No name user

seriously the best mod you can do is......non do some more over time and do the job right!!! want 200hp easily? no such thing or maybe a 100hp hit of NOS at close to $300 for bottle fill and on an engine unkown? save your money and heart ache take note of whats being told youll be better off in the long run, and have money to maintain it.

cheers for the nice words guys and im not going anywhere but am looking forward to playing show and tell with the e34 its all coming along well and with the dumby up m50 it not longer idles under 1500 youll know when i turn up to bmw meet. back to topic the best answer i can give for the m20 is how much money do you have to spend NOT what you might have later this is an easy way to point you rather than a long shopping list, m20 is good motor even the turbo ones ive done they just crack under the cam towers if you get too carried away. ps: sorry for all the BS cheers steve

ah dude you should read what you write telling me to go troll a honda forum, i wont bother telling you who i am or what i do but on the salt flats to which ive been to a carb would work the same for wide open throttle as for my ability to tune? yep all those records my setups have done local and world in the last 25yrs were just good luck, and yes the thread was about what to do for a m20 but twas you saying afm and remapping was a waste of time and since you could only afford 1 hour on dyno then the rest is just hear say and dont pm me ive already wasted enough time talking to you.

oh gifted one IF there was a restriction then yes but since many use it and they work very well and since were only talking about a engine that makes the better part of 120hp i realy dought theres a problem and ive done may setups in last 25years that make a lot more hp than that with a afm and hondas run speed density dork. i would say the head/cam/throttle body would back things up more than the afm, as for your mega squirt the ones ive tuned dont hold a/f well the tune constantly changes day to day but you get what you pay for. as for the e30 class the remapping regardless works well and very reliable tell ya what you go run your weapon against them and lests see how great thou are.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol yep remapping is a waste of time......thats why most do it( every person in the e30 class) and since you have some idea of how things work why would you bother with a crappy pod filter, what yourve listed isnt straight forward or that cheap.

yep 100% agree and stock airbox theres good reason why they are so big, if the pod filter was so good it would have been in there from stock.

ok my 5c worth the lexus v8 is somewhat over rated but as for being weak? ah no ive done many turbo 1uz over the years the last was in a 84 ex lancer my spec turbo stock eng made 350kw wheel on 14psi and never had the heads off and been like that for a few years now. if you want to push more then i suggest and built engine apart from that cant see an issue,ones that do turn to custard are more related to poor setups or lack of know how or the best one of all "cause my mate said so" yep solid advise. i would have to say forced induction on the 1uz is alot safe than the bmw v8 for reliability.

things to consider, itll take about 40hp off which ever motor you chose to run to make 10psi@12000 rpm blower speed you should never ever use water alky injection to compinsate for a poor setup, yes it helps but should never relie on it you may see 200kw from it ( based on setups ive done anyway) the m112 would be a better pick. if its just for shits and giggles they work fine but it wont compare to your turbo setup you did, as for engine the m30 since they dont rev to much past 6k.

+1 for the keeping it bmw and that being the m30b35 tons of low down torque, and going jap 2jz end of story ive pulled 750hp out of them without pulling a head off 1uz is over rated and no low down many of my customers pulled them out and used a 350 chev or the q45 nissan way better engine and a true twin cam. Built a twin turbo setup for a jet sprint boat using the q45 made 900hp and 800lf/lb on 6 psi thatll get ya drifter going.

agree ive done many n/a and turbo setups using 91 without an issue

my 89 e34 took the same braided lines as a e36 and are LTSA stamped no cert needed try trademe

far out whats the volume of the intake manifold? alot more than 4 ltrs i would say

m40 is coming out of my e36 m42 going in i made the manifold intake and stainless exhaust headers, stock ecu using a MAP3 to remove afm and control ignition and fuel with boost control and launch control and auto tune for base tune.

m42 JE 8.5/1 comp evo pistons, H beam rods, acl race bearings, cap screwed mains, cap screwed head bolts, modded oil pump, disy cap conversion,m50 throtlle body,510cc injectors,4ltr plenium, formed trumpets,block has been ground threw out to remove all cast finish,turbo kkk27/26 46mm gate. oil feed off filter housing return goes into front timing cover.

im doing the same conversion i did to my m50 and the only wiring to do was extend a few to reach certain sensors, itll be alot easier if i post a pic of the engine on the stand then ill tell whats in it

Unless info: first off ive just finished building a m42 turbo to replace my m40b18 using the same ecu and wiring yep a single coil m42.( post pics but no one seems to understand) Anyway m40 breaks belts the same reason as every other one does, lack of changing or maintance. Turbo m40 using a j pipe setup on a stock motor and reflash ecu is an easy 200hp not very high power in my books but would improve your ride big time and its the torque that makes the differance.

thankyou very much for the kind words unfortunatly most of the time im up against it thus it all falls on deaf ears, still nothing like having a new hole ripped in you when it all turns pear shape dispite others trying to point them in the right direction expencive entertainment

not quit sure where your realy want to go with this but this is what im doing, im using the m50b25 with a very large turbo straight forward to do without fitting a bunch of stuff like retro fitting another engine eg rb25 etc. im going for a 4 digit motor but that doesnt come cheap but the stock m50b25 will do 450hp without taking the head off easy power great engine. if your serious about what you want to do ill help but you need to make your mind up which way you want to go.

h and i was thinking the other night is it possible to build a m50b28 turbo engine and wire it up with a rb25det ecu and loom and then i theory you'll have a BMW turbo engine with no need to tune just turn up the boost and go??god my mind wonders sometimes.. nice thought compression between the two is differant so youll need to tune regardless, and you cant reflash a rb25 ecu you would use a rb20, you can retro fit a cam trigger as ive done on my m50 works great did post pics but was a waste of time doing so on here.

hay ray, ill post them tomorrow

kent at speedspource warkworth gary capper at possums puke sichi hytech mt wellington andy xtune northshore

Roots blowers were never very efficent to start with and around 50% at the best of times thus the heat generated comes from the gears and the mass of the unit makes a great heat sink. Screw blowers are very efficent thus thats what used on top fuel but dont come cheap, top fuel making 8000hp is using 1000hp plus just to run the blower, heat isnt an issue running alky/nitro and they only run for short duration.

again thats based on many things including cam timing if you run more overlap you reduce boost

that is true but you still have to displace enough volume to support the engines need, you can spin it as hard as you like but if you dont have enough cfm it just makes the boost gauage look cool thus why all blowers like turbos come with different cfm ratings, that make more sence? undersized blowers react by producing less boost thus peoples react by cranking the input speed producing nothing but hot air and no a cooler doesnt fix that issue, a m90 would be a better match for the engines displacement. my statment regarding the pulley size was more directed to the life of the blower.

I dont know why i bother to help at times cause i dont know crap but for those who might pay attention one of the reason its running low psi is the blowers displacement is too small for the motor as would be the sc14 but im sure it wont stop you trying it. If you start trying to spin it harder then enjoy rebuilding blower and motor, max psi based on pulley size even on the 4age was 11psi before over speed and that my friend was 1600cc have fun