No name user
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Everything posted by No name user
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my customer tried using the war chip and gave up it was on a m20b25 race car it just wonted do the job to hit and miss for what was gained their now putting in a mapecu ill know tonight how it came out
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theres one or 10 kicking around in my workshop
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none of it will be seen or even heard so pretty stealth i would say
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theres room if you moved it further up as i did mind you mine is in a e34
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sounds like a fantastic fairy tail for whoever the tuner was
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+1 for andrews post could add more but im not going to compete with keyboard jockeys but for the record you cant reduce pressure to turbo you reduce volume and seals dont blow any issues in that department is the end result of other things going wrong, and its lunch time
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nice work dude
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its also not legal for circuit and ltsa
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i have one off my customers in cromwell about to tune a bmw with the same setup be interesting to see what he thinks
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what do you think the total cost will be once done and dyno time?
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m20 cam position sensor
No name user replied to nipe's topic in Forced Induction & Performance Tuning
what ecu are you using? does it need a analog or digital signal? i make the base plat inside adjustable which makes it easy to put where is needed most ecus only require a signal 60 deg or before TDC thus you don't have to be to accurate to where it sits you can use a pickup from a dizzy like a honda or a ford very small go pick a part costs bugger all -
love v band clamps on exhausts make life some much easier
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m20 cam position sensor
No name user replied to nipe's topic in Forced Induction & Performance Tuning
ask if anyone on here has a dizzy off a m20 and mod that make things alot easier -
m20 cam position sensor
No name user replied to nipe's topic in Forced Induction & Performance Tuning
forgot about that one also alot easier to do -
m20 cam position sensor
No name user replied to nipe's topic in Forced Induction & Performance Tuning
i gather your trying to do a tdc sync? you can make a pickup under the rotor inside the disy cap or mount one thru the rocker cover pointing at the cam neither are a five minute job. -
agree im not anti n/a just for of power even 2psi makes a massive difference and when it comes your Honda especially vetec outstanding good engines the first motors in the world for a production car to make over 100hp per liter 91 civic i think was 170hp? there about
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Knowledge and wallet that decides what your going to do, the stainless Chinese manifolds work fine with some hand work the cracking has a lot to do with what you hang off it including no flexi in the system even a steam pipe manifold cracks in fact even factory cast turbo manifolds crack all manifolds crack at some point in their lives. Stainless has down falls it doesnt retain heat well something that makes turbos more responsive its mainly used when running race gas or alky based fuels as it does corrode and flake m/s can also work well in the same situations provided its coated inside also cheaper to make purging isnt needed. T3/4 means nothing its just the frame size it has no reflection to what it actually does theres more than 2500 combos you can have and their going up in cost, ball bearing turbos are alot more expensive cant be rebuilt ( well i do but i manufactor my own parts ) they are also only 5% more responsive than a plain bearing again a myth for those buying them, as for reading maps again they are dependent on what turbine and housing size is driving it useless info for most the sizing should be left up to those who do so for a living yes there generic turbos that work but as yourve pointed out far from ideal. As for aftermarket ecu yes you can get some cheaper units but you still have to install so a good knowledge base on car electronics is a must or a mate that wont screw it up then you need to know how to drive it and tune which theres a tad more to it than a wideband a good knock monitor then understanding the engine characteristics from compression and sorry but boost has a big reflection on the effective comp ratio and its effect on the fuels BTU's to how hard you can lean on it and running rich isnt always a smart idea it may help cool charge air temps but can induce detonation again its a knowledge thing, tuning is black art not a science you either know how to do it or dont and reading countless books doesnt help every car is different from the next if it was a science how come dynos tuners get differant results from each other or are they screwing with the TCF factor to make themselves look good? thats another topic again. You mentioned your honda to running all the bells and whistles and stock ecu cant? Not true Hondata do a plug in for most model hondas covering all the toys and some plus an Apexi power fc is also a plug in and if covers your model can be picked up for well under 1k in regards to injector sizes you MUST HAVE a fuel system that will support your power levels regardless road or race delivering "x" amount of ltrs per min, ive have plenty of customers running big hp setup road cars running 1200cc plus injectors that have better drivability and idle than stock due to injector design as for economy? dont expect to get 40 mpg from a 800hp toy for that i will say its hard to bet a honda for a work hack there great for that atleast. The topic off n/a versus turbo or two versus four valve many things come into that equation its not hard to double a n/a power output with 10psi of boost but to achieve the same n/a is an expensive exercise thus two valve with a turbo reving to 6k like a m20b25 isnt an issue in fact makes for a friendly car to drive you don't need massive cams and head porting( mind you they do help ) nor does it need to be revved within an inch of its life to make the power plus the torque gain from a turbo is far greater than a n/a unless you start going to bigger displacement, like most things its a personal choose to what you want and how you go about it each to their own again your wallet decides what your going to do or you wouldn't have brought a MS or the link at a budget price to start with, what i put up for doing a basic turbo m20b25 falls well within someones budget to have some fun its not a race car but will put a smile on there face and theyll learn some skills along the way and thats not a bad thing youll have to admit BMW's are cheap to buy and play with so whats the harm lifes short do what makes you happy.
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+1 the end result of any job is the ability to make all aspects to work in harmony
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cheers dude ive just got to double check something regarding its inputs to see if itll do what im after hopefully it does
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sorry i havent read all the posts is it a couple? im after some door cards
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can you put up a pic please
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couple turbos wouldn't hurt either
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Get some certified brake lines as in braided new disc's get them slotted i can help there and some hawk race pads off ebay a ton cheaper than here even with the postage ive brought a few sets in now they work great plus some good fluid but again as its been pointed out theres many ways to doing things and for most its your wallet that controls what you do and hate to say it but around here its also a mind set that stops many. Now if you wanted a big horse power setup i can give a shopping list on that also and for those reading this there's a good reason why people like Slatter and Delmount go so well they listen cause the more you talk the less you learn. You can make reasonable power doing n/a but itll cost you more and you'll never make the same torque or endless topend from it than going forced induction each to their own.
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the main thing it comes down to you have to know what your doing even with a stand alone you can still screw it up setting safety limits on things even n/a you can still get it wrong you need to go back though time ( im showing my age here ) but all we had to deal with was bolt on's using stock ecu in fact many turbo jap cars came out stock turbo with a AFM ( no speed density )ive pushed stock ecu's way past 3x their stock power levels and never had an issue. The mapecu for a piggy back is sold all round the world including cars like the R35 gtr to which no aftermarket ecu can allow the car to run all its functions and still make power this fits the bill nicely, ive tuned many types of aftermarket ecu's in the last 30 years the reason ive done the piggy back is most say "you cant do that" and i love proving them wrong my little m42 makes 270hp and a daily driver/work hack isnt treated well even from a new motor now done 3500km runs great. A history would show it companies like Apexi,Trust, HKS etc made lots of wire in units for trubing n/a in fact the worlds quickest HKS GTR at the time used a stock ecu with wire on goodies and for those who dont know ran 7's for the 1/4 mile, adding fuel and changing timing isnt a hard thing to do if you know how and thats the key to making it work. Now do keep this in mind theres a ton of people out there with little money and want to play thus as yourve stated running a few pounds boost isnt an issue they dont want a 5000hp toy they know what it costs and are more than happy doing it how they can afford it, thats what the country is known for DIY and that gets my interest more than a big dollar build i do those every day but people that can think outside the square get my attention. Peoples attitude towards things is what brings success not a mind set ! and prof of what they can do and i can give a very long list for that one In saying that is it a case of "you cant do that" or the person just doesn't know what their doing? my answer spend less time trolling the net and get out into the real world.