Neal

I wonder if the conversion it would detract the driving experience a bit. DCT is a bit more refined from SMG so you don’t get those brutal power shifts when you’re fanging it or the ability to manually blip throttle on down shift. Noticed this going from e46 M3 smg to f80 m3 dct. I thought the smg was a bit more fun.

Mate brought one of these. Best part of $240k . Remember getting a drive. These hide their weight and amazingly quick. 550 plus hp for that price ! GLWS.

Welcome Have a turbo six, although probably can’t offer any advice on the mod front. Have a cheater exhaust system which makes more noise when the exhaust flaps bypass part of the rear muffler. But to me it doesn’t sound great from the drivers seat in that mode. Owned a few of these over the years . Might be 37 years or so with BMWs. Roughly 800,000 kms of smiles ( mainly ) .Guessing this is a long way towards addiction.

Have a look at MHD or BM3 apps for tuning and have a read though on how they work. The initial flash is done via phone / wifi dongle and these ones are a bit more reputable than others. https://mhdtuning.com/products/mhd-super-license-for-n13 https://bootmod3tuning.com/f2x-f3x

Used mainly factory oil change intervals for the last 38 years of BMW ownership.When sold the engines had done anything from 180,000 , couple in the 220,000 and one was still going strong at 330,000 kms. Must be other things going on with that article. Just saying. https://amp.theguardian.com/technology/2009/oct/25/bmw-325-million-mile-motor

NZ launch happening soon. Looking forward to seeing it soon. I guess the approach does help BMW with EU co2 reduction and main target audience gets a tax offset for lease due to it being a phev. I guess it’s just a finger in the air by BMW with green washing a petrol performance vehicle. 1000 nm isn’t going to notice the weight 😀.

On the usb front a moved the car cradle usb connection and replaced the keyed blue plastic with a black one. Tried the USB C adapter off the back of idrive USB 2 . But not working. I haven’t added the +12 Ve and ground connector yet, need to run a power feed from the rear fuse box by the look of it. I also tried the passive white USB adapter and the USB audio came up on iPhone 13. But couldn’t get the iPhone 16 to work via it. I’ll run the power and earth wires for the USBc adapter and try again , but suspect there’s something up with idrive and usb c based iPhones.

The app is hosted out of Florida apparently, Might be in DR mode at the moment.

That should be a nice sounding solution. Would give an amazing front stage. Only thing to check on crossover point is how low they would go in a sealed pod. Looking like they are well suited to IB mounts going by the QTS value ( stiffer cone suspension) in a sealed enclosure they may peak higher hz spl wise , but struggle a bit to get down to 200 hertz. See is you’ve got an option to vent the back into the front pillar trim. Otherwise you can model the response of the wide bands using this software. https://www.subwoofer-builder.com/WinISD.htm

Well, you’re started with setting a high bar 😀. We’ll expect nothing less than excellence !

Excellent paint. Build thread coming ?

On the BMW USB C adaptor front I'm now a self taught expert haha So they can be run in four different modes Connected to USB 2 on idrive just via HSD cable ( provides idrive change rate .5amps or 5 watts) Connected to USB 2 on idrive, HSD cable , 12volt feed from fuse 129 via 0.85mm2 cable ( provides 3 amps , 15 watts ) Connected to Optional BMW USB hub, via thicker HSD cable with 0.5mm2 wires inside ( Provides 2.1 amps or 12 watts of charging ) Connected to Optional USB hub , 12 volt feed from spare fuse position on 0.85mm2 ( provides 3 amps , 15 watts ) There is also a built in back light for the USB C , so I'll feed it from a piggy back connection from Armrest console light. Just planning on option 2 for now. My plan, run new 0.85mm2 wire from Fuse 129 in boot fusebox to armrest position. Run new 0.85mm2 earth wire from Armrest to an earth combe behind left passenger set bolster. Run spare wire 0.5mm2 wire and earth to fuse box similar to above to give USB hub options Run 1.5mm2 wire from spare position fuse box position to armrest for 12volt accessory point , same size wire from for earth to factory earth point. Need to find wire with Red with black stripe 085.mm2 for factory colour Brown 0.85mm2 cable for standard negative earth colour And 12volt accessory wire as I did for boot outlet.

Great that you managed to sort firmware, some PCs just don’t like serial connection over usb drivers. No doubt you are liking the impact from powering up the underseat positions.

NZ runs a British Standard for allowable area of puncture repairs. Have a look at the T section in this web page. .https://btmauk.com/advice-about-tyres/tyre-industry-professionals/

Finished the usb c mount . Cut up part of the trim that came with the adapter and made an insert out of it. Didnt like my chances of cutting a countersunk rectangle into the aux / usb trim. I did find that in that position the usb c plus HSB cable was hard up against the hand brake bracket. Swapped the positions of the adapters around as the old usb / aux doesnt need the same depth. Thinking I’ll stop with this combo and not install a hub for third USB port off idrive. Wiring wise need to sort a BMW HSD cable and will connect to the USB connection point feeding the snap in adapter. Need to make up a small loom for the fast charging connector on the usb c . Needs a 12volt Ve+ from terminal 30b , a ground connection and a interior light feed extended from the armrest bunker light.

Parts arrived today. Will change location as not enough room to mount USB adapter into back of armrest. Would require too much plastic to be removed around the armrest hinge area. I also tried the usb adapter into where the console light fitting . Didn’t go far enough back depth wise. I’ve also abandoned the idea of putting a usb extension into the back seat console freash air area. Think I’ll stop with a 12 volt outlet. I think this will be plan B location. Looks like it will fit

So a couple of things. AA should have registered the new battery with the car. But also the car would have needed the correct charging profile for a no agm battery . Basically a recode of battery type should have been done. If it hasn’t been done already check the negative battery lead. It has a IBS terminal that will disconnect the battery in an accident , over current etc. Quick way to check is to put a multi meter on the negative terminal and a ground point on the negative lead. You should see almost no resistance when using ohms setting on multimeter. Overview of IBS https://bimmerscan.com/bmw-intelligent-battery-sensor-ibs/#:~:text=The BMW Intelligent Battery Sensor,to the negative battery terminal.&text=The IBS contains a micro,measurement from B%2B to Gnd

@kwhelan Thanks for the heads up on USB C charging specs , better understanding now , I didn't realize it supported different voltages. eg , 5 - 20 volts. Makes sense as 65 watts over 5 volts would need thicker cable compared with 20 volts at 3 amps. Will stick with the BMW USB C 5 volt variant. Otherwise if wanted fast charge something like this would be good to hide away and just add pannel insert. Could be an option for rear passenger device charging though. https://www.edecoa.com/featured/newly-arrival-5kv-solar-inverter-100w-12v24v-usb-c-car-laptop-charger-universal-65w-pd-3-0-type-c-laptop-adapter-dual-2-4a-usb-qc-3-0-fast-charging-for-phone-tablet-edecoa-4.html

On the charging front I thought I’d stick with wired so I’d have data / audio / charging. It also gives me the option to turn off appleplay if I’m after a higher quality audio stream from the phone via USB. Notice the wifi transcoding for CarPlay over wifi smears the treble a bit using Spotify / Apple Music. BMW didn’t implement usb CarPlay. Thanks for the heads up on the cable chip. I’ll thinking of using a USB 90 degree male to straight male for the snap in adapter mod. I’m using a iPhone6 snap in adapters and modded the dock area a while back to take a larger iPhone. I’ll make sure it can support the 15 watts available from the BMW USB c. Good point on the rear outlet. Current there is no 12 volt points in the back . Was thinking for phone charging and.audio Do have a Plugin usb c 40 watt charger in the SUV for tablet. Could add a 12v point in rear. Also noticed that 7 / x7 series have a USB / tablet bracket and trim built into rear seats. But don’t think I could do that to the M3 seats.

Those focal isubs are quite efficient so you may get away with 35 rms. But personally I like the sound of 80 rms as you’d get nice clean peaks to 160 watts. Also remember the focals have a long term power rating of 90 rms so you won’t push them to distructive limits. 35 rms on the 4 inch door speakers is plenty. Audsion should have nice clean amplification.

The nice thing about usb is backwards compatible so it’s 4 wire data connection should work of the hub or off USB 2 on evo. My plan is to use the usb c off usb 2 and possibly the regular usb off a hub for back seat use ( daughters phone when in charge of playlists 😀) I’ve added the FDL coding for a hub when I was trying to get usb 2 working after the ID6 retrofit. Found the issue to be a different USB FDL but left it configured. Was looking at the console area behind the snap in base area and there looks like it could be mounted in the same manner as the console bunker light. Also thinking of modding the iPhone snapin adapter connector from lightning to USB C so I still get the benefit of docking new usbc iphone. Would still get the benefits of the aerial boost from its amplified passive aerial in the snap in and the cooling fan. For the power NBT USB ports has 2.1 amps of total charging but the USBc adapter also has +12ve and light pin. On the G series it looks like they can use a power feed from the Fem module which no doubt can turn off for parasitic drain. But this gives 3 amps of charging if used. So just working out where to augment the power from. Last resort will be a spare switched unused position in rear fuse box. Or maybe divert power from snap in plate. Let us know what you were thinking for powering the usb hub . Not sure if the area is pre wired for the blue connector. This is what I’m think of for mounting position. It might need a custom 90 degree farka connector for depth but not sure at this stage.

Next small project, IPhone 13 user so pre empting new model next month. Need to change from BMW iPhone Snapin lightning to USB C for lossless audio / bmw apps / phone charging duties. Going to use a usb c adapter from a G12 7 series and install in console and connect into a snapin port on Idrive. Will add power and light circuit . Should give 3 amps / 15 watts of charging.

Those V12 jags a few years earlier sounded awesome. That and the ACS group A e30 M3s

Did the retrofit for Speed Limit Information and used the earlier YouTube video process to insert the BMW enablement certificate ( FSC ). Using the BMW cert and vehicle option code will mean it won’t get turned off with any BMW dealer software updates. I ordered the Kafas2 / connected idrive camera FSC certificate via Part no for SLI Kafas2 Camera 66502444948 . Basically put your vin number into the Fahrgestellnummer field. Got an email a day later with a BMW issued FSC. Cost was $75 nzd via PayPal. Vehicle Order ( VO ) was updated via Bimmer utility and it coded the Kafas2 camera , Digital Dash and Idrive. ( thanks @Dogballs ) Then injected the SLI FCS into camera ecu via esys. Then a simple case of enabling it in Idrive setting. Went for a drive and seems to be working ok. Only thing I might change is the FLD coding option under NBT where you can change the SLI country option. Will see what other signs it picks up. The good thing was it’s displaying the speed limit value in Kmh rather than miles.

Man that sucks , damage + insurance delays + overseas order. BMW slow at the moment . My BMW f80 parts took 6 weeks for some items recently.