Eagle

Seems to be the average price asking price for respectable condition ones, usually includes the rears too and maybe door cards. BBS's on the car are in desperate of repair, i dont think ive seen wheel bolts that rusty.

Yeah the mileage is nothing. Never owned a M30 under 300,000. Anything thing can be fixed for $, seats would set you back at least $500 + probably need recon of some sorts. IMO E34's are good cars to sink money into as good ones are increasing value and are fairly cheap to get up standard.

Looks very reasonable for the price (needs those photos). No doubt you could sink a few more grand into the probably worn suspension etc but it should be a nice example after that Cloth seats (esp worn) and UK import don't do it for me personally. Id say the odo reading is in miles not km's

Looks aside the E65 is worse to work on, much more to go wrong and still depreciating. Ive always maintained they cheap for a reason. Re: E38 M60 4L SWB would be my idea E38 from reliability\cost point of view

Aftermarket or M5 swaybars?

Last Fuchs i got was ATF 3353 20L and was about ~$230 something. Non-trade

Yep Fuchs is my goto thru BNT also. Ive used Penrite stuff in a pinch.

Nice to see this again. If i had the parts id buy it and manual covert it in a heartbeat. If you want the washer warning gone just bridge the washer plug terminals with some wire, tape it up and tuck it away. Pointless warning anyway.

Lifeguard is specified for many ZF 5HP models (look it up). It probably made by Pentosin along with the BMW labeled stuff.

Technically the correct fluid is ZF Lifeguard 5. Most seem to put in some sort of Esso LT 71141 equivalent.

Just did my E39 with Penrite FS. Used 10L total with a 2nd drain after the filter change. Removing trans cooler lines looks a pita on E39 and something would probably break in the process.

The sedan probably had a jatco transmission hence the diff plugs. Id say you would have to swap out all the wiring related to jatco for the zf wiring, but i dont see anyone doing that tbh. Im sure Brent will chime in

Both my old ones would hit 110 in certain conditions. They do run hot for emissions sake. No idea about fan conditions but it doesn't seem abnormal to me.

Yeah BBS's look good. What rims and tyre specs you running on those other rims, they look a bit odd to my eye. Here my old E34 on 17" BBS RN's which are similar

Sure to be schematics with measurements online somewhere, ive seen them posted over the years on various forums.

Correct. Have you got a long 32mm spanner? I give it wack with a wood mallet and that usually gets it. I have the tool but only used it once or twice for real bad cases. I could send it but they can be fabricated next to nothing

Originally Beisan came up with the fix and documented it so i try to support guys like that, the seals have a proven track record also. Yeah if you doing the rattle kit also i does get a bit expensive but you may not technically need it. The X8R kit looks fine, i haven't done any research on it myself but if there's good feedback it shouldn't be a bad option

Probably do this soon myself. Id stick with Beisan kit and buy the other parts. Mine has no rattles when revved up at idle so i probably wont bother with the rattle kit (done 257,000)

High k's on an engine is no problem as people generally keep up with oil servicing with BMW's but the ad doesn't give me any confidence that things like suspension etc aren't worn in your typical BMW fashion Where the interiors photos at?

Applies to certain models and drivers Learning to drive Likes to deteriorate

Back when BMW engines bays were pleasing to look at

Yeah def replace both the rears at the same time but at those k's they the shocks should still operate well enough unless its had a hard life road wise. Leaving the fronts for some other time if $ is an issue wouldn't be so bad in this case. The fronts will cost about 2x as much as you are buying the whole strut housing + much longer to remove and install

Not bad pricing, Def Koni street over KYB How many k's has the car done?, are you doing them for a WOF? Should be able to tell if front shocks have been replaced or not. Shocks are ones of those things you really want to replace all at once if worn otherwise the rear end will tend to show up how bad the front is, vise versa.

OP says he wants to save money not spend more. Koni's = expensive (esp in NZ) and having them on the rear with some unknown front shocks isn't worth it.

Koni's are great and all but probably the worse choice in this case.