Eagle
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Everything posted by Eagle
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From an E39 so yes they would fit. They are 17" rims and run a 235\45 tyre as above.
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Bubba's handiwork isn't commonplace in BMW's compared to your typical jap and aus car but it hurts when its unfixable on a nice car
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Must be a record dig. I doubt he would still have it but messaging him would of been the better play.
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Yep 10mm double hex. You can also wind the nuts off half way off the bolts, leave the socket and a extension attached and hit them with a hammer to assist bolt removal
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Nice. If you still had your 6 you'd have a nice cylinder collection going, but 8-12 is still a good effort.
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The cheapest RHD i can find is well over $240 overseas and that's without shipping so that price ain't too bad for NZ. Either way its one of those BS priced BMW items.
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RC centers usually hold up well, the factory paint on them is quite tough. Bolts have to tapped out, lots of ways to do it (google) but i soak in penetrating oil and use a long center punch and hammer, the bolt ends also have a little recess on them which helps. I use a padded dead blow hammer to knock them back in I get the curbing machined if its deep or sand out any mirror stuff on polished lipped rims. Id probably fill and paint if non polished.
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^^^ Me too but it certainly looks very unique. Would hope it to be mechanically sorted at that price but we all know its probably on mostly original suspension etc like most of them.
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Local Mercedes dealer here charged me $230 for a scan but least i got a free wash\wax and a print out(made sure of that). Cost me $600 to buy a clone Benz system which is identical to the dealers. No reason not to get something like this for a BMW, luckily its quite cheap - https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-GT1-OBD-Diagnostic-interface-K-DCAN-using-BMW-DIS-v57-SSS-v32/322040849998?epid=1988639544&hash=item4afb21664e:g:zOkAAMXQxzZRfgfs&vxp=mtr You could also get some thing more basic like BMW scanner 1.4.0 which is cheaper\fastest but less indepth. May suit you fine. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Scanner-V1-4-0-for-BMW-E38-E39-E46-E53-E83-E85-Unlock-Version-Diagnos-New-B/263366565931?hash=item3d51dee02b:g:4FoAAOSwk-1aJk3L
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Yeah thanks saw your ones. Covers are probably the main difference, mine have held up very well for their age. Got some BBS metal valves that should work with these also
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Forged staggered variety 17x8 17x9 ET20 ET22 Wheel covers,caps and paint are original and still quite tidy. Curbing machined and lips polished. Have replaced BMW center logos and cover bolts(stainless hex type) with new items If i had a suitable car these would be on it right now, the problem is im unsure when\if i will get the said car. I may regret it but just seeing if there is any interest before i look into storing them away for the future Have 235 and 245 tyres with good tread that can go on but they aren't worthy imo to fitted. Better photos can be taken for serious buyers if needed $2000
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Yep the key the owning a BMW is having money to burn or knowing where to look if you don't. Most people i talk to that think BMW's are expensive to fix\run were the type that went to the dealer for parts, not one of them thought about looking overseas.
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You should be able to use the hidden OBC functions to get an idea of battery voltage whilst running. Test 9 will give you the info. http://www.bmw-driver.net/forum/showthread.php?t=31204 As well as FSU some of those early climate control panels can develop a drain, later E46 have a smaller updated version. Manually turning it off before turning off the car is the way to test that.
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Sure price does factor in the equation but there's no decent online ordering system in NZ for new BMW parts.
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I have found another set of wheels i will be restoring instead so these are no longer wanted Fronts - 18x8 ET13 Rear - 18x9.5 ET25 Includes 4x genuine BMW center caps and \\M logos's Curbing on the lips has been machined and clear coat removed from inner barrels,face and lips One wheel has some undisclosed damage when i bought it. A weld repair has been done to fix some damage. I have had the wheel checked by Wheel and Frame Cambridge and it runs true Plan was to respray or powder coat the inner barrels and faces and leave a polished lip. The spoke "diamond cut" faces are in tidy condition but sides of spokes need to be repainted or sanded down then polished $900 firm for BS members
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BMW M approved Castrol Edge tws 10w 60 vs ...
Eagle replied to BreakMyWindow's topic in General Discussion
Quality modern engine oil in all but 20,000k changes on an M5, f**k that. -
Faded paint, rust, keyed and failed clearcoat to me point to a full exterior respray. Add the the rims and interior restore its wouldn't be cheap unless you could do all or most of the work yourself. Then you got engine, suspension and transmission which will probably need some love it one way or another, I like E34's but Id rather pay a few k more for a better one tbh
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Depends what you comparing it with and what skills\tools you have. Compared to a E39 its a leap forward in complexity. E39 aren't easy to work on compared to the older ones but the N62 engine looks terrible to work on if you had to fix the common failures. Suspension wise they shouldn't be much harder if any than E39 Id definitely want the BMW software package if i owned one.
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I doubt anything would be a direct fit
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Seems to be the average price asking price for respectable condition ones, usually includes the rears too and maybe door cards. BBS's on the car are in desperate of repair, i dont think ive seen wheel bolts that rusty.
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Yeah the mileage is nothing. Never owned a M30 under 300,000. Anything thing can be fixed for $, seats would set you back at least $500 + probably need recon of some sorts. IMO E34's are good cars to sink money into as good ones are increasing value and are fairly cheap to get up standard.
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Looks very reasonable for the price (needs those photos). No doubt you could sink a few more grand into the probably worn suspension etc but it should be a nice example after that Cloth seats (esp worn) and UK import don't do it for me personally. Id say the odo reading is in miles not km's
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Looks aside the E65 is worse to work on, much more to go wrong and still depreciating. Ive always maintained they cheap for a reason. Re: E38 M60 4L SWB would be my idea E38 from reliability\cost point of view
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Aftermarket or M5 swaybars?
