polley

tbh im bored of it and want to go faster.

PM me, ill take you for a spin. took this quick video from today. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecCjoF3f-sU...eature=youtu.be

I always thought the dynavin units looked tacky.

Sorry I know its the wrong section, but I figured this one gets more views. A friend needs a radiator for m52 e36 in palmerston north, if anyone has one for sale. Cheers.

Nah and just playing..... or maybe not

rust the whole car or ur gay.

Mine was just touching the manifold using the same booster (E32), but I slotted the firewall holes diagonally to move it down and across to gain some clearance room. So it could be a combination of that and the mounts you are using. I used E34 mounts iirc (M20 ones)

tab is not magnetic.

Cleaned up all the front wiring for headlights etc, since it had fallen apart and at one point got sucked into the electric fan. Removed unneccsary wires like fan and aircon, and ran washer pump wires to the boot. Investigated my exhaust leak, it's leaking from the turbo to downpipe v-band, because the wastegate pipe is a fly sh*t too short and pulled the whole lot over. The wastegate v-band is much more stout, so the dump pipe one gave way first. My jimmies are severely rusteled, and I left before I was tempted to throw something through the windscreen.

This should take you no longer than 30 mins to sort out. .. it's 3 wires. Remove the remote wire and connect it directly to +12v, this removes the headunit from the picture (even though it sounds like its not the issue anyway). Get your volt meter out and measure the voltage drop on your earth and +12v connections, this will tell you what wire / connection is giving you trouble. Fix the offending wire. Enjoy your skrillex.

ditch the horses / gf and get the v8 bogan mobile.

All M50 ones I have seen do not need removing of the large hub bolt to remove the harmonic balancer / trigger.

it will spit it out because the heated and expanding water has no where to go and eventually the radiator cap vents the excess pressure.

stretched tyres are sh*t car needs a clean

Try the heatgun first, hopefully the plastic will return back to original shape. Sanding will make it a horrible mess imo.

Knock sensors are no biggie. And yes, I meant check the fuel pump is running while cranking (and wired correctly) to confirm ECU is getting crank / trigger signal. I'm pretty sure there is no difference in trigger wheels between m50 vanos and non vanos, only between m50 and m52. But either way you will need the correct one.

Try the ECU in another car, best way to check it. While cranking the engine the fuel pump is running correct? If so, the DME is getting some sort of crank signal - it only runs the pump while it is receiving one. Pull a plug and check for spark - its the easiest way to confirm it. Also, does anyone have a m50 trigger wheel to compare to a m52 trigger wheel? The missing teeth may be in a different location.

connecting the remote to the 12v is fine.

Sorry, was thinking most grinders etc were 2400watt, but they are only about 1200

Completely. It would struggle to run a grinder, I cant think of any power tools it would run.

What kind of tools do you think you could run from this?

I think you forgot some decimal places when you printed your labels

I took mine from where vanos would usually take its oil from. The non vanos oil filter housing seems to still have the port there for it.

coupe or 4 door?

wheels look good. I've got a 3.64 open diff here if you're still after one.