due to ongoing house renovations which means no garage and a cross lease driveway with an unfriendly neighbour. Once fixed I will find somewhere else to keep it, had enough. I appreciate it regardless! Pretty gutted but not much I can do, I will get it repaired and learn my lesson not to park it in public places anymore.

People who key cars, just had both sides of my car keyed, wtf is wrong with you, what makes you think you have the right to f**k up other peoples property.

made my own one of these, cost me effectively $0, had some flatbar lying around and had my brother tig weld it up for me. Thanks for the inspiration, works very well!

Speaking of damage to the car, someone has decided they dont like my car very much and thought it would be a good idea to key it. Not only one side, but both. Absolutely gutted, spend so much time and money on this car just for someone to walk past and decide to f**k it up. Clearly intentional, done both sides, on of which repeatedly with some serious aggression. Occurred on the same culdesac as the previous damage to the front bumper/fender. Honestly don't know why someone would do this, they gain nothing from it. Car is going to the panelbeater on monday, not looking forward to the bill, being a fulltime student money isnt exactly something i have lots of. Spoke to all the neighbors, nobody has a camera or saw anything, and insurance is only 3rd party so will be paying for it myself. Pretty upset and not exactly very encouraging, when people continually find ways to destroy your hard work. Originally the plan was to start racing the car, but that might have to wait a bit now.

yeah i agree, definitely wouldnt want to drill any holes. I just bolted my bracket onto the end of the frame rail using the some bolts. Didnt drill a single extra hole into the car just made the brackets to suit. Can sort of see it in the photo below if you squint. Main reason for making these brackets was to try place the coolers directly behind the 1m rep bumpers air scoops, which should make the ducting simpler. Brakes look awesome!

Awesome work! Did a similar oil cooler setup on my 135i, interested to see how you do the air ducting, yet to do that for my bumper, should provide an improvement in the effectiveness of the coolers. Mounted my coolers onto the frame rail ends, and into the radiator support where the ducting used to attach. (Oem oil cooler has since been removed).

yeah I feel your pain, very frustrating. I never found out who caused the damage on my car but someone seems to have a problem, they bent the mirror forwards on my other car (e91) when it was parked there, and have snapped the mirror off my brother's vintage land cruiser 4 times, clearly more than coincidence at this point. But not much you can do.

I went through a similar process recently getting my Sparco seats certified. Impossible to find an engineers report for the parts I used so I drilled 2 holes into the transmission tunnel and used lvv doubler plates. Bit of a tedious job, but looks very tidy in the end. Only other thing I could think of is to see if maybe you could find an engineering consulting business in NZ that could take a look at the parts you are using and see if they would be willing to write a report attesting to the strength of the rails? Out of curiosity which cert guy are you going through?

cheers for the recomendation, ill take a look! In other news my logbook arrived today, and ive submitted the paperwork for the homologation so I guess its officially a racecar now?

Got round to working on the car again, really not a whole lot left to do on it at this point. Hoping to race Superlap next season so decided the next thing to do was to install harness eyebolts. That being said it definitely does need some bigger swaybars, adjustable end links, a baffled sump and potentially a transmission oil cooler later on... For now i drilled more holes in the car and installed a harness, its an expired one (FIA 2020) that i had lying around but should still be good for MSNZ clubsport events till 2025 and can easily be swapped out for any other 6 point harness. All eyebolts installed with the appropriate MSNZ approved doubler plates. Also got a MSNZ spec fire extinguisher that ive got to come up with a mounting bracket for. In other news, car officially has a MSNZ logbook! Still need to submit the paperwork for the Rollbar Homologation, and then get my motorsport license. Then just a matter of emptying my bank account to buy all the safety gear, trying to race your car is not a cheap exercise haha...

in an ideal world, you wouldnt pass if you had illegal modifications, if you dont, then you dont need a cert

when i went to get my wof fail sheet for cert, they failed me for the noise level of my exhaust but not the fact that i had relocated seatbelt anchorages to the transmission tunnel, just goes to show how they focus on the wrong things often.

looks like a reasonable price to me, these cars aren't cheap. Depending on service history etc N54 can be a gamble, but if you don't mind getting your hands dirty it would be a great buy imo. If you were in auckland Id give you a hand, have gained a fair bit of knowledge on the n54 over the last couple years. N54+dct is a great combo when working right. But at this price don't expect it to be a flawless car, be prepared to keep a bit of money aside for potential DCT service, gasket replacements (valve cover, oil filter housing, oil cooler, sump being the main ones) and possibly water pump, high pressure fuel pump + injectors.

if its the ones for sale on Facebook market place, being sold by Jason Ganley, its these ones, I sold them and replaced them with BC golds. They installed into the car fine, divorced rear. I replaced all 4 springs with BC springs, 8kg/12kg as per BC spec (vs 12kg/14kg that came with the aragosta) but still found them far too harsh for NZ roads, felt every little bump straight though your spine. Very happy with the BC golds I have in the car now, running the same spring set up, but a much smoother damping and large range of adjustability.

could always try see if a slim plate would work better, you can find the dimensions on kiwi plates

is that taken at milford mall? looks familiar haha not far from me

Sweet as cheers for that, much appreciated!