Eagle

They were $240 odd in 235/45R17 when i bought them from Hyper. Seen them a little cheaper and seen them more expensive.

Ive got PS4's on my E39 beater. Spending a few hundred more to get superior rubber is never overkill given they aren't expensive to begin with.

Looks pretty typical but you picked a good time to do it anyway

Meaning like buying a good used updated one then tearing it to inspect it, replacing anything that's needed. Yeah its rolling the dice to an extent but would think it would be a better base to start from than an older one that had some significant wear already. Would think it would be the cheaper option also. I guess really it comes down to what extend its going to be rebuilt and your MBI policy as you mentioned.

Would of thought sourcing an good updated one then inspecting it would be the best bet, assuming you can find one.

Japanese imports always have the air injection systems fitted. For removal you will need a blanking plate for the exhaust manifold (either bought one or fabricated) and some vacuum line. I did have a spare plate one lying around and will have a quick look to see if i can find it.

Hyper are good when deals are on. Some brands and sizes are overpriced while some are under. Used to use Bridgestone quite a bit but you gotta find the right branch.

Yeah need serial port

I used to Carsoft 6.5 which could do it though its hidden away in a box somewhere i cant find. Surely someone on here in Auckland would have what you are looking for and may help you out.

Good examples are on the rise though ive only seen a couple of upper tier examples for sale in the last couple of years. I think people are holding on to good examples as they were the last of the classic era BMW's. Average lower spec\displacement autos are pretty much stayed the same (2-3k mark) Id say 4-5k if its tidy but hasn't had money thrown at it (ie full engine, suspension refresh etc etc)

M30B35 would be the way id go imo given you have all the engine and transmission parts, B35 is way more reliabile than M52\M54 and much easier to work. Put the savings towards fuel as that's main negative

Up to you really, im sure everyone has their own way they would tackle it. I guess many would prob live with the rear toed out esp if they already had the rear end off. When i did mine the 2nd time i got a new 2nd hand arm and did the adjustable kit at the same time. The subframe brackets where the arm mounts may of even been out a bit causing trailing arm angle changes, hard to eye ball things like these unless they are way out. I got to toe down to negative 0.5mm-1.00mm from -3-4mm and dailed back the camber a bit. This was with 40mm H&R's. You can remove the trailing arms without dropping the subframe if you have or can make slimmed head 18mm? spanner. As for the front so you are still bottoming out on l\h side? if the towers look and check out ok then id replace the whole strut with kingpin etc on that bad side with a new insert just to be sure. Given you were bottoming out to me its the easiest and not too expensive route that is likely to solve the problem first time. I believe camber plates technically require a cert and strut brace isn't going to help fix a camber problem like that.

Assuming everything is installed correctly, tyres\wheels are good, what are the ride heights? Rear - All my 80's lowered 30-40mm BMW's were about 2-3mm toed out in the rear with new shocks and sometimes springs. These were all old cars and on NZ roads so im certain the trailing arms etc get fatigued over time. Eccentric toe\camber plates was one the best mods i did with my old E30. Putting a another trailing arm in may or may not help (did on my old E30 that was with new shocks, springs, mounts ) Front - Strut tower deforming or actual strut housing come to mind

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1804655579.htm?rsqid=59ee4f504fc749f197fc4d04bf5cfc24 It may well be the tidiest one ive ever seen but adding all your labor costs onto the price is bit much for me

Only had one problem with VR and that was a headgasket along time ago. Used their diff seals a couple of times. I have 2x VR output seals\rings with that part no if you want them - $30 incl postage if you want them

Crazy given they are poorly designed garbage. FCP euro have a special discount @ 324 NZD. maybe the dealer should order some.

Was it some lower quality aftermarket brand?

Pelican are offering FedEx now too but FCP are the cheapest and fastest. Only use Pelican now when FCP doesn't stock something.

Lost count of how many ive ordered over the years, never had an issues. E39 front Meyle struts cost me $80 USD to ship from FCP back in April 2017, the struts themselves cost me $116 USD on special Good old 80's BMW's with their strut inserts were much cheaper to buy and ship

Every time i hear someone crying about BMW parts being expensive i ask them when was the last time you went to their dealer for parts. Answer is almost always never.

Looks tidy for the age but photos aren't good. Would be interesting what the mechanical side of things is like.

Most of us here work on our own cars and have good reasons for preferring them for certain requirements but they aren't the be all and end all esp these days. No one with crediblity is going to recommend buying a BMW because its a BMW Plenty of good options for 'nice' hatchbacks these days.

Have you got a decent scanner? Surely EGS codes would give some info

1. Definitely get it checked out. If the independent BMW garage has a good rep then id go with them, if not the dealer. 2. If it checks out fine it may not be worth it given the price of the car but no one knows for sure what can happen or not. At those k's i would hope its had a transmission services and suspension work along the way. 3. Hard to say without exactly seeing the car. Sounds a bit overpriced to me gives its a high k 1 series. +1 to E46

* Note - Better also pertains to the ability to experience falling apart and breaking down