Neal

Been looking at the next possible retrofits. Looked into adding a Heads up display which looked straight forward on the M3 as the cluster will run one. But it turns out that that my windscreen installed doesn’t have correct layers of film for HUD. Apparently F3x and F8x can have one of 3 windscreen depending on if it has Kafas camera , light/ rain and HUD. If I’d installed one the hud image on current screen would show a ghosted or double image. If I need to replace the windscreen at any stage I’ll pay the difference and get one that supports all options. I’m looking to do two retrofits. One will be a centre speaker to the dash so I can learn more about doing a multi seat dsp tunes and anchoring the centre of the stage to the dash when I have the family in the car. Putting some thought into mounting the tweeter on top of a speaker grill and have it more on axis rather than having the treble sound defused bouncing off the windscreen similar to BMW B&O centre grill. This will involve cutting the dash to mount a grill and exposing the factory speaker mounting points underneath. Cutting templates can be found online and it looks straight forward. I’ll also need to run new speaker wires from dashboard to my MObridge amplifier and repurpose the subwoofer channel and configure it for centre channel. Then install either my sub amplifier leftover from my e46 m3 system or get a new subwoofer amp that is more space friendly for the install. I’ll use the same focal es100k speakers for centre channel to timbre match the rest. This will run passive crossover as I only have one amplifier channel to allocate. The second is 5DL 360 surround cameras. Currently I have 3ag rear camera and parking assist PDC. Retrofit will involve adding cameras to side mirrors and the sides of the front bumpers and the 5dl camera looms to doors and front bumpers. I’ll use a combo of new retrofit loom and mirror camera mount mirror plates and buy second hand bumper and mirror cameras. Car will then be coded with vehicle option 5DL. I’ve started by getting a camera module which looks like it will be the cheapest part of the install. The camera prices seem to be all over the place so will buy these when the opportunity comes up.

There are phone apps that will work out the code based on units serial number or online service that will do the same. eg https://play.google.com/store/apps/dev?id=4797224868258853173&hl=en_NZ

With the csl widths the other ones I considered as Bridgestone Re71 and Yoko ad08 with has been superseded by the ad09 . These are street legal semi-slicks that don’t mind wet days.. They are higher dry grip option. Best tyre combo I had on e46 m3 was the Bridgestone re11. Really good on driver days on the track and better than the PSS and PS4S I ran after. Re11 were replaced by re71s. Only issue was with Bridgestone nz it was going to be an order and wait process so I went with another set of PS4s. I briefly had ps5 on the front of the f80. They are a bit smoother and quieter than PS4s with a nice steering response. A bit less road feel. Didn’t get to explore front end grip though.

I used to run 235/40r18 and 265/35r18 ps4s on my e46 m3. Would get mine via tire rack.com and brought about 4 sets of tyres for the e46 from them. Prices imported were similar to nz prices. I think I just needed to register for importing goods more than $1k. It’s a good alround combo. Hardly ever got traction light flashing. Found the rears would last no more than 40,000 kms. scroll down to ps4s. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=13489&frontWidth=235/&frontRatio=40&frontDiameter=18&rearWidth=265/&rearRatio=35&rearDiameter=18&performance=ALL

Drove from Wgtn to Auckland for one of those Dyno days. Great fun ! ( e46 m3 day ) Would be interested is seeing how an s55 with stock and GTS tunes does 😀

Thats looking great !

Lower pressure could also be a result of the 90s e30 cap recall. There was concerns around pressure build up and scolding an unsuspecting owner.This one was for m20s and I remember being sent a new cap for my 84 323i https://bmwtechinfo.bmwgroup.com/sib_attachments/B170293.pdf and https://charm.li/BMW/1984/318i (E30) L4-1766cc 1.8L SOHC (M10)/Repair and Diagnosis/Technical Service Bulletins/All Technical Service Bulletins/Recall - Coolant System Overheating/

Probably a 20 -30k install in its day. Looking like Alpine F1 components, IE scanspeak made speakers. Seen those at $1200 usd a pair second hand not that long ago. That system is very much top end alpine stuff from the day. Other than the soft top , great platform of excellent 3 way front stage. Still has kick panel mid bass position which is great compared with door locations.

Speaking of 80s still have some Alpine gear. Few amps and equalisers from my e21 install circa 88. And have this set which is NIB from early 80s

Almost , but air intake to low on those. Needs to be a e90 m3 with bonnet level intakes to make it through that

M2 looks great with the M decals.Welcome to s55 ownership! Neither thought you’d replace the e36!

Cool fix to sort rattles. Also good on door card clip mounts 😀

There’s also the odd single din unit with carplay / android auto. At the pricey there is the Porsche high end single din , at the other end there are a number of headless CP AA units on AliExpress

Very cool and welcome. F80 is phenomenal car… but I might be a bit biased on that 😀

Not so sure about that one , same challenge with my cruise control with mine also having a UK VO. All roads lead to a replacement cluster. Got to remember setting it for 62 mph rather than 100 😀 But it would certainly solve the default Map location as well rather than asking dealer for a manual download of NZ/Aus. Also stop BMW UK dealers asking if I’d like to have car serviced.

On the Speed Limit Detection retrofit using the process earlier my car has since been in for a service in the last week. As a result the 8TH option is now showing as an official factory option. I did a online BMW vin lookup today so no chance of it being wiped during any future servicing 😀

Great you see the positive out of it with how the medical team worked to stabilise you. There are some phenomenal people that fix us up when we get broken. One of those life events, happy to have survived …. But fu$k, that was a bit close. Speedy and progressive recovery.

Know what you mean with small bikes. Wife had a bucket bike when I met her. Basically a cheap low cc bike for organised car park racing. Don’t need to be doing 737 take off speeds to have a good time 😀

Other way round do it is to get something like an AVSS type thin walled high temp insulated wire and twist it together. It won’t take up as much room in the door connector garter. It was a tight fit from what I remembered . eg. Automotive Wires AVSS 24 22 20 18 16 14 13AWG Speaker Audio Cable OFC Oxygen-free Copper Thin PVC Insulation Car Wire https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0jAYWX

I think so , was a Jaycar speaker wire. 79x 0.2 strand.

Your thinking and logic is good. I have my 8s doing most of the bass range as they do it well and articulate the bass lines nicely with a reasonable amount of authority.

Your thinking and logic is good. I have my 8s doing most of the bass range as they do it well and articulate the bass lines nicely with a reasonable amount of authority.

That’s looking good. Good combo of specs and ideal sealed box sub. 11mm one way xmax spec good too. If you compare to the focal that one really wants to be in an infinite baffle set up rather than a sealed box. With the dual voice coils you could go the other way with a 1 ohm parallel load depending on sub amplifier. More recently there seems to be a number of class D amps that are 1ohm stable. You just do the old I R / V ohms law and work out maximum current and then wire gauge that’s suited. But I suspect 2mm2 will be more than large enough at your target power levels. With the depth also allow room for the rear vent. If the gap is too small the sub won’t preform as well as it could. Think of it as additional spring loading if it’s too close to the back wall. One trick you can do with the enclosure is to stuff it. Has the effect of making the enclosure 20% larger to the sub if you are tight on volume. If you can fit it looking like an excellent choice. At the high end price wise ( JL audio ) I’d skip that and use a stereo integrity bm11 . Similar box size requirements and shallow depth. Bass wouldn’t be as tight as alpine but can go down to 20hz with 0.4 box and 3 inch depth.

See if you can find one with a qtc of around 0.5 which in a sealed box should be around 0.7 qts . Best combo of response and low end imho. Cabin gain will help bring up the sub bass region below 50hz can be anywhere between +6 - +10 db. Your plan for back corner are ideal as usually will play +3db louder than other locations . Important when running an 8. With QTS value if you haven’t already picked up on it a value of 0.5 is very tight bass but not so good on extension , 0.7 considered the best combo of rhythm and low end extension. 1.0 and above is considered boomy and flabby bass, but ok for hip hop genre where the overhang can work quite well. There is quite a good online simulator for TS modelling of speaker response for a given speaker Loudspeaker database. And cabin gain can be modelled via a tab in REW if your interested In going that far.https://www.roomeqwizard.com/ Edit, had forgotten about winSD modelling software, worth a look. https://www.subwoofer-builder.com/WinISD.htm

Score, Decent poly capacitor on the tweeter and good power handling, tweeter on a gimbal so you can align them better in relation to front. .Looks like a quality coaxial speaker.