Yuen

Set of four BBS RC304 wheels. Very lightweight at 7.4kg each. Includes original BBS centre caps and emblems, and four sets of BBS valve stems and lug bolts. All parts are as new, except one wheel has a mark on the centre cap and scratches on one part of the wheel. I suspect the damage was from test mounting the wheel. There is no evidence of valves or tyres having been fitted on any of the wheels. Two of the wheels come in their original BBS boxes and two will come in aftermarket wheel boxes. Diameter: 17" Width: 8.0" Fitment: 5x120 Offset: ET38 Weight: 7.4kg (from here) Sold.

Sorry to hear, Peter. My condolences to you and your family.

Beautiful car, especially the interior - it looks so new. Good work with the clean undercarriage too!

Welcome - great looking M5 and cool plate.

Awesome!

Very sharp Ray.

Yes it needs to be replaced. The overflow nipple is not supposed to be separable from the expansion tank so it's broken. See pics here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5658749&postcount=8

Looks amazing - great work!

Pretty sure I've seen a couple of examples like this combo pop up closer to Auckland over the years, so you never know, one might pop up closer to home. I don't think the colour is Technoviolet, which is darker and closer to a black; this looks more like Mora Metallic. And I'm not sure the wheels are genuine BMW as described - they look like CSL reps.

M-Sport models will have black roof and pillar lining (instead of the standard grey), along with black grab handles, sun visors and interior lights.

Whoever brought that for there BMW mite end up a looser. Were good speller's hear at Bimmersport thats for shore.

Could be the DISA valve. Unplug the DISA connector and see if it goes away.

Wonder how those Kinforest tyres handle the power.

I had a look at this car last weekend as a potential swap for dad's E39 sedan, but he ultimately decided he wasn't comfortable getting one with that high KMs. Raymond's asked if I can put up a review. I've done so to the best of my memory. I have to make the disclaimer that you shouldn't place any reliance on my review in making your decision and it reflects my personal experience/opinions only. Ultimately you should have a good look at it yourself, but hopefully this helps anyone sitting on the fence about viewing. First thing I can confirm is that the pictures of the car are accurate. On my short drive (~2kms) I didn't notice anything that indicated the engine was tired. I started the car from cold, and the gearbox shifted fine and power delivery seemed ok. Upon discussion with Ray he did say the VANOS hadn't been done, so perhaps you will see gains if you replace the VANOS seals. I thought I felt a slight vibration at a certain speed which I wasn't able to replicate on the short drive, but Ray has confirmed that there is one and he was planning to replaced the wheel bearings next if he was keeping the car. Good points - Has the high cluster which is known to lose pixels, and on this car only one or two pixels were missing. - Has the 16:9 Sat Nav screen which is a plus if you plan to retrofit NZ nav - Decent tyres (Falken Ziex). Not staggered as standard on tourings (235/45/17 all around) - Headlights (factory HIDs) and fogs work - Sunroof works fine - Has undergone a fairly extensive service recently, which Ray has mentioned above. One of the things I noticed was the power steering reservoir cap was really clean, due to a new cap seal having been fitted. - All windows are original BMW which suggests they have not been replaced Cons/To dos - Coolant expansion tank currently tied on to broken fan shroud. The fan shroud is in a bad shape and you'd probably want to replace it. - Missing underpanel under radiator - At least one of the two guard liners needs to be replaced (i.e. the corner bits on the left and right of the underpanel). This is common for the E39. - Comes with one key only. The remote doesn't work and Ray mentioned this was after he replaced the battery some weeks ago, so perhaps it just needs to be re-initialised. - Doesn't come with any history aside from the one mentioned above (not uncommon for Japanese imports to not have history). From discussion with Ray, the previous business that owned the car was situated directly opposite Bavarian Motors and the business said they had it serviced there regularly. Ray has also done work on the car himself so I understand he can provide receipts for some of the parts. - Rubber seals all around (windshield, windows) are old and cracked. On the other hand this implies they are original. Other observations - Colour is Titansilber - Air filter is a Simota panel filter (blue in colour) - Interior lamps and license plate light changed to white LEDs. The license plate lights have thrown a code on the cluster (which I understand is due to the different resistance) - Interior is a little dirty - in particular, the alcantara appeared to have some stains (fairly subtle though). I suspect if you were willing to take the interior out for a good wash or steam clean it would come up well. - Wear on steering wheel appears consistent with KMs. The leather has gone smooth in places but is not torn and still looks decent. - The slat in the front bumper is not the body colour as it usually is on E39s - Towbar is bent upwards a little - as Ray said it may mean someone hit the back bumper in the past, but there are no obvious signs of any previous damage. - Passenger side mirror not original. It actually looks fine but I only picked it up because it wasn't the same as the driver's side glass - Spare is the same as the other wheels (M-Sport type), with a Pirelli tyre. Overall, my feeling was that it was a pretty honest car, and if you can accept the KMs and the to-dos above, it's definitely worth a look. Ray, feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong.

Congratulations on getting your dream car! It looks like a great example. Is it just me or does the colour seem to change a fair bit under different lighting? It looks dark in your pics but lighter in the auction pics.

Not sure how you can get back to the thread, but from memory, this is how I replaced mine: - Remove the panel under the steering wheel (one screw under headlight switch, another on the left around the indicator stalk, and at least one more underneath IIRC). - The microfilter is located behind the centre console (kinda behind the OBC). You'll see a round knob which you can turn and the cover will come right off. - Before you pull the old microfilter out, note how deep it sits inside the hole as it can be confusing how far in you need to push the new microfilter. This is also a good time to stick the vacuum cleaner in there and give it a good clean. - Install the new microfilter. You'll have to snap the new one where the plastic snap joints are to get it in, and it takes a bit of wiggling. You'll know you've got it in deep enough if the cover goes on and locks easily. Hope that helps. Btw, I find the best position to install it in is to be lying upside down in the driver's seat (with your head in the footwell).

Nice work Martin, especially with the leather. Funny about the dead mouse!

Have a good one Ashkan

Looks like you've taken very good care of it, it looks great. Good photography too.

Love the car Tristan. I'd seen that on TradeMe as well, glad to see it's gone to a good owner. Hope to see it in the flesh sometime.

Love the trophies shot!

Yeah. WOW. All of them look stock which is impressive. Wondering if some owners might have returned them to stock for this event?

Welcome - car looks smart, nice colour and manual too.

Welcome

Are you sure? I've replaced the adjusters in angel eyes headlights before and had done some research before buying the parts. It's a long time ago now but IIRC the adjusters for pre-facelift looks quite different to the facelift ones. Allanw, thanks for the link. Have also heard this is possible but always thought it was in the too hard basket given the clearance from the back. Have you done it before? Jordy - would suggest you do the baking method and not heat gun, to avoid melting the plastic. I actually did it with a hair dryer as I worked along the glass, slowly prying it apart (this was on an 01 where they use the sticky black goo). Also, you might want to make sure you retain as much of the goo as possible for reassembly, otherwise you can end up with moisture leaks etc. I've never tried this on later model headlights but you'll find on the internet that people say some are impossible to take apart, which you then have to use the method Allanw posted.