325_driver

i would have to agree there, it takes more time prepping getting the car ready. e.g. jacking the stupid thing up, especially if you dont have axel stands, much like our first time, of about 3 days removal time. But after its out you soon realize how fed up of removing an engine you are

Since alot of the people on here, have ripped engines out of their cars constantly, or if your a e30 owner, probably 2 times a week or some thing stupid. What sort of times do people have for cleanly, take note cleanly getting a engine out of the car. Due to a stupid fault in the head, we had to rip the engine out again, just after it went in. Managed to keep the engine extraction in under an hour ! With 2 people Would be interesting to see what sort of times there are with other peoples engine transplants, how many people, tools, gear etc

I believe it has been diagnosd, which actually is a PAIN IN THE ####, it would appear (this is my brothers car that he wanted me to attend to, i dont think i would get caught doing silly things like this) That when he was wacking the rocker rails in, he may have punched a hole in the side of one, e.g. oil spewing out the end ! Might grab a photo of it, when its out

O, and if possible, does any one have any links, to a running m20, under the rocker cover, to see what a decent amount of oil coming from the oil rail is. Oil rail along the top was taken off, cleaned etc it doesn't appear to be squirting, more so dripping

Right this problem, may be related to taking the cam in and out, all proceedures were followed carefully, nothing was slammed / wacked, cam was polished etc. So in the photo below, you will notice i am pointing to the top left corner of the head. Which im meaning cylinder 6, intake side. I may not be pointing to the exact location, but there abouts, may be closer to under the cam. But when its running youll see a big puddle of oil go up in volume, and over the side Intense amounts of oil pressure is coming out there, and spewing over the rocker cover. Any clue ? This is quite urgent, as its spilling about 1/2 litre per 10 second run Cheers

It is firing now, if im to take a guess, since the clearances seemed WAY out, my brother looked at the 0.025" measurement instead of the 0.25mm measurement, easy mistake if your not entirely with it ! and dizzy cap was facing various crazy locations, they are very precise things those m20's so take note, tripple check clearances, tripple check tdc marks before putting together, can be a time wasting experience.

Thanks for that, um it has 2 pins, well 2 wires, brown, and brown/white stripe, what does this connect to, possibility it has been removed, the old owner has done some interesting DIY / modifications, but worked fine before taking it out. Am removing cam covers as we speak, to do timing propperly, any one got a e30 m20, 323 / 325 fsm, or could they direct me to a diagram, with what lines are facing what Thanks heaps

hey guys e30 m20b23 its got fuel, spark compression not firing at all, have tryed dizzy in every possible location, clearances are fine, etc any chance this thing in the photo has any thing to do with it? where does it plug into ? its not the one that goes to the AFM, looks like its the one that goes to the valve thats usually infront of the afm, which isnt there. Might be some model variance.

There was a thread on here some time ago that i cant find How ever, can any one recommend what oil i should be using in a ZF S-5 16 gearbox Jonathan

sweet will let you know, turns out there was another spare one, but i wont know if its usable till it gets back from the engine reconner's

need CAM to suit m20 323i / 325 or maybe even the complete head if some one has spare

Thanks silver fox, i will go with that, you seem to know your way around the BMW gear boxes. Was just wondering, i havent seen many, and there were no obvious getrag markings, the last place i saw a box like that was from my e34 m30 i think

but they happily bolt up to a 6 cylinder m20, strange, apparently their from e30 Cabrio's also ? http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E30/Cabr...ttaching_parts/

according to wikipedia no, there are ZF auto and Manual ranges, i have the gear box in front of me, i see input shaft, release bearing, slave cylinder and all. A little confused thats all, wondering if they actually originally from e30, or whether their from a e36 ?

wondering if any one can tell me the difference between the traditional m20 boxes and the ZF-16 box, why are they some times found in e30's ? where did they originate from, what are they best mounting up to ? i am told it will still bolt up to a m20 motor are the ZF box's stronger ? Edit: To be more precise it is ZF S5 - 16 some other numbers, inside bell housing 89/8 2741 out side 1048 - 401 - 134 and 1048 - 401 - 111

Gotcha, ive got a decent enough write up about it, but it was with the head off. I might do a write up with the engine in the car. See how i go

does the cam come out towards the radiator ? or towards firewall ? i think the engine might as well come out any way, need to do gearbox, will probably kill two birds 1 stone

hey guys, having a nosey in the head, do i need to remove the head to remove the cam ? i am aware that you need a special tool, but there are carefull ways arround that.

Was it the release bearing ? or some thing else

ricer for the win ! i love it, hahahah

Rail is tight, my brother was driving it far too long, and i heard the noise gradually evolve to its current state, so im pretty certain that the cam is damaged. Just the next question is do i replace the cam, or do i replace the cam and all the rockers also ? Waiting on some advice from glenn on that. Jonathan

Might be interested, will have a chat to my brother whos having issues with his car

oops, your in Chch, still interested, if freight could be organised ? Dont worry about it, if its too much hassle

Depending on whether the cam is munted, Does any one have a head to suit a m20b23 motor ? are b25 heads the same ? I have a possibly worn cam, due to some oil problems in the oil rail, and maybe a bung rocker arm. So if i can get a decently priced head i might be tempted to just do the swap, giving me an excuse to do the head gasket Jonathan

Yeah i went on the assumption first that i mucked up the clearances, looks like the other set of feeler gauges, all be it they had the same numbers on them, didnt look like the same distance. So i used a friends feeler gauges, re did the clearances, fired straight away, purrs nicely. But kudos you glenn, because i think you nailed some thing on the head, about the oil pressure through the rail, i could only notice it during the dark when the light was on one rail, and oil was squirting fine, but the other 4 it was barely dripping. Could this mean use thinner oil? or replace the rail ? so i manually squirted oil on the place where the rocker hits the cam and the noise dissapeared substantially, the clearances were way out before, so it was a good thing the clearances were done in the first place. So could i have your recommendation's glenn, would the cam and rocker arm be worn ? or is it the rocker arm that would need to be replaced ? Thank you for your excellent insight.